jellyfish420 10 #1 Posted July 28, 2007 well i finally did it. i'm using the active xover on my hu. right now i have the sub @ 50, mid 100>2.5k and high 4k all @ 24db/oct. it don't sound bad, but i def need to play w/ it. i know every install is different, but i was wondering...to all of you who are running an active setup, where is your xover points? so i can have an idea of at least where i should be starting, then tweek around w/ it. thanks. NEED A BOX DESIGN? PM ME HEAD UNIT 860mp ACTIVE FRONT STAGE JBL GTO75.4 II RE 6.5 VIFA XT25 ring radiator 1" SUB STAGE ega 1400d 3HP FI STOLEN Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BEHEMOTH 0 #2 Posted July 28, 2007 well i finally did it. i'm using the active xover on my hu. right now i have the sub @ 50, mid 100>2.5k and high 4k all @ 24db/oct. it don't sound bad, but i def need to play w/ it. i know every install is different, but i was wondering...to all of you who are running an active setup, where is your xover points? so i can have an idea of at least where i should be starting, then tweek around w/ it. thanks. what kind of hu are you using? [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC]for every reaction there is a reaction Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ngsm13 2,849 #3 Posted July 28, 2007 Sub: 63hz lowpass @12dB/oct Mids: 80hz highpass @24 dB/oct, and 1.6kHz @12dB/oct Tweets: 2khz Highpass @12dB/oct, -4dB down I have my gain on my tweeter amp too far up, too lazy to readjust it... so I just use the attenuation on the HU. I've also had the Mids up to 2kHz @18dB/oct, while the Tweets picked up at 2.5kHz @12dB/oct. I love active, been running it over 2.5 years, don't thing I'll ever go back. nG http://crunktimes.com/ct/ nG - BSEE Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jellyfish420 10 #4 Posted July 28, 2007 its better to xover the mid as low as you can go w/ the tweet, isn't it, like xover the tweet all the way down to 2k, if it'll go that low, so the mid doesn't have to play all that high? NEED A BOX DESIGN? PM ME HEAD UNIT 860mp ACTIVE FRONT STAGE JBL GTO75.4 II RE 6.5 VIFA XT25 ring radiator 1" SUB STAGE ega 1400d 3HP FI STOLEN Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BEHEMOTH 0 #5 Posted July 28, 2007 its better to xover the mid as low as you can go w/ the tweet, isn't it, like xover the tweet all the way down to 2k, if it'll go that low, so the mid doesn't have to play all that high? what kind of hu are you running x2 [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC]for every reaction there is a reaction Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BEHEMOTH 0 #6 Posted July 28, 2007 [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC]for every reaction there is a reaction Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jellyfish420 10 #7 Posted July 28, 2007 WTF noob. learn how to read, and STFU. NEED A BOX DESIGN? PM ME HEAD UNIT 860mp ACTIVE FRONT STAGE JBL GTO75.4 II RE 6.5 VIFA XT25 ring radiator 1" SUB STAGE ega 1400d 3HP FI STOLEN Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
xtremekustomz 0 #8 Posted July 28, 2007 its better to xover the mid as low as you can go w/ the tweet, isn't it, like xover the tweet all the way down to 2k, if it'll go that low, so the mid doesn't have to play all that high? Actually you want your midrange to play the most frequencies possible. Of course it is going to depend on if your midrange can actually do that. I know Hybrid Audio makes a 3" driver that can play from 140-10000 and a 4" that can play from 100-17000 with the proper crossover. It is best to have the majority of what we hear come from 1 point source. I personally run my midbass from 40-140, midrange from 140-4k, and tweet from 4k up. The best thing about running active is that you can change crossover points and slopes easily to find what works best in your particular vehicle. 2000 Chevrolet Silverado Ext. Cab Headunit: Alpine IVA-W200 Processor:Alpine PXA-H701 Front Stage Tweeter: Canton Pullman Front Stage Midrange:Canton Pullman 4" Front Stage Midbass:Dynaudio MW170 Subwoofer:Image Dynamics IDMAX 12" Front Stage Tweeter Amp:US Amps USA 50X Front Stage Midrange Amp:US Amps USA 200X Front Stage Midbass Amp:US Amps USA 200X Sub Amp:US Amps USA 600 Wiring and Distribution:Stinger Deadener:125 sq ft Raamat, 7 yds Ensolite, 2 qts roadkill Fiberglass dash, console/woofer box, amp rack, door panels Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MiniVanMan 0 #9 Posted July 28, 2007 Actually you want your midrange to play the most frequencies possible. Of course it is going to depend on if your midrange can actually do that. I know Hybrid Audio makes a 3" driver that can play from 140-10000 and a 4" that can play from 100-17000 with the proper crossover. It