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Peerless Exclusive 7" vs Rainbow SLC w165

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If i decide to go passive, was considering the Rainbow SLCs...

 

If i go active, one of the woofers I was looking at would be the Peerless Exclusive 7".

 

Now, I COULD get the SLCs, and later on down the road run them active.... which brings me to my questions...

 

Any1 from experience or expertise, which driver would be "better" the Peerless Exclusive 7" or Rainbow SLC's 6.5" w165?

 

Also.... what would be a good tweet to complete the Peerless active setup.


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The Peerless Exclusive 7" is one of the best sounding midbass drivers money can buy and they are priced really nicely. Although the SLC's are nice, they wont even come close to the Peerless especially for the price.

 

For the tweeter Im going to suggest the Seas Neo Aluminum. Its an incredible tweeter that sounds even nicer than the CAL25 that comes with the SLC's and its also a very easy price.

 

Run those active and you will have a set of comps that sound better than most options in the $700 to $1000 range for around $220.


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i've heard the peerless 5.5 and the midrange was simply amazing. i would also recommend mating it with the seas neo alum. a mighty fine tweet for the money. peerless exclusive + seas neo alum = ~$220. With the right tuning will be much better than most comps as stated at a much higher price.

 

also the slc set doesn't come with the cal25.


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bay area people need some custom work done? pm me. here's some work that we've done:

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/151662/1

http://s15.photobucket.com/albums/a356/misterassman52/Install/

http://www.v6performance.net/forums/showthread.php?t=76937

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For the tweeter Im going to suggest the Seas Neo Aluminum. Its an incredible tweeter that sounds even nicer than the CAL25 that comes with the SLC's and its also a very easy price.

 

 

Have you even heard the CAl25? Because it doesnt come with the current SLC set.

 

The Exclusive is a nice, larger driver.


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Thx guys.... I always could use the reinforcement.

 

This is good to hear.

 

Not rushing to do my front stage, so when i do i'm def going all active.

 

I assume these are what everyone is referring to?

http://www.madisound.com/cgi-bin/index.cgi?cart_id=7049418.27463&pid=2137


NOW

2007 Maxima SE

-HU: Stock

-Goodies: 15" MX + Orion 2500D = sexAYYY

 

Guess Im an internet nobody :uhoh:, but guess what; Im a real life somebody :).

 

:patrioti:

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yep


W200/H701

Dyn MW160/Lotus RM110/Seas Neo Alum/Idmax

Alpine PDX

 

References

[thread=119640]RoudyruffKK[/thread], [thread=125477]mattmcss[/thread], [thread=123109]BLD 25[/thread], [thread=126855]02corvette[/thread]

bjfish11 ,[thread=141728]slain93gsr[/thread], [thread=143069]DJGTSR[/thread], [thread=127079]flakko[/thread], FoxPro5

[thread=129261]2.2l integra[/thread], [thread=146132]rawdogj[/thread], guy022077, bumpn_gt

lowlinc, [thread=147935]rocky 59[/thread], [thread=155590]alann[/thread], ECA, DIYMA

 

bay area people need some custom work done? pm me. here's some work that we've done:

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/151662/1

http://s15.photobucket.com/albums/a356/misterassman52/Install/

http://www.v6performance.net/forums/showthread.php?t=76937

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Also, the Peerless Exclusives, i see they are 8ohm.

 

what is good to run them at and how many watts?

 

Would I have to parallel left and right to get 4ohm? ....

 

Tried to find this info, no luck as of yet.


NOW

2007 Maxima SE

-HU: Stock

-Goodies: 15" MX + Orion 2500D = sexAYYY

 

Guess Im an internet nobody :uhoh:, but guess what; Im a real life somebody :).

 

:patrioti:

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You will simply need to run an amp that has more power for the peerless, since generally you see a huge powerloss from 8-4ohms. I would grab something around 200 per channel.


The gain is set around 750 right now. I need to get together with my buddy and plug his stethoscope in to set it to 1000.

 

Start fcking one of the guys in the ass to make her jealous :confused:

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Also, the Peerless Exclusives, i see they are 8ohm.

 

what is good to run them at and how many watts?

 

Would I have to parallel left and right to get 4ohm? ....

 

Tried to find this info, no luck as of yet.

 

Ok.... so i can take an Orion 4004, run it bridged to get 200x2@4ohm, then feed 1 to each Peerless and it would sort it out.

 

So... is 200watts@4 ok? Since it will be getting less?


NOW

2007 Maxima SE

-HU: Stock

-Goodies: 15" MX + Orion 2500D = sexAYYY

 

Guess Im an internet nobody :uhoh:, but guess what; Im a real life somebody :).

 

:patrioti:

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You will simply need to run an amp that has more power for the peerless, since generally you see a huge powerloss from 8-4ohms. I would grab something around 200 per channel.

 

yea, thx man. ok so 200 it is.

 

WOW thats a big sig!


NOW

2007 Maxima SE

-HU: Stock

-Goodies: 15" MX + Orion 2500D = sexAYYY

 

Guess Im an internet nobody :uhoh:, but guess what; Im a real life somebody :).

