Why don't tranny pans have a drain hole?

please tell me how your going to install a intercooler line onto a bottom pan? these lines would be ripped out if you ever bottom out,or from road debries. As for threads melting bs,your transmission temps shouldn't reach above 300F, which at that temp its more than likely burning your clutches. please show me a transmission that gets hot enough to melt threads when 90% of them have rubber somewhere along their cooler lines. Also a cooler needs line pressure to cycle the fluid through, which your pan has 0 pressure.
And here is another retarrd.. as for the last parts of what you said.

Transmission fluid cycles thru the transmission... Then around the gearing and clutch... Then OH MY GOD BACK TO THE PAN!!!

The transmission may not be hot to the touch, but that fluid that cycles gets to the bolt causing excessive heat to solder the bolt to the PAN.

 
Next time run your car/truck hard like if you are racing...

Then touch your transmission, you may be able to bare the heat. Now touch your trans pan, let me know if you can take the heat.

 
And here is another retarrd.. as for the last parts of what you said.
Transmission fluid cycles thru the transmission... Then around the gearing and clutch... Then OH MY GOD BACK TO THE PAN!!!

The transmission may not be hot to the touch, but that fluid that cycles gets to the bolt causing excessive heat to solder the bolt to the PAN.
funny it does not cycle straight back to the pan .it drips back down to the filter after entering the casing. your filter picks up fluid from the pan to the valve body which then starts the cycle. Once fluid is picked up, it cycles through your transmission and heads out to the cooler/radiator as most cars are ran through the radiator. After that the line pressure of fluid being fed throughout the transmission forces cooled fluid to return. If you do research most trans fluid breaks down after 300F. please do your reasearch before attacking people trying to give you knowledge. If a transmission ever gets hot enough to self weld the bolt, you should throw it away. Every seal, band, and clutch-pack will be destroyed.

 
also i can pull data logs of my trans temps and pictures of what the end results were from a max temp of 230f. Burnt fluid and metal shavings throughout my pan. My transmission was built to withstand 800whrp and I'm pushing 530 now. all because of a locked up triple disc convertor my transmission was toasted.

 
funny it does not cycle straight back to the pan a trans cooler.it drips back down to the filter after entering the casing. your filter ***** fluid from the pan to the valve body which then starts the cycle. Once fluid is picked up, it cycles through your transmission and heads out to the cooler/radiator as most cars are ran through the radiator. After that the line pressure of fluid being fed throughout the transmission forces cooled fluid to return. If you do research most trans fluid breaks down after 300F. please do your reasearch before attacking people trying to give you knowledge. If a transmission ever gets hot enough to self weld the bolt, you should throw it away. Every seal, band, and clutch-pack will be destroyed.
Yes this is why most racers stick to stock transmissions and dont get them built, because the radiator takes care of all fluid cooling to keep this from happening... I must be new to this..

Now, where do you keep getting 300F? I have not even mentioned a temp as to what the trans could possibly be running at. Fluid thats 210F or even 185F can weld a bolt.

Do you possibly think a stock radiator can keep all that fluid cooled fast enough? Basic knowledge for idiiots is the HARDER you press on that pedal that makes your car go "vroom vroom" the more pressure it creates making the fluid to cycle slower or faster.

Trans fluid is not as thick and tough as motor oil, trans fluid deteriorates quicker and heats faster this why you usually get clutch burning and fly wheels breaking. The standard motor can take heats up to 280F without an issue for small amounts of time due to the motor oil cools better.

 
not true at all go back to basics you pressing the throttle has no effect to transmission pressure.. theres line siolnoids that tell the transmission what pressure to build to. a fly wheel breaking because of transfluid, LMFAO. Show me where transfluid touches a flywheel ON ANY VEHICLE. i want to witness 180 temps weld a bolt. your clutch steels would be melting at the same time that bolt is being welded to the pan.i do not know any racer running stock transmissions unless they also have stock motors. only a few transmission out there can handle everything you throw at it from a factory.

 
Yes this is why most racers stick to stock transmissions and dont get them built, because the radiator takes care of all fluid cooling to keep this from happening... I must be new to this..
Now, where do you keep getting 300F? I have not even mentioned a temp as to what the trans could possibly be running at. Fluid thats 210F or even 185F can weld a bolt.

Do you possibly think a stock radiator can keep all that fluid cooled fast enough? Basic knowledge for idiiots is the HARDER you press on that pedal that makes your car go "vroom vroom" the more pressure it creates making the fluid to cycle slower or faster.

Trans fluid is not as thick and tough as motor oil, trans fluid deteriorates quicker and heats faster this why you usually get clutch burning and fly wheels breaking. The standard motor can take heats up to 280F without an issue for small amounts of time due to the motor oil cools better.
stop talking

 
not true at all go back to basics you pressing the throttle has no effect to transmission pressure.. theres line siolnoids that tell the transmission what pressure to build to. a fly wheel breaking because of transfluid, LMFAO. Show me where transfluid touches a flywheel ON ANY VEHICLE. i want to witness 180 temps weld a bolt. your clutch steels would be melting at the same time that bolt is being welded to the pan.i do not know any racer running stock transmissions unless they also have stock motors. only a few transmission out there can handle everything you throw at it from a factory.
Gm l80e transmissions can take the pain. Im bored of arguing with you.

You have a car/truck that has 500+ whp probably built in a shop. You have a very good knowledge of how components work, but you have not built your own transmission or motor to know the end results of certain environments.

If the clutch gets jammed due to trans fluid issues you can half way burn your clutch and it still be usable, but 99% of the time it will crack or break the fly wheel from impact.

Anyway the op asked why it did not come stock and i explained why it does not come stock.

In a regular race you will be shifting down and up constantly, this can ride hard on the transmission but still its not 100% common for failure.

Now in what you are explaining pertaining to your "vehicle", you ride the transmission very hard due to excessive up shifts causing the trans to strain.

Others do not gear like fast and furious to a red light in traffic.

Dragsters require pan plugs to fill new fluid after every few drag races to keep the transmission as cool as possible to avoid trans slip.

Sent from my draconis using Tapatalk

 
Yes this is why most racers stick to stock transmissions and dont get them built, because the radiator takes care of all fluid cooling to keep this from happening...
This is not going to end well.

This fool's running a Honda 2000 //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/fyi.gif.9f1f679348da7204ce960cfc74bca8e0.gif

 
This is not going to end well.
This fool's running a Honda 2000 //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/fyi.gif.9f1f679348da7204ce960cfc74bca8e0.gif
Those little vtecs are joke engines.. My last little galant with upper evo parts and eclipse trans 5 speed easily did 500+ whp and it was no little fart car likes them hondas.

My current 00 gmc sierra has a built trans and motor built ground up built for drag with my own 2 bare hands like the mighty zues i am..

Anyway ima stop posting in this topic haha these boyz dont know my main pineapple under the sea.

Sent from my draconis using Tapatalk

 
http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i256/facianecody/51427aa4-1e2d-40dd-9919-efb8fd2178c6_zpsmyofbin8.png because i know nothing. 4l80e won't even hold on turbo 5.3s. if your running a 4l60e built by you i don't consider your BUILT MOTOR worth while. your probably are running comp cams and different heads with a fast intake. theres no need to get into the bottom end on a vortec till around 700whrp. I'm not smart with car audio (thats why I'm on this forum) but, when it comes to mechanics I know what I'm doing.
 
Those little vtecs are joke engines.. My last little galant with upper evo parts and eclipse trans 5 speed easily did 500+ whp
Dyno sheet or lies //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/fyi.gif.9f1f679348da7204ce960cfc74bca8e0.gif

Edit: With username

 
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