is best to have the majority of what we hear come from 1 point source. I personally run my midbass from 40-140, midrange from 140-4k, and tweet from 4k up. The best thing about running active is that you can change crossover points and slopes easily to find what works best in your particular vehicle. Yes and no. In a 3-way you have the luxury of running your midranges a bit higher. In a 2-way with a 7" driver not so much. The point where a 7" driver starts to beam, and off-axis response starts to degrade is much lower than a 4" or 3" midrange. A 7" driver will typically start to beam around 2k, so you definitely want your tweeter to start being able to take over by that point. That is, given the midbass is mounted in the doors. Mounted in kicks on-axis is a different story. The argument about crossover points in the middle of the midrange frequencies is valid but moot when talking about a 2-way with a 6.5 or 7" mid. It's unavoidable at that point, and one of the reasons that an active crossover is highly desireable over a passive in that you can tune the system to where you can blend the mid and tweeter as well as can be expected, with a minimal of degradation at the crossover point. So, you want your tweeter to take over as low as it can handle in a 2-way. Remember, with door mounted drivers, we're often talking about running a midbass at 60-80 degrees off-axis. That's asking a lot from any driver. Here's a link. I've posted it on this site before, but I'm tired of trying to find it here as it got buried. http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/showthread.php?t=7107 2007 Chrysler Town & Country Type R Being installed as we speak Mids: 7" Scan Speak Revelator Tweets: Lotus RT27F Subs: Dayton RS315HO (x2) H/U: Eclipse 8053 Amps: Memphis ST1500, ST200.4, ST150 Want to understand your passive crossover a little better?? http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/showthread.php?t=7160&page=1&pp=10 Your ability to buy expensive audio equipment does NOT make you an "audiophile" Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
xtremekustomz 0 #10 Posted July 28, 2007 well i finally did it. i'm using the active xover on my hu. right now i have the sub @ 50, mid 100>2.5k and high 4k all @ 24db/oct. it don't sound bad, but i def need to play w/ it. i know every install is different, but i was wondering...to all of you who are running an active setup, where is your xover points? so i can have an idea of at least where i should be starting, then tweek around w/ it. thanks. So you've got the sub from we will just say 0-50hz, the mid from 100-2.5k and your tweets from 4k-20k at 24db/octave? What are you doing the frequencies between 50-100 and 2.5-4k? You are going to need to play around with your crossover points in your own vehicle. No one can tell you what will work best because not every vehicle and setup is the same. It is all going to be trial and error 2000 Chevrolet Silverado Ext. Cab Headunit: Alpine IVA-W200 Processor:Alpine PXA-H701 Front Stage Tweeter: Canton Pullman Front Stage Midrange:Canton Pullman 4" Front Stage Midbass:Dynaudio MW170 Subwoofer:Image Dynamics IDMAX 12" Front Stage Tweeter Amp:US Amps USA 50X Front Stage Midrange Amp:US Amps USA 200X Front Stage Midbass Amp:US Amps USA 200X Sub Amp:US Amps USA 600 Wiring and Distribution:Stinger Deadener:125 sq ft Raamat, 7 yds Ensolite, 2 qts roadkill Fiberglass dash, console/woofer box, amp rack, door panels Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
xtremekustomz 0 #11 Posted July 28, 2007 Yes and no. In a 3-way you have the luxury of running your midranges a bit higher. In a 2-way with a 7" driver not so much. The point where a 7" driver starts to beam, and off-axis response starts to degrade is much lower than a 4" or 3" midrange. A 7" driver will typically start to beam around 2k, so you definitely want your tweeter to start being able to take over by that point. That is, given the midbass is mounted in the doors. Mounted in kicks on-axis is a different story. The argument about crossover points in the middle of the midrange frequencies is valid but moot when talking about a 2-way with a 6.5 or 7" mid. It's unavoidable at that point, and one of the reasons that an active crossover is highly desireable over a passive in that you can tune the system to where you can blend the mid and tweeter as well as can be expected, with a minimal of degradation at the crossover point. So, you want your tweeter to take over as low as it can handle in a 2-way. Remember, with door mounted drivers, we're often talking about running a midbass at 60-80 degrees off-axis. That's asking a lot from any driver. Here's a link. I've posted it on this site before, but I'm tired of trying to find it here as it got