Featured Yoo I order 3 of these battery for my subs that pull 6000w rms combined . Whats size atlernator should I run I have a 2020 Chevy Silverado 5.3.

randy hagan

CarAudio.com Recruit
IMG_2036.png


I have a 2020 Chevy Silverado . I purchased 3 of the battery’s in the picture too power 6000wrms for my subs What size alternator should I get. My factor alt is 170 I was thinking a 320. Any suggestions
 
Last edited by a moderator:
View attachment 72577

I have a 2020 Chevy Silverado . I purchased 3 of the battery’s in the picture too power 6000wrms for my subs What size alternator should I get. My factor alt is 170 I was thinking a 320. Any suggestions
To power a 6000 watt RMS audio system, you need to consider both your battery capacity and alternator output to ensure your system runs efficiently without draining the batteries too quickly.

1. Calculate Alternator Size:
- A rough estimate is that for every 1000 watts of audio power, you need around 100 amps of current from the alternator.
- For 6000 watts, you'd need about 600 amps total, but this can vary based on the efficiency of your system and how much sound pressure you desire.

2. Existing Battery Backup:
- With three 70Ah batteries, you'll have a decent buffer, but they can't replace the need for a powerful alternator. The batteries will provide short bursts of power while the alternator charges them back up.

3. Alternator Recommendation:
- A 320 amp alternator is a good midpoint, but to be safer, consider going even higher if your vehicle can accommodate it and if you're planning to continuously push your system at high volumes.

4. Inrush Current:
- Consider that during start-up, amplifiers can draw significantly more current than their rated RMS. So, having an even more powerful alternator could be beneficial for daily use.

5. Electrical System:
- Ensure your vehicle’s wiring can handle the upgrade and that you have a proper ground to minimize resistance.

6. Consultation:
- If possible, consult with an expert in car audio installations to get tailored recommendations based on your specific setup and usage patterns.

Going up to a 320 amp alternator should serve you well, but if you're pushing your system hard often, looking for a higher capacity may be advisable.
 
To power a 6000 watt RMS audio system, you need to consider both your battery capacity and alternator output to ensure your system runs efficiently without draining the batteries too quickly.
You don't need an HO alternator if you have a 170A stock alt - you purchased the wrong batteries.

Any one of these on your stock alternator, properly wired up (big three under the hood), would have done the trick.



1. Calculate Alternator Size:
- A rough estimate is that for every 1000 watts of audio power, you need around 100 amps of current from the alternator.
- For 6000 watts, you'd need about 600 amps total, but this can vary based on the efficiency of your system and how much sound pressure you desire.

2. Existing Battery Backup:
- With three 70Ah batteries, you'll have a decent buffer, but they can't replace the need for a powerful alternator. The batteries will provide short bursts of power while the alternator charges them back up.

3. Alternator Recommendation:
- A 320 amp alternator is a good midpoint, but to be safer, consider going even higher if your vehicle can accommodate it and if you're planning to continuously push your system at high volumes.

4. Inrush Current:
- Consider that during start-up, amplifiers can draw significantly more current than their rated RMS. So, having an even more powerful alternator could be beneficial for daily use.

5. Electrical System:
- Ensure your vehicle’s wiring can handle the upgrade and that you have a proper ground to minimize resistance.

6. Consultation:
- If possible, consult with an expert in car audio installations to get tailored recommendations based on your specific setup and usage patterns.

Going up to a 320 amp alternator should serve you well, but if you're pushing your system hard often, looking for a higher capacity may be advisable.
To power a 6000 watt RMS audio system, you need to consider both your battery capacity and alternator output to ensure your system runs efficiently without draining the batteries too quickly.

1. Calculate Alternator Size:
- A rough estimate is that for every 1000 watts of audio power, you need around 100 amps of current from the alternator.
- For 6000 watts, you'd need about 600 amps total, but this can vary based on the efficiency of your system and how much sound pressure you desire.

2. Existing Battery Backup:
- With three 70Ah batteries, you'll have a decent buffer, but they can't replace the need for a powerful alternator. The batteries will provide short bursts of power while the alternator charges them back up.

