Remote wire from cd player has no power?

rjay
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I have a Kenwood KDC-MP435U cd player. I've had it for about 4 years and just recently my sub/amp stopped working. I've narrowed it down to the remote wire not having any power to kick the amp on. The remote wire does put out enough power to kick on the light on the tester, correct? Because I connected to the remote wire coming out of the deck and got nothing. How likely does that part of the cd player go bad? Everything else on the unit works fine. Any thoughts or suggestions?

 
Test lights are not appropriate for car electronics. You need a digital multi-meter (DMM) to read voltage.

If the remote output has failed, the head unit is damaged. Some have an inline fuse. Verify yours.

 
Test lights are not appropriate for car electronics. You need a digital multi-meter (DMM) to read voltage.
If the remote output has failed, the head unit is damaged. Some have an inline fuse. Verify yours.
I like you, no ****. Always see you being helpful and answering questions. Thanks

 
Okay just got around to foolin with it again. I jumped it from the pos wire it the amp comes on and works. So does that mean its the HU issue? Also the amp I have is a Kicker ZX300.1. Maybe I'm misunderstanding but it has a switch for auto on. Gives me the option for 12v, dc, or audio. So doesn't that mean it should be able to turn on from the audio signal, from rca's, if I switch it to audio? If so, it still won't turn on when I choose that either.

 
i had a zx1000.1 with the same switch. when switched to audio, it will only come on when you turn the radio up quite a bit. so try turning the radio up. this feature kind of *****

you should be able to use the test light to test for power on the remote @ the head unit. also verify that the remote wire is still intact, a lot of remote wire out there in the amp kits is horrible tiny gauge wire. and if you don't use some decent wire strippers you'll rip apart the remote wire on the inside.

 
Unfortunately it didn't kick on at the higher volume via audio, so I will connect it to the red 12v wire as mentioned above. Never thought/heard of doing that, will cause any problems or anything? Also the remote wire is fine and wasn't disconnected from anything. Thanks again for the help and will let you know what happens!

 
Honestly, a DMM will pay for itself the first time you use it. You can get them for as little as $10 online, or about $15-20 locally (Radio Shack). Test for 12V coming off of the remote wire (usually blue wire). If you have 12V, the amp is not working correctly.

 
I never use ignition for amp turn on. The issues are turn on/off thumps, noise, and possible speaker damage when the HU is turned off while the car is on, since the amp will always be on when the car is on and will cycle on/off when starting even if the HU is off.

If you must go to ignition because your HU remote output is damaged. Then you install a 0.5A inline fuse at the ignition wire tap, and install an inline switch with an LED light, you must manually turn the amp off every time you turn off the car or turn off the head unit. Amp off first, before the HU or car. Amp on last, after the HU and car. It's a PITA but will protect your gear. The LED light on the switch will remind you and give confirmation.

 
Yeah that does sound like a pain! I connected it to the red wire as mentioned earlier it just blew the radio fuse (in the car). It's a 10a fuse, so it wouldn't be a good idea to put in a higher fuse right? Sounds like I might just have to buy a new unit.

 
Yeah that does sound like a pain! I connected it to the red wire as mentioned earlier it just blew the radio fuse (in the car). It's a 10a fuse, so it wouldn't be a good idea to put in a higher fuse right? Sounds like I might just have to buy a new unit.
Did you run a new remote wire to the amp, or just disconnect the old wire from the head unit remote and reconnect it to the red wire at the head unit? If you used the same old wire it sounds like it's shorted, that's why the fuse blew and probably what blew the head unit remote.

 
if connecting the amp remote turn-on directly to an ignition source blew a 10A fuse then one of two things is true

1. the amp is toast

2. the remote wire has a short in it and the wire should be replaced

 
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