 

:patrioti:

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I had the 165's active off 100w each. They sounded very nice to me, especially as a 2-way set. However, when introducting a midrange, I decided to get something that was built to be a midbass driver, so I went with the Seas L18. I haven't gotten to listen to them yet since I'm an idiot and used WAY too much modeling clay on my rings...which fell onto the speaker and destroyed one.

 

However, I did listen to the good one by itself and off 130w @ 8ohms...it shiiiines. Can't wait to get the set running.


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Have you even heard the CAl25? Because it doesnt come with the current SLC set.

 

The Exclusive is a nice, larger driver.

 

I apologize for the mistake. I've had the chance to play with some SLC's before and for whatever reason I was always under the impression that the SLC's used CAL25 tweets.


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I apologize for the mistake. I've had the chance to play with some SLC's before and for whatever reason I was always under the impression that the SLC's used CAL25 tweets.

 

apparently the "new" ones will include the Cal25..... was in a thread somewhere.


NOW

2007 Maxima SE

-HU: Stock

-Goodies: 15" MX + Orion 2500D = sexAYYY

 

Guess Im an internet nobody :uhoh:, but guess what; Im a real life somebody :).

 

:patrioti:

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if you want something cheaper than the Peerless Exclusive 7.

try the Seas CA18RNX for $60

 

 

 

how about this one ?

 

Dayton RS28A4 $47


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the JL 500/1 is good and JL actually puts out like 185% so that would be good
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Cheapest too.

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if you want something cheaper than the Peerless Exclusive 7.

try the Seas CA18RNX for $60

 

 

 

how about this one ?

 

Dayton RS28A4 $47

 

Price ain't a problem.

 

Willing to spend up to as much as the Rainbow SLCs would cost.

 

I'll look into those however n see how the par. But been hearing TOOO many great things about the Peerless Exclusives. :naughty:


NOW

2007 Maxima SE

-HU: Stock

-Goodies: 15" MX + Orion 2500D = sexAYYY

 

Guess Im an internet nobody :uhoh:, but guess what; Im a real life somebody :).

 

:patrioti:

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From what I've read the Peerless are good for a midrange in a 2-way, but not so for a midbass in a 3-way.


2006 Civic LX Sedan

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DIYma Refs:

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/itrader.php?u=1891

 

Caraudio.com refs:

Groggy23, Radridd, bdubs767, 6spdcoupe, Cahm Rohn, Soydeedo, Lil_KB

 

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Sorry to hi jack but Im after the same thing, except I can only fit a 6.5'' driver. What should I get? I also only have limited power so are there any 4 ohm drivers that are 6.5'' I should be looking at. I want some thing that upgrades my mbq and is in the league of germs and boston pro 60.


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Ok.... so i can take an Orion 4004, run it bridged to get 200x2@4ohm, then feed 1 to each Peerless and it would sort it out.

 

So... is 200watts@4 ok? Since it will be getting less?

 

if you go down to 4ohms wouldn't you sacrifice the potential quality of sound?


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You will simply need to run an amp that has more power for the peerless, since generally you see a huge powerloss from 8-4ohms. I would grab something around 200 per channel.

 

Boo, not correct at all. Perhaps you should take into account other factors than just the overall power output from the amp. While indeed the amp will put out less power at 8 ohms than 4 ohms it doesn't at all mean that the volume will be lower.

 

IMO I'd take the Peerless over the Rainbow anyday. Not even close.

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if you go down to 4ohms wouldn't you sacrifice the potential quality of sound?

 

lol no


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Boo, not correct at all. Perhaps you should take into account other factors than just the overall power output from the amp. While indeed the amp will put out less power at 8 ohms than 4 ohms it doesn't at all mean that the volume will be lower.

 

IMO I'd take the Peerless over the Rainbow anyday. Not even close.

 

I never said the volume would be lower, but having more headroom is always better, and since he will be seing quite a power dropoff at 8 ohms, why not run 200 per channel.


The gain is set around 750 right now. I need to get together with my buddy and plug his stethoscope in to set it to 1000.

 

Start fcking one of the guys in the ass to make her jealous :confused:

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I never said the volume would be lower, but having more headroom is always better, and since he will be seing quite a power dropoff at 8 ohms, why not run 200 per channel.

 

Sorry for OT, but would this power dropoff be more than the dropoff from 4-ohms to 2-ohms?

 

I'm asking because manufacturer's seem to be in the habit of rating their amps as if they handle lower loads perfectly. For example my alpine is rated 150@2, 75@4. But it was birthed over 100@4.

 

It would seem to me that the dropoff from 4 to 8 ohms would be 1/3, not the 1/2 ohms law would dictate. So instead of getting alpine's likely rating 37.5@8, you'd end up with 66@8.

 

Make sense? I've heard the anti-8ohm thing a lot, and I want to get to the bottom of it.


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I never said the volume would be lower, but having more headroom is always better, and since he will be seing quite a power dropoff at 8 ohms, why not run 200 per channel.

 

How is the headroom any different.

 

Speaker A is 4 ohm and 87db efficient

Speaker B is 8 ohm and 90db efficient

 

Both run off an amplifier that puts out 100w@4ohm and 50w@8ohm. At any listening level the headroom will be equal in both cases, but the amp will be running cooler at 8ohms.

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