'93 Toyota Pickup DLX 22RE
Alright guys, I just installed a 160 amp drop in replacement alternator to replace the stock 80 amp. I checked the voltage at idle and attempted to test the amperage while playing music with my ammeter at idle. The new alternator is supposed to produce 160 amps at 1500rpms and up. I'm one person so I wasnt able to test at 1500rpms by myself. Either way the voltage and the amperage being used is the same. 14.24v to 14.27v at idle and 12.8v under the biggest load my amps could muster. With the stock alternator its around 40 amps, with the replacement alternator its around 40amps. I ran 1/0 for the big three.
This is incredibly bad after what I thought would be an upgrade.
I went to O'Reillys and Advanced Auto Parts. One place could only present a 70 amp load on the system and they said it did fine. At Advanced Auto Parts the people didnt seem to know what they were doing. They put the ammeter on the wrong wire to start off with and I had to have them move it. Second they did it with the battery connected and their 'test' which they could only do at idle because it appeared he didnt know how to set it for a higher RPM (It would fail at 2k rpms), only produced 96 peak amps. This is with the battery connected and at 12.8 volts.
How can I get this thing tested correctly to verify my alternator isnt kaput? Maybe I missed something? I didnt remove any wires, I just added to them like someone mentioned in a previous post I had along with sanding down the ground connections. If I remove the battery the truck still runs but the second a bass line hits, even if its only at moderate volume levels, it comes to a complete halt. Shouldnt the alternators voltage regulator (voltage is not variable) be able to cope fast enough?
Any ideas please? I spent 5 hours doing this and cannot easily remove the alternator without once again draining the radiator, removing some pipes to it, the shroud for the fan, the brush guard for the engine, and the air filter and ducts...
Thanks,
Pzaully
Alright guys, I just installed a 160 amp drop in replacement alternator to replace the stock 80 amp. I checked the voltage at idle and attempted to test the amperage while playing music with my ammeter at idle. The new alternator is supposed to produce 160 amps at 1500rpms and up. I'm one person so I wasnt able to test at 1500rpms by myself. Either way the voltage and the amperage being used is the same. 14.24v to 14.27v at idle and 12.8v under the biggest load my amps could muster. With the stock alternator its around 40 amps, with the replacement alternator its around 40amps. I ran 1/0 for the big three.
This is incredibly bad after what I thought would be an upgrade.
I went to O'Reillys and Advanced Auto Parts. One place could only present a 70 amp load on the system and they said it did fine. At Advanced Auto Parts the people didnt seem to know what they were doing. They put the ammeter on the wrong wire to start off with and I had to have them move it. Second they did it with the battery connected and their 'test' which they could only do at idle because it appeared he didnt know how to set it for a higher RPM (It would fail at 2k rpms), only produced 96 peak amps. This is with the battery connected and at 12.8 volts.
How can I get this thing tested correctly to verify my alternator isnt kaput? Maybe I missed something? I didnt remove any wires, I just added to them like someone mentioned in a previous post I had along with sanding down the ground connections. If I remove the battery the truck still runs but the second a bass line hits, even if its only at moderate volume levels, it comes to a complete halt. Shouldnt the alternators voltage regulator (voltage is not variable) be able to cope fast enough?
Any ideas please? I spent 5 hours doing this and cannot easily remove the alternator without once again draining the radiator, removing some pipes to it, the shroud for the fan, the brush guard for the engine, and the air filter and ducts...
Thanks,
Pzaully
