Moe Lester 10+ year member
1/3 of TEAM PWNAGE
Hello All,
I am putting a little setup in my truck for fun. The components as of right now are:
H/U - Stock - I don't want to mess up the way the dash looks with an aftermarket unit.
Signal Processor - Rockford Fosgate 360.2 - Should make up for the Stock H/U //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif
Midbass - Usher Audio 7" with Phase Plug
Tweeter - Morel MDT 12 (I am testing this out, I have another in mind if this one doesn't work out.)
Active Crossovers via Rockford 360.2
Amplifier for Front Stage - Rainbow Ipaul 3.400
Wiring - Knukonceptz, Monster, and Dayton
Deadening Material - Second Skin Audio
Sub Amp - Ipaul 1.1000
Subwoofer - ??? Undecided
The goal is a nice front stage leaning more towards SQ. Everything must remain stock looking. The sub(s) will probably not be using the 1kw on tap either.
On to the pics
Here's the stock midbass compared to the new Usher Audio 7" mid with an aluminum phase plug.
To fit the oversized driver into the door I fabbed up some simple baffles. They are secured to the door with standard sheet metal bolts and have a layer of foam between the wood and door to help seal and eliminate any rattle that may occur.
I had to bust out the sawzall to open the door up a bit, as the factory skin doesn't have a large enough opening. You can also see that the door skin that you see from the outside has a layer of sound deadening on it.
Sound deadener was used to cover the main openings in the door to help get closer to an infinite baffle setup as possible in a door. I didn't want to go too heavy with the stuff though as it is thick heavy material and by tapping on the door the sheet metal no longer resonates badly.
The speaker is soldered in and the run of wire goes directly into the amplifier. I do not like connections anywhere in the line that can potentially fail.
And the speaker is now installed. The screws go through the wood and also into the sheet metal of the door.
I would have liked to use a pan head screw or a hex head screw for installing the speaker, but now I am just nit picking myself on what I have available lol.
More to come tomorrow. It is dark outside and I don't have any good work lights. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif
I am putting a little setup in my truck for fun. The components as of right now are:
H/U - Stock - I don't want to mess up the way the dash looks with an aftermarket unit.
Signal Processor - Rockford Fosgate 360.2 - Should make up for the Stock H/U //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif
Midbass - Usher Audio 7" with Phase Plug
Tweeter - Morel MDT 12 (I am testing this out, I have another in mind if this one doesn't work out.)
Active Crossovers via Rockford 360.2
Amplifier for Front Stage - Rainbow Ipaul 3.400
Wiring - Knukonceptz, Monster, and Dayton
Deadening Material - Second Skin Audio
Sub Amp - Ipaul 1.1000
Subwoofer - ??? Undecided
The goal is a nice front stage leaning more towards SQ. Everything must remain stock looking. The sub(s) will probably not be using the 1kw on tap either.
On to the pics
Here's the stock midbass compared to the new Usher Audio 7" mid with an aluminum phase plug.
To fit the oversized driver into the door I fabbed up some simple baffles. They are secured to the door with standard sheet metal bolts and have a layer of foam between the wood and door to help seal and eliminate any rattle that may occur.
I had to bust out the sawzall to open the door up a bit, as the factory skin doesn't have a large enough opening. You can also see that the door skin that you see from the outside has a layer of sound deadening on it.
Sound deadener was used to cover the main openings in the door to help get closer to an infinite baffle setup as possible in a door. I didn't want to go too heavy with the stuff though as it is thick heavy material and by tapping on the door the sheet metal no longer resonates badly.
The speaker is soldered in and the run of wire goes directly into the amplifier. I do not like connections anywhere in the line that can potentially fail.
And the speaker is now installed. The screws go through the wood and also into the sheet metal of the door.
I would have liked to use a pan head screw or a hex head screw for installing the speaker, but now I am just nit picking myself on what I have available lol.
More to come tomorrow. It is dark outside and I don't have any good work lights. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif
