Rear Battery debate

stangman67
10+ year member

CarAudio.com Veteran
2,557
0
Seattle
Topic for discussion,

When adding a second (or third or fourth etc) battery in the rear of the car is it better to ground the batteries to the frame or do a run of negative from the front batt to the rear.

I have read a few posts lately on various forums stating that it is necessary to ground the battery directly to the starting batt via a run of wire. My opinion is that grounding the battery in the rear to the frame is fine since everything is essentially grounded to the frame, ie making a closed loop. The resistance difference between a run of wire and the frame of the car is negligible.

Other people's opinions?

 
i personally ground mine to the frame, as well as quite a few of the ppl that i do car audio with, and none of us have ever had any issues with it, other than it coming loose every once in a while, but 140db will do that

 
Ive read anything above 300w should be grounded back upfront but i guess that depends on ones chassis config. To answer you qustion you should check the desired location with a dimm and as long as you get the same reading as the upfront batt ground your good

 
Ive read anything above 300w should be grounded back upfront but i guess that depends on ones chassis config. To answer you qustion you should check the desired location with a dimm and as long as you get the same reading as the upfront batt ground your good
I never asked that lol. I ground my batts to the rear without issues. It is fine with unibodies because everything ties to

frame rails". I ground my batts and batteries to the rear seat mount in my car.

 
I never asked that lol. I ground my batts to the rear without issues. It is fine with unibodies because everything ties to frame rails". I ground my batts and batteries to the rear seat mount in my car.
Unibodies are pieces of **** like your focus that are held together with spot welds and body caulk. If you actually want a good ground in a newer car ground it to your actual frame under the car, and run grounds from your frame infront to the engine and battery. That is about the only good piece of metal you will find.

 
Unibodies are pieces of **** like your focus that are held together with spot welds and body caulk. If you actually want a good ground in a newer car ground it to your actual frame under the car, and run grounds from your frame infront to the engine and battery. That is about the only good piece of metal you will find.
are you saying mustangs, challengers and camaros are shit? (classic and new)? also novas? bc they are all unibody.....

 
I tested it -- zero SPL difference with about 10,000 watts of clamped power with a bank of 6 batteries in back.

Maybe more significant with less reserve in back but haven't tested that way.

 
are you saying mustangs, challengers and camaros are shit? (classic and new)? also novas? bc they are all unibody.....
Yea, I guess my mustang is really a piece of ****!

22360020027_medium.jpg


 
I tested it -- zero SPL difference with about 10,000 watts of clamped power with a bank of 6 batteries in back.
Maybe more significant with less reserve in back but haven't tested that way.
Thanks Jacob, nothing like evidence to prove a point! I rest my case

 
my corvette chassi was a horrible ground conductor.

I ended up grounding my rear battery to the chassi back there - and doing a big run of negative wire to the front battery

and made multiple extra engine / chassi grounds when I did my big 3 upfront.

it was the only way I could get my vette to give solid electrical. with out the negative run of big wire front to back I was still getting terrible voltage drops.

front battery was a optima yellow top / rear battery was a kenetik 800

 
I never asked that lol. I ground my batts to the rear without issues. It is fine with unibodies because everything ties to frame rails". I ground my batts and batteries to the rear seat mount in my car.
Frame rails? A lot of cars that are unibody are glued,welded together without conductive materials and alot of the bolts are alloys that are horrible conductors then add in polyurathan parts inbetween metal parts and you have yourself a not so well designed unit for conducting electricity. When I add batteries I just do a run up front to the alternator bracket and get it over with.

 
Activity
No one is currently typing a reply...
Old Thread: Please note, there have been no replies in this thread for over 3 years!
Content in this thread may no longer be relevant.
Perhaps it would be better to start a new thread instead.

Similar threads

I would try a pair of Bass Blockers on the rear speakers. I always place them on Coax. speakers generally, Should help quite a bit I like PAC ones...
3
521
I’ve tried it in 3 different vehicles and multiple locations. Rear deck is best for me. Unless it’s a midbass I don’t want anything in the rear...
10
672
The end result is, not the intention. I think OP got what I was saying. The Brits generally aren't as sensitive. A 500w sub amp does not...
17
3K

About this thread

stangman67

10+ year member
CarAudio.com Veteran
Thread starter
stangman67
Joined
Location
Seattle
Start date
Participants
Who Replied
Replies
32
Views
2,380
Last reply date
Last reply from
lostdaytomorrow
IMG_0632.jpg

just call me KeV

    Apr 19, 2024
  • 0
  • 0
IMG_0629.jpg

just call me KeV

    Apr 19, 2024
  • 0
  • 0

Latest topics

Top