Why did both of my brand new subs blow 1 hout after install?

[Kb1688]

Hi everyone. So I'm not much of an installation guy. I just buy and have a shop install them. That's exactly what I did this time. I purchased 2 ct sounds ozone 10 10" subs powered by a ct sounds ct-2000.1D 2000 Watts monoblock amp. I went to an audio shop and had them wire the entire system. Installed the amp, box, and subs and wired everything. They sounded great at the shop. After driving home for about 30 minutes one started to rattle when hitting hard then immediately shut off. My buddy checked it and the voice coil is demolished. The 2nd one sounds terrible now too with sodering coming off everywhere. I've included some pictures of the subs, setup, and problems. I hope someone can tell me what went wrong and if either they are just terrible subs or they wired it bad or the amp is too powerful etc. Etc.

 

[Coolhand20th]

Yep and as in the other thread you should have bought dual 4 ohm subwoofers. Ask them to send you a pair of those and then you can wire it for 1 ohm at the amplifier and it will get the most of it. I would reset all the eq settings and start over. Idk who did that install but reminds me of something best buy would do.

 

[Kb1688]

Yep and as in the other thread you should have bought dual 4 ohm subwoofers. Ask them to send you a pair of those and then you can wire it for 1 ohm at the amplifier and it will get the most of it. I would reset all the eq settings and start over. Idk who did that install but reminds me of something best buy would do.

I just ordered 4 ohm subs just now. Is the way I had the 2 ohm subs wired correct for these when I get them in? I have the connectors to the box on one side but on diagrams it's showing connect the positive from the box to one side and the negative from the box to other side of the sub. Is that correct? Or can the box connector go to the same coil?

 

[Coolhand20th]

Will post a link on how to wire dual 4 ohm subs with a 1 ohm load use option #1. Just do all the wiring inside the box with one set of wires going to the terminal and from the terminal to the amplifier. As thx said that amplifier is wired the same inside. Look in the directions it will say how to wire it at the amplifier.

Subwoofer Wiring Diagrams for Two 4 Ohm Dual Voice Coil Speakers

www.the12volt.com

 

[Kb1688]

Will post a link on how to wire dual 4 ohm subs with a 1 ohm load use option #1. Just do all the wiring inside the box with one set of wires going to the terminal and from the terminal to the amplifier. As thx said that amplifier is wired the same inside. Look in the directions it will say how to wire it at the amplifier.

Subwoofer Wiring Diagrams for Two 4 Ohm Dual Voice Coil Speakers

www.the12volt.com

Thanks man. Now I just need to learn how to retune the amp and set my equalizer on my stereo cuz I have no clue there either.

 

[Coolhand20th]

Lots of videos out there. Look at steve meades website for the test tones he has them for free to download.

 

[Bobbytwonames]

He put 2000W into two 800W rated woofers. Not sure why this is so mystifying for everyone here.
If you are burning up voice coils it's because you're putting heat into them faster than they can dissipate it, or in other words, giving them too much power.

He was probably only clamping 1,200 watts. That's 600 watts per sub. They shouldn't have blown. My 4 - 8's are rated at 600 rms each so 2,400 watts total and I have a 3,500 watt Sundown amp powering them (875 watts each). I've never even smelt my subs. The OP's tune is way off somewhere.

 

[Bobbytwonames]

Thanks man. Now I just need to learn how to retune the amp and set my equalizer on my stereo cuz I have no clue there either.

What headunit do you have?

 

[Bobbytwonames]

Warranty department just told me they wired them at .5 ohms which caused clipping and blew the subs that the amp settings nor the subs were the problem

Did you buy dual 4 ohm subs or dual two ohm subs?

 

[staan]

something was wired wrong because the sub on the right is having waay more excursion than the one on the left in the video and its looks like you were reaching the mechanical limit on excursion.

 

[Jimi77]

The sub with the busted lead either exceeded xmax or had a faulty solder joint. Assuming the subs share airspace once one sub goes everything goes to shyt because you basically double your airspace for the good sub and the busted sub begins to function as a passive radiator. Once that happens, the other sub is doomed too because it's mechanical power handle will drop off dramatically due to the additional airspace. That's why many people build enclosures with separate chambers....

