Will a High Output Alternator Fry my car's Electrical System?

i would say dont worry about it    you do have a regulator on it, i went from a stock 110 amp to a 350 amp no problems yet 

 
Why do simple O.P Posts get so off topic 6 pages later?

Replies should be on point about the initial question at hand , so  people can pay it forward with correct informative knowledge.  

 
Its not sure that it will hamper your car. If you will do it in a proper way then you will get a lot of benefit. In most if the cases I had noticed that it works very well and it even improve the performance at so many places. 

The only suggestion that I would like to give is must take an advice from any technician so that you don't need to spent extra bucks in future.

 
Audio is not dead, this new generation is just stupid! Ear buds, air buds, Beats, sound bars...ALL TRASH! I am currently installing a home theater system for a client and when I went to multiple electronic stores, their home and car audio sections were ghost towns...Microcenter even said they don't sell any home audio equipment anymore because people now buy soundbars! WTF?
 
I am no expert at all but from what i gathered on this thread it appears that putting a fuse on the wire from the battery's positive terminal to the Alternator WILL NOT affect anything ASSUMING you leave your ORIGINAL factory installed wire from the battery to the alternator.
 
Lol. I read the fist 5 post and have to let you guys know theirs a high tech piece of equipment on the water from the city to your house called a reducer. It literaly reduces the water pressure to about 40 psi. So water from the fire hose is way freaking higher then the water in your house. Just FYI.
Problem solved
.............:::::BIG easy money tip:::::............
Since you are upgrading electrical.. hints the alternator
Its important to remember to also upgrade your wire.
Just do the big old 3.
Or 4 lol
No more burning up the electrical

.......::::::Big boy tip:::::.....
Don't be cheap buy a fuses for the damn wires. It's cheaper then the hell you will go through if your s$%& burns down.
 
Nothing wrong with going straight from alt to battery pos.
Factory alt wire is fed to the fuse box for voltage regulation prior to bat. Doing this alone is a big upgrade if you are feeding to the back off your battery pos.
If you fuse it and not to many do. Not really needed. Make sure to use a fuse appropriate for the alt output as well as the wire.
At the min. Install a second same size wire ground to the block.
You'll be happy with the results
 
Lol. I read the fist 5 post and have to let you guys know theirs a high tech piece of equipment on the water from the city to your house called a reducer. It literaly reduces the water pressure to about 40 psi.

WOW, old ass necro thread ...
That "high tech" piece of equipment is called a regulator, not a reducer. In plumbing a reducer will actually increase water pressure .... And not every house has a regulator, it's only used when/where needed, as most city water comes into your house around 45-65 psi. I have seen it as high as 85 psi, but that is rare.

And an HO alt will not burn your car up, if installed correctly, to whomever thought it would.
 
WOW, old ass necro thread ...
That "high tech" piece of equipment is called a regulator, not a reducer. In plumbing a reducer will actually increase water pressure .... And not every house has a regulator, it's only used when/where needed, as most city water comes into your house around 45-65 psi. I have seen it as high as 85 psi, but that is rare.

And an HO alt will not burn your car up, if installed correctly, to whomever thought it would.

If the Phx metro has a regulated and secure pressurized water supply, the rest of the non-desert communities should also. AZ takes like 5-10% of the colorado river supply btw. The Salt River Project (SRP) is responsible for water in the 12th largest metro area that receives the least amt of rain in north america. Forgot what this post was about, but very much included in real facts. The Kobalt 26gal quiet tech compressor has a weak regulator. regulating the air flow...immediate 30psi impact tool and 20psi tiny air trigger sprayer thingy! It's quiet and strong tho whatever. Add ons.... I swear they left things capped so the user could add on to this compressor for cheap without voiding the warranty.
 
Nothing wrong with going straight from alt to battery pos.
Factory alt wire is fed to the fuse box for voltage regulation prior to bat. Doing this alone is a big upgrade if you are feeding to the back off your battery pos.
If you fuse it and not to many do. Not really needed. Make sure to use a fuse appropriate for the alt output as well as the wire.
At the min. Install a second same size wire ground to the block.
You'll be happy with the results

OK, so my car hasnt burned down ... yet, BUT my installer put the alt in (I dont recall what it is, think its a 400 overkill to make sure I get 14 V to the stereo no matter what else is on) & my check engine light is on & the message is the voltage is higher than the Kia Rio expects or is happy with. I didnt see where there was a fuse or device to step down the Alt to what ever sensor tells the ECM to much power. Should I be looking to have a fuse installed to STOP THE check engine light? Cause when we put the sock back in...check engine goes off....(and my installer...well he has no idea how to correct this issue) I would LOVE to have a resolution. Car is a 2018 Kia Rio.
 
I've heard the analogies too....

"A HOalt is like a firehose where as your stock alt is a sink facuet. If your faucet had the pressure of a fire hose it would punch a hole in your sink."

Another falsehood, first off the pressure in a firehose and your sink are equal or very close - there is a reason you use schedule 40 PVC or better in your house. The difference is the VOLUME of water being propelled.

this is just wildly inaccurate
 
Give the goat a break today...

really.jpg
 
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