Hi everyone. So I'm not much of an installation guy. I just buy and have a shop install them. That's exactly what I did this time. I purchased 2 ct sounds ozone 10 10" subs powered by a ct sounds ct-2000.1D 2000 Watts monoblock amp. I went to an audio shop and had them wire the entire system. Installed the amp, box, and subs and wired everything. They sounded great at the shop. After driving home for about 30 minutes one started to rattle when hitting hard then immediately shut off. My buddy checked it and the voice coil is demolished. The 2nd one sounds terrible now too with sodering coming off everywhere. I've included some pictures of the subs, setup, and problems. I hope someone can tell me what went wrong and if either they are just terrible subs or they wired it bad or the amp is too powerful etc. Etc.
Well I guess if you were there with a DMM measuring it, you know best. I'm sure there's some other explanation for OP burning up his subs besides giving them more power than they can handle.
That means your subs can handle whatever power you're giving them. OP, on the other hand has burned up his subs so I'd say that's evidence he put too much power into them, but carry on. All the suggestions so far only amount to "don't put so much power into them" anyway.
Tuning by ear is an art. I like HU's that have a separate subwoofer level setting. Max that thing out and then adjust the gain accordingly.
He didn't give them more power then they can handle. The installer wired everything to .5 ohm. The OP is lucky that the amp survived.
Clearly he gave them more power than they can handle. Not only were they wired to .5 ohm, the gain was maxxed on the amp and he had the bass boost turned up ~6db. I'm sure he was clipping the hell out of the amp.
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How do I know if I ruined the amp? It still powers on and I've tested 2 other 10s with the power down wired at 1 ohms with 2000 rms. However the amp runs extremely hot but never enters protect mode, doesn't shut off, and powers the system fine and don't hear any clipping or any on the meter. So I'm assuming the amp is still good but idk why it's getting so hot now. I am getting pretty good voltage drop like .3 to .5 per bass hit and if there's 3 or 4 in a row it'll go from 14 down to 12. I don't have any upgrades to the electrical as of now. Bass boost is now turned off with gain barely up and hu at 28/35 with bass knob half way. Enclosure is a little bit smaller than recommended. Subs are supposed to be at 1 cube feet but currently at .89 cube feet. Just wondering why the amp would be getting so hot. Could I have damaged it and the protection messed up where it isn't coming on now when necessary?
I doubt you ruined the amp. It's probably just hot because you're running a lot of power. I'd turn that bass knob down. +6db bass boost is the equivalent of asking the sub to quadruple power at the boosted frequencies.
The bass knob to the amp is a bass boost....
Id invest getting the Big 3 done and maybe a decent AGM battery (largest I could fit) and see if you may need to add other battery in line. Constantly running lower than recommended voltage is a real Amp Killer as well as a set of subs if you are not careful. Specs Im sure state 14.4v and prob a min of 12.5v. I have two of these amps. Ill have to look at the manual to confirm that though. If you can stay at 12v and up that would be great on your electrical
So then how did his coils burn open?
Some amps do get hot. May or may not be anything to worry about but generally the stuff inside an amp that can be hurt by heat can take an awful lot of it before it fails and in the old days when we all ran A/B amps they'd regularly get so hot you couldn't even put your hand on it. If you're worried about it make sure it's somewhere where it has a bit of open air around it.
You do not have proper electrical system to feed that amp. Do you have room for an additional battery? That's generally the cheapest and simplest upgrade.
I said that when we all assumed he was wired to one ohm. The OP then told us that he had D2 subs. Even at .5 ohm I bet that he wasn't clamping 2,000 watts which would be 1,000 watts per sub. I'm sure that those subs can handle 1,000 watts each if the rest of his settings were set right. He also could've been playing too low of a frequency for his setup. Don't you think that an 800 rms sub can handle 1,000 watts? My 4 little 8's are rated at 600 rms and I have a 3,500 watt amp on them. I've only smelt them once when I played a 32 hz. sign wave for a long time. I guess I'm overpowering my subs.
So buy one, put a 1000W sine wave into it and see if it survives 5 minutes. I've seen one of those CT subs (broken) and it was particularly poor build quality. I would say even the 800 "rated" is probably optimistic.
Is going to burn coils? Is even going to mechanically break those in a .67 cube sealed box?
1000W playing Mongolian throat yodeling or 1000W playing DJ Whalesong's 30hz clipped sine wave dubbed over some slowed down mumble rap?
I can assure you, if OP's subs could handle the 2000W amp he has right now we wouldn't have this thread.
Probably, but you appear to have at least figured out how to dial back on the volume knob before doing permanent damage.
That all said, where that tinsel failed looks to me like a manufacturing defect but I'd reserve my judgement unless I see pics of the coils, and OP did say his car stunk for days after this incident. And this, kids, is why you don't tell noobs to run more power than their speakers are rated.
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