3. Alternator Recommendation:
- A 320 amp alternator is a good midpoint, but to be safer, consider going even higher if your vehicle can accommodate it and if you're planning to continuously push your system at high volumes.

4. Inrush Current:
- Consider that during start-up, amplifiers can draw significantly more current than their rated RMS. So, having an even more powerful alternator could be beneficial for daily use.

5. Electrical System:
- Ensure your vehicle’s wiring can handle the upgrade and that you have a proper ground to minimize resistance.

6. Consultation:
- If possible, consult with an expert in car audio installations to get tailored recommendations based on your specific setup and usage patterns.

Going up to a 320 amp alternator should serve you well, but if you're pushing your system hard often, looking for a higher capacity may be advisable.
so
You don't need an HO alternator if you have a 170A stock alt - you purchased the wrong batteries.

Any one of these on your stock alternator, properly wired up (big three under the hood), would have done the trick.

What would you suggest

You don't need an HO alternator if you have a 170A stock alt - you purchased the wrong batteries.

Any one of these on your stock alternator, properly wired up (big three under the hood), would have done the trick.

 
In case you weren't sure, HAL is a BOT.

Go to that GloweVoltage site, read up on why with your 170A alt, a series 1 or 2 would be great for your system.

Watch this video, and after, if you feel that you will be drawing bigger numbers than what is usually the case for "LOUD" daily drivers, then consider something like a 250A high-output alt AND a GloweVoltage series 1 or two, no need for the AGMSs if you have the GV, it's plenty.



Keep in mind that AH is a measurement of duration, not peak or discharge performance. No AGM is going to have the same burst rate capability of that single GloweVoltage LifePo4, not one.

Unless you're going to be sitting outside the picnic and playing it loud for hours at a time, you don't need battery storage; you need instant or near-instant current discharge that only a large supercapacitor and lithium can give you.

You might want to consider a supercapacitor along with the lithium GloweVoltage (or similar, like the Limitless lithium or sodium options).


 
In case you weren't sure, HAL is a BOT.

Go to that GloweVoltage site, read up on why with your 170A alt, a series 1 or 2 would be great for your system.

Watch this video, and after, if you feel that you will be drawing bigger numbers than what is usually the case for "LOUD" daily drivers, then consider something like a 250A high-output alt AND a GloweVoltage series 1 or two, no need for the AGMSs if you have the GV, it's plenty.



Keep in mind that AH is a measurement of duration, not peak or discharge performance. No AGM is going to have the same burst rate capability of that single GloweVoltage LifePo4, not one.

Unless you're going to be sitting outside the picnic and playing it loud for hours at a time, you don't need battery storage; you need instant or near-instant current discharge that only a large supercapacitor and lithium can give you.

You might want to consider a supercapacitor along with the lithium GloweVoltage (or similar, like the Limitless lithium or sodium options).



I have these also I was originally advised to use those with a 270 alternator
 

Attachments

  • IMG_2059.jpeg
    IMG_2059.jpeg
    438.4 KB · Views: 6
I have these also I was originally advised to use those with a 270 alternator
I see what appears to be "prismatic" or "pouch" lithium cells?

Can you provide more information on what those are, what you were told to do with them, how they were to be wired up, and their charging voltage?
 
Last edited:
Okay, that's what I thought.

This is essentially a 12v, 74Ah, DIY LifePo4 battery

Wiring those in a straight series configuration is going to net you a 25.6v, 74Ah bank, no bueno (can you say boom)?

Before you even start, need to test each cell and make sure that every cell is top-blanced, then wire them in a four-series two-parallel (4S2P) configuration.

1784334906218.png


That is an example.

Have you ever hooked up something like this before?
Do you have a canister or something to contain all the cells, that can insulate the terminals or exposed leads/cables?
Did you purchase a basic or smart battery management system (BMS) to control/regulate/monitor the current flow?
Have you purchased the linkage cables and tinned copper terminal lugs/ring terminals?
What about fusing after the primary battery and before the secondary cell bank?
What grade are these cells? You only want "A" rated cells.

