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Wiring, Electrical & Installation
What am I missing for my sub/amp installation
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<blockquote data-quote="HardofWhoring" data-source="post: 8828055" data-attributes="member: 674149"><p>Sounds like you've done your research, and have a pretty good idea of what you need to do. Kudos, most people don't make the effort.</p><p></p><p>A 2ch amp would work, but a mono one ch amp is going to be built better for larger power. A mono amp can only run in mono. A 2ch amp can run in stereo, its not something you need for subs. (If you are old enough to know black and white tvs, then around that time they had mono or stereo settings). If you think of it like surround sound on a tv, its basically adding left and right (stereo) vs adding a front center (mono).</p><p></p><p>That single voice coil sub is kind of throwing a small monkey wrench into it. Keep in mind that is also a single voice coil 4 ohm sub. That is something that would usually be wired up with at least a second sub so it can be wired down to 2 ohms. You can obviously find an amp, but you are going to be limited. 400w will work, but if you are here right now, you could do as high 550w comfortably if you can find one @4ohm.</p><p></p><p>Your power wire that comes off the battery for the subs should be fused as close as possible to the battery. 12-18" is the max, but you want it as close as possible, and you can find fused battery terminals. The point of that fuse is, is to fuse the cable. If you do it 18" after the battery then you have 18" of cable that is not protected. As far as the fuse, your amp should have it's own fuse on the amp. If the amp says it can do 75amp fuses, then fuse the cable at 1 or 2 steps higher. Unless you dial in and know exactly what its pushing fuse the cable about 15% higher (as long as the cable is rated for it, ex. for 75 amp I would fuse the cable at 100amps).</p><p></p><p>The fuses are just style preference. For that wattage, it's pretty much which ever you want.</p><p></p><p>That Pa4bx kit, has everything to get the amp powered. You would just need speaker wire.</p><p></p><p>If you have a 400watt amp, its going to be usually 80-90% efficient, (meaning if its putting out 400 watts, at 80% efficient its drawing and using 500watts. 400w /.80 = 500. They are generally about 85% efficient which is 470 watts. 470 / 14.4v = 32 amps being drawn by that 400 watt amp. Amps aren't going to be exact either. That RF is probably pretty close, but you have to give it a little room if you aren't using a multimeter and dialing it in exact. Not sure about your Honda, but in general I'm thinking they have smaller electrical setups, especially one from 92, but I'm sure yours isn't original any more. Basically, if you get this all hooked up, do the big 3 wiring off the battery, and then your headlights dim on bass hits, then your battery is not able to keep up with the draw. If you run it at high for hours and after some time your voltage starts dropping, then your alternator can't keep up. I would definitely do what you have planned first and see how its working before upgrading electrical. Many vehicles wouldn't need to upgrade for that.</p><p></p><p></p><p>I know you probably don't want to hear it, but back to that sub being 4 ohms. You could buy that same sub in a 2 ohm for the same price as that amp. You could then sell that sub you have, (probably pretty quick), and get an amp that will run at 2ohms. That way you would at least be able to still use same enclosure. You might be able to find the 2 ohm sub on ebay or around the boards for about half too. If you can find an amp that pushes out more than 500w RMS AT 4 OHMS, then you can always dial it down. The 400w amp will work, but at the very least, I promise you this is the time to think about it before you buy the amp. Figure out the cost, and I would bet anything if you sell your amp, you can get a better amp for that sub and all in be about the same. Not the most fun choice, but ....</p><p></p><p> <strong>Otherwise if you like RF amps, </strong>why is the T750X1BD not the amp you're going with? I've had one of these style amps. They have their own clip indicator light so you can properly set the gain without any other tools.</p><p><a href="https://rockfordfosgate.com/products/details/t750x1bd/" target="_blank">Power 750 Watt Class-bd Mono Amplifier| Rockford Fosgate ®</a> (crutchfield is backordered)</p><p><a href="https://www.woofersetc.com/rockford-fosgate-t750x1bd-monoblock-750-watts-rms-class-bd-power-series-ultra-compact-amplifier.html" target="_blank">Rockford Fosgate T750X1BD Monoblock 750 Watts RMS Class BD Power Series Ultra Compact Motorcycle Amplifier (woofersetc.com)</a></p><p></p><p>If you're still looking for amps, look for the companies that make SMART amps. JL audio and taramps are two that I know of. They will push the same wattage at different ohm ratings, and probably your best chance to expand your search.