Gain looks maxed out on the amp - very bad. You were clipping and that gain setting has a lot to do with it.

Next, you have the bass boost cranked up ~6db at 30db, so you basically quadrupling power at 30hz, which leads to massive clipping and dead subs. Assuming the enclosure is sealed, you're asking for a lot of excursion from a sub that has a mediocre xmax. Again assuming this is a sealed set-up, why are running those subs? You could run subs in the ~3-500wrms range and get the same output, maybe even greater output, since many 12s would fit in the same airspace. Xmax determines output in sealed enclosures, not power handling.

Back to the massive clipping issue. So we've got the amp gain set way too high. We're asking the amp to quadruple power output at ~30 hz, which leads to even more clipping. I'm guess other bass boost features were turned up on the HU, which adds even more clipping. Then there is the fact that you ran the subs at .5 ohms, which pulled even more power from the amp.

I'd guess you smoked sub #1 with massive clipping distortion and way way way too much power. Somehow sub #2 survived this abuse as did the amp. Luckily for the amp, sub #1 died, which in turn reduced the load the load on the amp and possibly saving the amp's life. However, once sub #1 died, sub #2's mechanical power handling was compromised by the increased box size (not to mention the possibility that sub #1 was acting as a passive radiator tuned to a high frequency and you're boosting low frequencies) so it exceeds xmax and yanks that tinsel lead off the terminal. I'd call it use error and if they set the gain and bass boost, installer error too. As a matter of fact they should have wired the subs to a 2 ohm load, the subs would have reached xmax with that power and everything would be good right now.

If you're chasing output, then I'd rethink that enclosure and the subwoofer enclosure. Those subs in a sealed enclosure won't get louder than my single 10" MK1 Adire Brahma off 1000wrms in 1/4 the airspace. IMHO, you're (probably) wasting airspace and/or power. Get something like a singe 12" Exo (or look at Sundown, Incrimator, Sound Solutions) and put it in ~2 cuft ported. If you're running out of space, then look at Earthquakes SLAPs passive radiators. Just keep in mind subs unload even faster when using a passives vs ports, so you have to set your SSF really tight.

Additionally, you would have had massive clipping distortion from the amp and massive distortion due to the subs exceeding xmax. You've got to learn what distortion sounds like and stop listening to it. Distortion is bad juju.

 

[Bobbytwonames]

The sub with the busted lead either exceeded xmax or had a faulty solder joint. Assuming the subs share airspace once one sub goes everything goes to shyt because you basically double your airspace for the good sub and the busted sub begins to function as a passive radiator. Once that happens, the other sub is doomed too because it's mechanical power handle will drop off dramatically due to the additional airspace. That's why many people build enclosures with separate chambers....

Gain looks maxed out on the amp - very bad. You were clipping and that gain setting has a lot to do with it.

Next, you have the bass boost cranked up ~6db at 30db, so you basically quadrupling power at 30hz, which leads to massive clipping and dead subs. Assuming the enclosure is sealed, you're asking for a lot of excursion from a sub that has a mediocre xmax. Again assuming this is a sealed set-up, why are running those subs? You could run subs in the ~3-500wrms range and get the same output, maybe even greater output, since many 12s would fit in the same airspace. Xmax determines output in sealed enclosures, not power handling.

Back to the massive clipping issue. So we've got the amp gain set way too high. We're asking the amp to quadruple power output at ~30 hz, which leads to even more clipping. I'm guess other bass boost features were turned up on the HU, which adds even more clipping. Then there is the fact that you ran the subs at .5 ohms, which pulled even more power from the amp.

I'd guess you smoked sub #1 with massive clipping distortion and way way way too much power. Somehow sub #2 survived this abuse as did the amp. Luckily for the amp, sub #1 died, which in turn reduced the load the load on the amp and possibly saving the amp's life. However, once sub #1 died, sub #2's mechanical power handling was compromised by the increased box size (not to mention the possibility that sub #1 was acting as a passive radiator tuned to a high frequency and you're boosting low frequencies) so it exceeds xmax and yanks that tinsel lead off the terminal. I'd call it use error and if they set the gain and bass boost, installer error too. As a matter of fact they should have wired the subs to a 2 ohm load, the subs would have reached xmax with that power and everything would be good right now.