One really needs to be careful here; this isn't beginner stuff, really. You can blow stuff up if you're not somewhat experienced and careful.
 
Last edited:
Okay, that's what I thought.

This is essentially a 12v, 74Ah, DIY LifePo4 battery

Wiring those in a straight series configuration is going to net you a 25.6v, 74Ah bank, no bueno (can you say boom)?

Before you even start, need to test each cell and make sure that every cell is top-blanced, then wire them in a four-series two-parallel (4S2P) configuration.

View attachment 72610

That is an example.

Have you ever hooked up something like this before?
Do you have a canister or something to contain all the cells, that can insulate the terminals or exposed leads/cables?
Did you purchase a basic or smart battery management system (BMS) to control/regulate/monitor the current flow?
Have you purchased the linkage cables and tinned copper terminal lugs/ring terminals?
What about fusing after the primary battery and before the secondary cell bank?
What grade are these cells? You only want "A" rated cells.

One really needs to be careful here; this isn't beginner stuff, really. You can blow stuff up if you're not somewhat experienced and careful.
What about two of these?
 

Attachments

  • IMG_2096.png
    IMG_2096.png
    313 KB · Views: 8
So, two isn't always better than one.

I've run an entire 5-amp (3000-watt) and 3-amp (6500-watt) systems off a single AGM under the hood and a single GlowevVoltage in the back.

I have the big three and 2/0 running from front to rear to supply the rear battery.

The Limiless product is very good, but that one is too small; even 2 of them do not add up to a single 90ah GV series 1 or the 48ah series 2, both of which will support your 6k system far better.

They both have almost identical charge/discharge rates (very slight edge to the sodium chemistry), but the GV has an amazingly flat voltage curve, which means that at high constant volume or when transients hit and require a burst of high current quickly, the GV will do this consistently until it runs dry. In contrast, the sodium (which is as quick) does have a sloped curve, which makes it act more like a traditional AGM/lead acid, with little differences that do make a difference.

This is significant because the additional amp hours the GV provides in this comparative means a lot of spare, comparatively.

At best, the two Limitless would set you back almost $250 more than a GV series 1 and $300 more than a series 2. A comparable limitless would be one of their LifePo4s, and they are around $1200 to $1400.

Another consideration would be the Titan8 PWR-12v S5 or the 14v PWR-S6 by XS Power.


Monster of a battery, price is great, and I love the quad terminal setup.

Again, this would be my choice to power your system.

$499.00 solo
$524.00 and includes a 10A lithium charger.
$544.00 for the quad terminal option.

 
Last edited:
I'd do the big 3, see how it plays, then if you still need extra juice, consider Apex high output alternators, great products, good pricing, and excellent customer service.


Just fill out the info; they'll send an email response with what's available for your vehicle and the prices.
 
I'd do the big 3, see how it plays, then if you still need extra juice, consider Apex high output alternators, great products, good pricing, and excellent customer service.


Just fill out the info; they'll send an email response with what's available for your vehicle and the prices.
I'd do the big 3, see how it plays, then if you still need extra juice, consider Apex high output alternators, great products, good pricing, and excellent customer service.


Just fill out the info; they'll send an email response with what's available for your

I'd do the big 3, see how it plays, then if you still need extra juice, consider Apex high output alternators, great products, good pricing, and excellent customer service.


Just fill out the info; they'll send an email response with what's available for your vehicle and the prices.
My stock alt is 170 i have a 220 I purchased previous for my vehicle. My Chevy has a voltage regulator. They have some alts with built in bypass I could purchase.
 
Last edited:
Activity
No one is currently typing a reply...

About this thread

randy hagan

CarAudio.com Recruit
Thread starter
randy hagan
Joined
Location
florida
Start date
Participants
Who Replied
Replies
15
Views
981
Last reply date
Last reply from
Doxquzme
1786988502188.png

Doxquzme

    Aug 17, 2026
  • 0
  • 0
DSC03172.JPG

firey_kimchi

    Aug 17, 2026
  • 0
  • 0

New threads

Top