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active xover

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well i finally did it. i'm using the active xover on my hu. right now i have the sub @ 50, mid 100>2.5k and high 4k all @ 24db/oct. it don't sound bad, but i def need to play w/ it. i know every install is different, but i was wondering...to all of you who are running an active setup, where is your xover points? so i can have an idea of at least where i should be starting, then tweek around w/ it. thanks.


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HEAD UNIT

860mp

ACTIVE FRONT STAGE

JBL GTO75.4 II

RE 6.5

VIFA XT25 ring radiator 1"

SUB STAGE

ega 1400d

3HP FI

STOLEN

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well i finally did it. i'm using the active xover on my hu. right now i have the sub @ 50, mid 100>2.5k and high 4k all @ 24db/oct. it don't sound bad, but i def need to play w/ it. i know every install is different, but i was wondering...to all of you who are running an active setup, where is your xover points? so i can have an idea of at least where i should be starting, then tweek around w/ it. thanks.

 

 

what kind of hu are you using?


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Sub: 63hz lowpass @12dB/oct

Mids: 80hz highpass @24 dB/oct, and 1.6kHz @12dB/oct

Tweets: 2khz Highpass @12dB/oct, -4dB down

 

I have my gain on my tweeter amp too far up, too lazy to readjust it... so I just use the attenuation on the HU. I've also had the Mids up to 2kHz @18dB/oct, while the Tweets picked up at 2.5kHz @12dB/oct.

 

I love active, been running it over 2.5 years, don't thing I'll ever go back.

 

nG

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its better to xover the mid as low as you can go w/ the tweet, isn't it, like xover the tweet all the way down to 2k, if it'll go that low, so the mid doesn't have to play all that high?


NEED A BOX DESIGN? PM ME

 

HEAD UNIT

860mp

ACTIVE FRONT STAGE

JBL GTO75.4 II

RE 6.5

VIFA XT25 ring radiator 1"

SUB STAGE

ega 1400d

3HP FI

STOLEN

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its better to xover the mid as low as you can go w/ the tweet, isn't it, like xover the tweet all the way down to 2k, if it'll go that low, so the mid doesn't have to play all that high?

 

what kind of hu are you running x2


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WTF noob. learn how to read, and STFU.


NEED A BOX DESIGN? PM ME

 

HEAD UNIT

860mp

ACTIVE FRONT STAGE

JBL GTO75.4 II

RE 6.5

VIFA XT25 ring radiator 1"

SUB STAGE

ega 1400d

3HP FI

STOLEN

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its better to xover the mid as low as you can go w/ the tweet, isn't it, like xover the tweet all the way down to 2k, if it'll go that low, so the mid doesn't have to play all that high?

 

Actually you want your midrange to play the most frequencies possible. Of course it is going to depend on if your midrange can actually do that. I know Hybrid Audio makes a 3" driver that can play from 140-10000 and a 4" that can play from 100-17000 with the proper crossover. It is best to have the majority of what we hear come from 1 point source. I personally run my midbass from 40-140, midrange from 140-4k, and tweet from 4k up. The best thing about running active is that you can change crossover points and slopes easily to find what works best in your particular vehicle.


2000 Chevrolet Silverado Ext. Cab

Headunit: Alpine IVA-W200

Processor:Alpine PXA-H701

Front Stage Tweeter: Canton Pullman

Front Stage Midrange:Canton Pullman 4"

Front Stage Midbass:Dynaudio MW170

Subwoofer:Image Dynamics IDMAX 12"

Front Stage Tweeter Amp:US Amps USA 50X

Front Stage Midrange Amp:US Amps USA 200X

Front Stage Midbass Amp:US Amps USA 200X

Sub Amp:US Amps USA 600

Wiring and Distribution:Stinger

Deadener:125 sq ft Raamat, 7 yds Ensolite, 2 qts roadkill

Fiberglass dash, console/woofer box, amp rack, door panels

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Actually you want your midrange to play the most frequencies possible. Of course it is going to depend on if your midrange can actually do that. I know Hybrid Audio makes a 3" driver that can play from 140-10000 and a 4" that can play from 100-17000 with the proper crossover. It is best to have the majority of what we hear come from 1 point source. I personally run my midbass from 40-140, midrange from 140-4k, and tweet from 4k up. The best thing about running active is that you can change crossover points and slopes easily to find what works best in your particular vehicle.