If you're chasing output, then I'd rethink that enclosure and the subwoofer enclosure. Those subs in a sealed enclosure won't get louder than my single 10" MK1 Adire Brahma off 1000wrms in 1/4 the airspace. IMHO, you're (probably) wasting airspace and/or power. Get something like a singe 12" Exo (or look at Sundown, Incrimator, Sound Solutions) and put it in ~2 cuft ported. If you're running out of space, then look at Earthquakes SLAPs passive radiators. Just keep in mind subs unload even faster when using a passives vs ports, so you have to set your SSF really tight.

Additionally, you would have had massive clipping distortion from the amp and massive distortion due to the subs exceeding xmax. You've got to learn what distortion sounds like and stop listening to it. Distortion is bad juju.

A halfway decent installer would've wired the subs to two ohms. The bright side is that the amp is capable of running at .5 ohm. I think the installer should eat at least half of the cost for new subs unless the OP said to wire it to .5 ohm.

 

[audiobaun]

I have two of these sub amps along with the 150.4amplifier and theyre EQ. This 2k is a really powerful amp for what it is. Its a beast. Those subs are great subs as well wired correctly and tuned properly in an enclosure. I give my subs at least 3 weeks to loosen up then Tune the amplifier again. I have had one on a pair of 12"XFL DVC 4 ohm subs @1 ohm load and a single XFL 12 DVC2 sub. That amp gets down as well as the subs. CT Sounds make really great gear for the money and Excellent Customer Service. I also have a pair of S.Qubed DVC 2 ohm HDS310s in 4.0@32 Htz and going to place those in soon for temp set up @2 ohms.Its a great amplifier, those subs are really nice subs too.Just a poor decision to run those subs @0.50 Ohms especially if that cars existing Electrical hasnt been upgraded (Big 3 as well as battery bank on tap and maybe a larger aftermarket Alternator)? As Ive said in so many post on this site.. " It Takes Power To Make Power". Thats a hell of an amp to take the 0.50 ohm load and still working. Run the proper Ohm load specified for the amplifier or do not and cook that amplifier and VOID the Warranty and have a Door Prop.You lost the Warranty on the subs By CT Sounds with the improper ohm load. That shop installed incorrectly and should replace those subs at no charge;

 

[audiobaun]

Without any electrical upgrades.You can run into some issues with Low Voltage and can Ruin and Damage an amplifier and or amplifiers. Running @2ohm load is easier on the electrical and most amplifiers and can be just as impressive and perform well.Everyone wants to run @1ohm or 0.05 ohm loads but do not realize that electrical upgrades are generally needed as most vehicles these days are TAXED OUT to save money on the vehicle build.I have a pair of tens stated above that sound like a pair of most peoples12s and 15s running @a 2 ohm load that around 1500-2k rms will and can do some serious vehicle flex issues.Get the proper subs and properly tuned enclosure to get to the final ohm load to match the amplifier and to meet your vehicles electrical system to maintain the correct voltage.

 

[audiobaun]

Im sure that you can find a Recone kit for those subs as well. May have to contact CT Sounds for them if you can not locate on the Website. Those are really nice subs in the correct enclosure

 

[metalheadjoe]

He put 2000W into two 800W rated woofers. Not sure why this is so mystifying for everyone here.
If you are burning up voice coils it's because you're putting heat into them faster than they can dissipate it, or in other words, giving them too much power.

My three 1500w drivers are powered by an HCCA5k (birthsheet 5900 at 1ohm, wired to 0.66ohms) without issue. Is that "mystifying" to you? Why don't you present your opinion without trying to sound like the all-knowing?

The sub with the busted lead either exceeded xmax or had a faulty solder joint. Assuming the subs share airspace once one sub goes everything goes to shyt because you basically double your airspace for the good sub and the busted sub begins to function as a passive radiator. Once that happens, the other sub is doomed too because it's mechanical power handle will drop off dramatically due to the additional airspace. That's why many people build enclosures with separate chambers....

The busted lead has nothing to do with xmax. Woven leads have lots of extra slack beween the spider and terminals. Possibly bad solder joint, but looks more like they wire broke. The conductor likely overheated.
Depends how the sub fails. Sometimes they seize. An unpowered driver is more restrictive than a passive radiator.