buried. http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/showthread.php?t=7107 I didn't look at his sig and see he was using a 6.5" Personally I don't like running anything larger than a 5 1/4 to cover midrange frequencies in a car. 2000 Chevrolet Silverado Ext. Cab Headunit: Alpine IVA-W200 Processor:Alpine PXA-H701 Front Stage Tweeter: Canton Pullman Front Stage Midrange:Canton Pullman 4" Front Stage Midbass:Dynaudio MW170 Subwoofer:Image Dynamics IDMAX 12" Front Stage Tweeter Amp:US Amps USA 50X Front Stage Midrange Amp:US Amps USA 200X Front Stage Midbass Amp:US Amps USA 200X Sub Amp:US Amps USA 600 Wiring and Distribution:Stinger Deadener:125 sq ft Raamat, 7 yds Ensolite, 2 qts roadkill Fiberglass dash, console/woofer box, amp rack, door panels Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jellyfish420 10 #12 Posted July 29, 2007 So you've got the sub from we will just say 0-50hz, the mid from 100-2.5k and your tweets from 4k-20k at 24db/octave? What are you doing the frequencies between 50-100 and 2.5-4k? You are going to need to play around with your crossover points in your own vehicle. No one can tell you what will work best because not every vehicle and setup is the same. It is all going to be trial and error that is just where i started. i've got the sub at 63 @12db mid at 80 and 2k @ 24db, and the tweet 2.5k @ 24db. i've played around a little and i think it sounds pretty good there. thats where the sound surrounds you real good:) i would really like to get an RTA though... NEED A BOX DESIGN? PM ME HEAD UNIT 860mp ACTIVE FRONT STAGE JBL GTO75.4 II RE 6.5 VIFA XT25 ring radiator 1" SUB STAGE ega 1400d 3HP FI STOLEN Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
xtremekustomz 0 #13 Posted July 29, 2007 I'm guessing you are just using the eq in the head unit right? Here is a quick tutorial on tuning if you have the ability in the head unit: http://forum.elitecaraudio.com/showthread.php?threadid=98293 2000 Chevrolet Silverado Ext. Cab Headunit: Alpine IVA-W200 Processor:Alpine PXA-H701 Front Stage Tweeter: Canton Pullman Front Stage Midrange:Canton Pullman 4" Front Stage Midbass:Dynaudio MW170 Subwoofer:Image Dynamics IDMAX 12" Front Stage Tweeter Amp:US Amps USA 50X Front Stage Midrange Amp:US Amps USA 200X Front Stage Midbass Amp:US Amps USA 200X Sub Amp:US Amps USA 600 Wiring and Distribution:Stinger Deadener:125 sq ft Raamat, 7 yds Ensolite, 2 qts roadkill Fiberglass dash, console/woofer box, amp rack, door panels Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jellyfish420 10 #14 Posted July 29, 2007 I'm guessing you are just using the eq in the head unit right? Here is a quick tutorial on tuning if you have the ability in the head unit: http://forum.elitecaraudio.com/showthread.php?threadid=98293 ya, just using the hu, 13 band. nothing special but ALOT better than "bass" and "treble". NEED A BOX DESIGN? PM ME HEAD UNIT 860mp ACTIVE FRONT STAGE JBL GTO75.4 II RE 6.5 VIFA XT25 ring radiator 1" SUB STAGE ega 1400d 3HP FI STOLEN Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mlstrass 624 #15 Posted July 30, 2007 RTA "might" help, but it's your ears you're trying to please, so use them as your guide. Your current settings sound pretty right on as far as xovers. Not just spend some time tweaking EQ settings do dial it in. I like to make a change or two and listen for a few days to see if I like it before making more changes. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MiniVanMan 0 #16 Posted July 30, 2007 RTA "might" help, but it's your ears you're trying to please, so use them as your guide. Dead on. I don't compete because what I like, and what generally wins at competitions varies to the degree that it's pointless. Anyway, make sure when tweaking, that you give yourself some listening time at each setting. That is once you reach the fine tuning stage. You'll also find that different songs, and styles of music will sound better at different settings, so make sure you stay consistent with what you tune with. Pick your 3 favorite songs. If you listen to 3 different genres of music, pick one song from each genre and use those to tune. My three are: Tool - Lateralus Peter Gabriel - Steam Duran Duran - Rio If I can get those three to all sound good, I've got my system pretty dialed in. 2007 Chrysler Town & Country Type R Being installed as we speak Mids: 7" Scan Speak Revelator Tweets: Lotus RT27F Subs: Dayton RS315HO (x2) H/U: Eclipse 8053 Amps: Memphis ST1500, ST200.4, ST150 Want to understand your passive crossover a little better?? http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/showthread.php?t=7160&page=1&pp=10 Your ability to buy expensive audio equipment does NOT make you an "audiophile" Share this post Link to post Share on other sites