Wiring Confirmation - Dual DVC Subs (2 Ohm) to Alpine PDR-M65 Mono in Custom Enclosure


hackths

CarAudio.com Newbie
May 18, 2020
2
1
Milwaukee, WI
So I built a custom fiberglass enclosure 10+ years ago for my Audi TT- trunk. It has housed two very old Infinity Kappa Perfect 10" subs for years, but after some damage to the subs it was time to replace. The amp driving the subs is an Alpine PDR-M65 Mono. Previously it was an MTX unit. Looking at putting in two RF P2D2-10 subs in the same enclosure. Crutchfield recommended them based on the 2 Ohm output of the Alpine I have. I had a few questions though because I am trying to adapt new subs to a semi-new amp using existing wiring. Old subs were SVC and 4-ohm.

The Alpine has dual speaker output posts (ie 2+ and 2-). I currently had it previous wired with a single pair of speaker wires from the center two posts (ie 1 + and 1 - ) going into the enclosure for the first sub. I then took that speaker wire and split it by soldering a pigtail for sub 1, and speaker wiring going to the other side of the enclosure for sub 2. I did this for both the positive and negative. So the speaker line coming to speaker power coming to sub 1 was split before touching sub 1. Assuming that means I am running the subs in parallel?

The RF P2D2-10 are DVC 2-ohm, so I was under the impression that since the Alpine pumps out at 2 Ohm and the subs are 2 Ohm DVC. I would then jumper the voice coils by connecting + on one to the - on the other side of each sub.

My big questions are related to output from the amp since it has 2 speaker posts, but I always had it connected (maybe incorrectly for all I know) to just one. There is nothing in the manual about bridging connections on the Mono amp, only if using the 4 channel amp in the same family. In the typical connections diagram it shows using the center posts only for a single sub, and using both posts for dual subs, but it doesn't mention anything about the output in ohms, power, parallel or series, etc for any of these connections, its very high level. The power output on the amp states Per Channel at 4 Ohm is 450W RMS, and 2 Ohm at 650W RMS. The subs are rated at a max RMS of 300W - assuming at 2 ohms since they are 2 ohm DVC subs.

A few questions...
1.) Is it correct to drive both subs from a single set of posts from the Amp?
2.) Is it okay/correct to solder the positives and negatives (obviously - with -, and + with +) together before they touch either sub?
3.) Will that continue to push 2 Ohm to each 2 Ohm sub?
4.) Is the wiring diagram attached going to put out 325W to each sub?
5.) Of did I royally screw up my plan? Nothing has been plugged in yet, so I can redo whatever. Just trying to avoid that unless needed.

The more I am looking at this the more confused I am getting. I included a picture of what I have/am doing. Sorry if I am a total noob, I am sure some of you guys do this in your sleep, its not quite a foreign language but far from totally comfortable.

Thanks all!
Tom
 

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1aespinoza

Junior Member
May 22, 2013
654
178
Pharr, Texas
You are 100% on the money. Your wiring plan is spot on so no worries. The amp is a mono amp, meaning it is only one channel output. Manufacturers put extra lugs to make it easier for wiring multiple subs, and I believe to save on making single channel lugs. The positives in the amp are wired together as are the negatives.
 
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hackths

CarAudio.com Newbie
May 18, 2020
2
1
Milwaukee, WI
You are 100% on the money. Your wiring plan is spot on so no worries. The amp is a mono amp, meaning it is only one channel output. Manufacturers put extra lugs to make it easier for wiring multiple subs, and I believe to save on making single channel lugs. The positives in the amp are wired together as are the negatives.
Thanks! I did a resistance test last night on the speaker line coming to the amp and it tested out at 2 ohm (2.0-2.2) so that made me feel good.

After thinking through this a bit more too I think the fact that I soldered a "Y" in the speaker line rather then just connecting one sub to the next shouldn't matter, it just + or - power, it can sit anywhere in the line, not like sub 1 is doing any "processing" of the power. Just need the power to get to each sub.

My only concern now is my crap solder job, I just need more and more practice to avoid the big bulbous solder joint. Probably going to add some resistance there, but hopefully something I can move past for now and clean up later.
 
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audiobaun

CarAudio.com Veteran
Jun 28, 2011
10,550
252
USA
Thanks! I did a resistance test last night on the speaker line coming to the amp and it tested out at 2 ohm (2.0-2.2) so that made me feel good.

After thinking through this a bit more too I think the fact that I soldered a "Y" in the speaker line rather then just connecting one sub to the next shouldn't matter, it just + or - power, it can sit anywhere in the line, not like sub 1 is doing any "processing" of the power. Just need the power to get to each sub.

My only concern now is my crap solder job, I just need more and more practice to avoid the big bulbous solder joint. Probably going to add some resistance there, but hopefully something I can move past for now and clean up later.
We all start somewhere. My soldering can be neat and clean some days and a glob of a mess other days.
 
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