 

Yes and no. In a 3-way you have the luxury of running your midranges a bit higher. In a 2-way with a 7" driver not so much. The point where a 7" driver starts to beam, and off-axis response starts to degrade is much lower than a 4" or 3" midrange. A 7" driver will typically start to beam around 2k, so you definitely want your tweeter to start being able to take over by that point. That is, given the midbass is mounted in the doors. Mounted in kicks on-axis is a different story.

 

The argument about crossover points in the middle of the midrange frequencies is valid but moot when talking about a 2-way with a 6.5 or 7" mid. It's unavoidable at that point, and one of the reasons that an active crossover is highly desireable over a passive in that you can tune the system to where you can blend the mid and tweeter as well as can be expected, with a minimal of degradation at the crossover point.

 

So, you want your tweeter to take over as low as it can handle in a 2-way. Remember, with door mounted drivers, we're often talking about running a midbass at 60-80 degrees off-axis. That's asking a lot from any driver.

 

Here's a link. I've posted it on this site before, but I'm tired of trying to find it here as it got buried.

 

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/showthread.php?t=7107


2007 Chrysler Town & Country Type R

 

Being installed as we speak

Mids: 7" Scan Speak Revelator

Tweets: Lotus RT27F

Subs: Dayton RS315HO (x2)

 

H/U: Eclipse 8053

Amps: Memphis ST1500, ST200.4, ST150

 

Want to understand your passive crossover a little better??

 

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/showthread.php?t=7160&page=1&pp=10

 

Your ability to buy expensive audio equipment does NOT make you an "audiophile"

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well i finally did it. i'm using the active xover on my hu. right now i have the sub @ 50, mid 100>2.5k and high 4k all @ 24db/oct. it don't sound bad, but i def need to play w/ it. i know every install is different, but i was wondering...to all of you who are running an active setup, where is your xover points? so i can have an idea of at least where i should be starting, then tweek around w/ it. thanks.

 

So you've got the sub from we will just say 0-50hz, the mid from 100-2.5k and your tweets from 4k-20k at 24db/octave? What are you doing the frequencies between 50-100 and 2.5-4k? You are going to need to play around with your crossover points in your own vehicle. No one can tell you what will work best because not every vehicle and setup is the same. It is all going to be trial and error


2000 Chevrolet Silverado Ext. Cab

Headunit: Alpine IVA-W200

Processor:Alpine PXA-H701

Front Stage Tweeter: Canton Pullman

Front Stage Midrange:Canton Pullman 4"

Front Stage Midbass:Dynaudio MW170

Subwoofer:Image Dynamics IDMAX 12"

Front Stage Tweeter Amp:US Amps USA 50X

Front Stage Midrange Amp:US Amps USA 200X

Front Stage Midbass Amp:US Amps USA 200X

Sub Amp:US Amps USA 600

Wiring and Distribution:Stinger

Deadener:125 sq ft Raamat, 7 yds Ensolite, 2 qts roadkill

Fiberglass dash, console/woofer box, amp rack, door panels

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Yes and no. In a 3-way you have the luxury of running your midranges a bit higher. In a 2-way with a 7" driver not so much. The point where a 7" driver starts to beam, and off-axis response starts to degrade is much lower than a 4" or 3" midrange. A 7" driver will typically start to beam around 2k, so you definitely want your tweeter to start being able to take over by that point. That is, given the midbass is mounted in the doors. Mounted in kicks on-axis is a different story.

 

The argument about crossover points in the middle of the midrange frequencies is valid but moot when talking about a 2-way with a 6.5 or 7" mid. It's unavoidable at that point, and one of the reasons that an active crossover is highly desireable over a passive in that you can tune the system to where you can blend the mid and tweeter as well as can be expected, with a minimal of degradation at the crossover point.

 

So, you want your tweeter to take over as low as it can handle in a 2-way. Remember, with door mounted drivers, we're often talking about running a midbass at 60-80 degrees off-axis. That's asking a lot from any driver.

 

Here's a link. I've posted it on this site before, but I'm tired of trying to find it here as it got buried.

 

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/showthread.php?t=7107

 

I didn't look at his sig and see he was using a 6.5" Personally I don't like running anything larger than a 5 1/4 to cover midrange frequencies in a car.


