How to troubleshoot sub/amp problem???

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Blazer1
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Some of you guys where nice enough to help my son and I design and install his subs and amp he got for Christmas,..well we think we have a problem. We are noticing a decrease in output from the subs.

Here is the setup;

Soundstream PCX2.540@540w bridged (running it bridged at 2 ohms although it is only rated bridged @4ohms)

(2) RE Audio SRI10D2 running them in a 2.3cubic ft undivided enclosure tuned to 32hz each speaker running @4 ohms to shared post for a total 2ohm load.

We started out using a 8ga amp wiring kit that turned out to be junk, the wire was all insulation and no copper. I keep the gain turned all the way down on the amp for a couple of days to break in the new subs and had my son keep the volume on the hu down well when I started cranking the gain and volume up we melted the cheap fuse holder(the amp started cutting out and we smelled something hot) so I replaced the fuse holder with a heavy duty one and the amp cables are now true 4ga welding cable.

So, how can I go about finding the source of our problem, I have several types of multimeter's and other test equipment.

 
Some of you guys where nice enough to help my son and I design and install his subs and amp he got for Christmas,..well we think we have a problem. We are noticing a decrease in output from the subs.
Here is the setup;

Soundstream PCX2.540@540w bridged (running it bridged at 2 ohms although it is only rated bridged @4ohms)

(2) RE Audio SRI10D2 running them in a 2.3cubic ft undivided enclosure tuned to 32hz each speaker running @4 ohms to shared post for a total 2ohm load.

We started out using a 8ga amp wiring kit that turned out to be junk, the wire was all insulation and no copper. I keep the gain turned all the way down on the amp for a couple of days to break in the new subs and had my son keep the volume on the hu down well when I started cranking the gain and volume up we melted the cheap fuse holder(the amp started cutting out and we smelled something hot) so I replaced the fuse holder with a heavy duty one and the amp cables are now true 4ga welding cable.

So, how can I go about finding the source of our problem, I have several types of multimeter's and other test equipment.
So what is the problem after replacing the power wire and fuse?

If it's the amp still cutting out, well..... you are running it at half it's rated impedance //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 
I guess I should have explained the problem! LOL

Everything sounds normal,..just a reduction off sound. No strange noises or cutting out it just does not hit as hard as it seems to have before.

 
I guess I should have explained the problem! LOL
Everything sounds normal,..just a reduction off sound. No strange noises or cutting out it just does not hit as hard as it seems to have before.
Are you sure both subs are still working?, just cause they are both moving does not mean they are working, as they are in an undivided box.

 
No, I am not sure they are both working and they are in an undivided box. How can I tell if they are both working without removing them from the enclosure?

 
No, I am not sure they are both working and they are in an undivided box. How can I tell if they are both working without removing them from the enclosure?
That's one way!

Do you not have terminals on the outside of the box? Try, one, then the other!

 
i was just going to suggest 2 tests, well 3, really. play off 1 rca at a time, and see if it drops level, or is pulling off one side. swap sides, if it is to rule out the amp. next, play one sub at a time (watch excursion, so you don't bottom them out) and ohm the subs at the amp connections.....

 
There is only two terminals on the box, the subs are wired to these two terimals from the inside I would have to pull one of the subs and unhook it from the inside. What about testing voltage at the box to see what the amp is putting out, it seems I saw a chart on converting a.c. voltage to wattage somewhere?

 
There is only two terminals on the box, the subs are wired to these two terimals from the inside I would have to pull one of the subs and unhook it from the inside. What about testing voltage at the box to see what the amp is putting out, it seems I saw a chart on converting a.c. voltage to wattage somewhere?
Sure, but since you don't have a measurement of what it was putting out before the problem, you aren't really going to be able to do much with the numbers.

There is no chart that will show what voltage you should get out of the amp when you run the amp at 1/2 of the rated impedance.

You will be able to measure the wattage output though.

 
Sure, but since you don't have a measurement of what it was putting out before the problem, you aren't really going to be able to do much with the numbers.There is no chart that will show what voltage you should get out of the amp when you run the amp at 1/2 of the rated impedance.

You will be able to measure the wattage output though.
I did not think about that,..very true! What about measuring impedence of the combine speakers? Would that give me a clue to the problem?

 
yes.... again, did you measure before-hand, by chance?

if it's reading 4_()_ then, it's obvious, but if it's reading 1/2-1 off of base reading, that can indicate progressive failure of sorts....... so, are these dual2's, or single 4's?

 
I did not think about that,..very true! What about measuring impedence of the combine speakers? Would that give me a clue to the problem?
Yes, measure the DC resistance of the subs at the single terminal on the box - disconnect the amp from the box first.

Also, if you play the subs at a low volume - touch one (physically stop it from moving)... then do the other. If the same thing happens when you touch either of them, there's a good chance they are both working. If touching one stops the audio, and touching the other does very little to the output - you've found your problem.

 
Found it!!!!!!!

The problem was the combination of using the LPF/HPF in the HU and the amp at the same time, turn either off and the "punch" is back. I am going to use the subwoofer controls on the headunit as they are easiest to get to and it does not seem to matter. I can't explain why but having pre-outs set to subwoofer instead of full with the amp set on low caused all sorts of problems. Thanks guys for your help but what we have hear is a common problem called "user error". I wonder how many times good companies get bashed because some jack-legg screws up an installation, that would be me in this case. LOL

Just when I was ready to start my Soundstream/RE Audio bashing thread!

 
running it @ 2ohms cant be good for it if it's only rated at 4ohms bridged. i'm not sure why anybody hasn't said a word about that. i get that it's running good now but don't be suprised if it does blow up. i'm not sure why you ran it this way anyways, it could have been ran 270x2 @ 2ohms which is what it's set to run bridged @ 4. but good luck with it.

 
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