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="HardofWhoring, post: 8828055, member: 674149"] Sounds like you've done your research, and have a pretty good idea of what you need to do. Kudos, most people don't make the effort. A 2ch amp would work, but a mono one ch amp is going to be built better for larger power. A mono amp can only run in mono. A 2ch amp can run in stereo, its not something you need for subs. (If you are old enough to know black and white tvs, then around that time they had mono or stereo settings). If you think of it like surround sound on a tv, its basically adding left and right (stereo) vs adding a front center (mono). That single voice coil sub is kind of throwing a small monkey wrench into it. Keep in mind that is also a single voice coil 4 ohm sub. That is something that would usually be wired up with at least a second sub so it can be wired down to 2 ohms. You can obviously find an amp, but you are going to be limited. 400w will work, but if you are here right now, you could do as high 550w comfortably if you can find one @4ohm. Your power wire that comes off the battery for the subs should be fused as close as possible to the battery. 12-18" is the max, but you want it as close as possible, and you can find fused battery terminals. The point of that fuse is, is to fuse the cable. If you do it 18" after the battery then you have 18" of cable that is not protected. As far as the fuse, your amp should have it's own fuse on the amp. If the amp says it can do 75amp fuses, then fuse the cable at 1 or 2 steps higher. Unless you dial in and know exactly what its pushing fuse the cable about 15% higher (as long as the cable is rated for it, ex. for 75 amp I would fuse the cable at 100amps). The fuses are just style preference. For that wattage, it's pretty much which ever you want. That Pa4bx kit, has everything to get the amp powered. You would just need speaker wire. If you have a 400watt amp, its going to be usually 80-90% efficient, (meaning if its putting out 400 watts, at 80% efficient its drawing and using 500watts. 400w /.80 = 500. They are generally about 85% efficient which is 470 watts. 470 / 14.4v = 32 amps being drawn by that 400 watt amp. Amps aren't going to be exact either. That RF is probably pretty close, but you have to give it a little room if you aren't using a multimeter and dialing it in exact. Not sure about your Honda, but in general I'm thinking they have smaller electrical setups, especially one from 92, but I'm sure yours isn't original any more. Basically, if you get this all hooked up, do the big 3 wiring off the battery, and then your headlights dim on bass hits, then your battery is not able to keep up with the draw. If you run it at high for hours and after some time your voltage starts dropping, then your alternator can't keep up. I would definitely do what you have planned first and see how its working before upgrading electrical. Many vehicles wouldn't need to upgrade for that. I know you probably don't want to hear it, but back to that sub being 4 ohms. You could buy that same sub in a 2 ohm for the same price as that amp. You could then sell that sub you have, (probably pretty quick), and get an amp that will run at 2ohms. That way you would at least be able to still use same enclosure. You might be able to find the 2 ohm sub on ebay or around the boards for about half too. If you can find an amp that pushes out more than 500w RMS AT 4 OHMS, then you can always dial it down. The 400w amp will work, but at the very least, I promise you this is the time to think about it before you buy the amp. Figure out the cost, and I would bet anything if you sell your amp, you can get a better amp for that sub and all in be about the same. Not the most fun choice, but .... [B]Otherwise if you like RF amps, [/B]why is the T750X1BD not the amp you're going with? I've had one of these style amps. They have their own clip indicator light so you can properly set the gain without any other tools. [URL='https://rockfordfosgate.com/products/details/t750x1bd/']Power 750 Watt Class-bd Mono Amplifier| Rockford Fosgate ®[/URL] (crutchfield is backordered) [URL='https://www.woofersetc.com/rockford-fosgate-t750x1bd-monoblock-750-watts-rms-class-bd-power-series-ultra-compact-amplifier.html']Rockford Fosgate T750X1BD Monoblock 750 Watts RMS Class BD Power Series Ultra Compact Motorcycle Amplifier (woofersetc.com)[/URL] If you're still looking for amps, look for the companies that make SMART amps. JL audio and taramps are two that I know of. They will push the same wattage at different ohm ratings, and probably your best chance to expand your search. [/QUOTE]
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What am I missing for my sub/amp installation
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