2000 Chevrolet Silverado Ext. Cab

Headunit: Alpine IVA-W200

Processor:Alpine PXA-H701

Front Stage Tweeter: Canton Pullman

Front Stage Midrange:Canton Pullman 4"

Front Stage Midbass:Dynaudio MW170

Subwoofer:Image Dynamics IDMAX 12"

Front Stage Tweeter Amp:US Amps USA 50X

Front Stage Midrange Amp:US Amps USA 200X

Front Stage Midbass Amp:US Amps USA 200X

Sub Amp:US Amps USA 600

Wiring and Distribution:Stinger

Deadener:125 sq ft Raamat, 7 yds Ensolite, 2 qts roadkill

Fiberglass dash, console/woofer box, amp rack, door panels

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So you've got the sub from we will just say 0-50hz, the mid from 100-2.5k and your tweets from 4k-20k at 24db/octave? What are you doing the frequencies between 50-100 and 2.5-4k? You are going to need to play around with your crossover points in your own vehicle. No one can tell you what will work best because not every vehicle and setup is the same. It is all going to be trial and error

 

that is just where i started. i've got the sub at 63 @12db mid at 80 and 2k @ 24db, and the tweet 2.5k @ 24db. i've played around a little and i think it sounds pretty good there. thats where the sound surrounds you real good:) i would really like to get an RTA though...


NEED A BOX DESIGN? PM ME

 

HEAD UNIT

860mp

ACTIVE FRONT STAGE

JBL GTO75.4 II

RE 6.5

VIFA XT25 ring radiator 1"

SUB STAGE

ega 1400d

3HP FI

STOLEN

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I'm guessing you are just using the eq in the head unit right?

 

Here is a quick tutorial on tuning if you have the ability in the head unit:

 

http://forum.elitecaraudio.com/showthread.php?threadid=98293


2000 Chevrolet Silverado Ext. Cab

Headunit: Alpine IVA-W200

Processor:Alpine PXA-H701

Front Stage Tweeter: Canton Pullman

Front Stage Midrange:Canton Pullman 4"

Front Stage Midbass:Dynaudio MW170

Subwoofer:Image Dynamics IDMAX 12"

Front Stage Tweeter Amp:US Amps USA 50X

Front Stage Midrange Amp:US Amps USA 200X

Front Stage Midbass Amp:US Amps USA 200X

Sub Amp:US Amps USA 600

Wiring and Distribution:Stinger

Deadener:125 sq ft Raamat, 7 yds Ensolite, 2 qts roadkill

Fiberglass dash, console/woofer box, amp rack, door panels

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I'm guessing you are just using the eq in the head unit right?

 

Here is a quick tutorial on tuning if you have the ability in the head unit:

 

http://forum.elitecaraudio.com/showthread.php?threadid=98293

 

ya, just using the hu, 13 band. nothing special but ALOT better than "bass" and "treble".


NEED A BOX DESIGN? PM ME

 

HEAD UNIT

860mp

ACTIVE FRONT STAGE

JBL GTO75.4 II

RE 6.5

VIFA XT25 ring radiator 1"

SUB STAGE

ega 1400d

3HP FI

STOLEN

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RTA "might" help, but it's your ears you're trying to please, so use them as your guide.

 

Your current settings sound pretty right on as far as xovers. Not just spend some time tweaking EQ settings do dial it in.

 

I like to make a change or two and listen for a few days to see if I like it before making more changes.

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RTA "might" help, but it's your ears you're trying to please, so use them as your guide.

 

 

Dead on. I don't compete because what I like, and what generally wins at competitions varies to the degree that it's pointless.

 

Anyway, make sure when tweaking, that you give yourself some listening time at each setting. That is once you reach the fine tuning stage. You'll also find that different songs, and styles of music will sound better at different settings, so make sure you stay consistent with what you tune with. Pick your 3 favorite songs. If you listen to 3 different genres of music, pick one song from each genre and use those to tune.

 

My three are:

 

Tool - Lateralus

Peter Gabriel - Steam

Duran Duran - Rio

 

If I can get those three to all sound good, I've got my system pretty dialed in.


2007 Chrysler Town & Country Type R

 

Being installed as we speak

Mids: 7" Scan Speak Revelator

Tweets: Lotus RT27F

Subs: Dayton RS315HO (x2)

 

H/U: Eclipse 8053

Amps: Memphis ST1500, ST200.4, ST150

 

Want to understand your passive crossover a little better??

 

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/showthread.php?t=7160&page=1&pp=10

 

Your ability to buy expensive audio equipment does NOT make you an "audiophile"

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