Vocals out of taramps amp

So that's your 2nd best recommendation? Even though you just **** all over it? or are you referencing:



No one is arguing an aftermarket HU wouldn't be better. It will and I'm saying you're right! I'm also telling you as an owner, what is practical and usable for other 2013+ FCA owners. You may consider it "****" and for someone with your experience and your sig build, I can see why you'd think that. What I'm saying is there are thousands if not 10's of thousands of FCA owners running AP4's, LCi's or DSR's and are quite happy with them. From shitbox 20k Renegades to 100k SRT Hellcats.

oops i actually put the other comment inside my comment its the last parts literally anything the pac or the maestro over another audiocontrol crap product. Those products actually just get a flat unadulterated signal to your processing. I trashed the dsr1 for a good reason my group and I were the earliest adopters and that was a whole year of buggy ass bluetooth connection and software bugs. Definitely the pac pro plus a dayton DSP over all that headache or skip the head unit altogether. Meaning just play music straight to the USB dongle on the dayton. Cleanest signal you can get. All the tuning is on your phone app. No need to mess with the factory head unit or take it out or anything. Just need to wire your whole audio system to your amps, and straight to your dsp.

19965
 
So the dsr1 with meastro harness will do the trick right? It's that or the Dayton ? Which idk what the Dayton even is but the maestro and dsr1 will cost me about 300 usd .
I don't care about buggy Bluetooth I'm pretty well going to set it and forget it and use the bass knob .
 
So the dsr1 with meastro harness will do the trick right? It's that or the Dayton ? Which idk what the Dayton even is but the maestro and dsr1 will cost me about 300 usd .
I don't care about buggy Bluetooth I'm pretty well going to set it and forget it and use the bass knob .
it doesnt work like that lol. sometimes the unit just craps on itself and you need to remove the harness and all power sources to reset. Sometimes you lose all your settings, time alignment values go inverted, app crashes when you need to tune, initial start up to tune takes forever because the unit just does not link with the phone till 2 hours of trying to get it to work later... just to name a few. we had 4 dsr1 units in our group, they all shared the same issues within 1 year of ownership and only two made it past 1 year of ownership, two randomly died.

I'd defiintely go with the pac pro with dayton dsp over the dsr1. Dayton DSP is vastly superior to the rockford dsr1 never had a single issue like I did with the dsr1.
 
oops i actually put the other comment inside my comment its the last parts literally anything the pac or the maestro over another audiocontrol crap product. Those products actually just get a flat unadulterated signal to your processing. I trashed the dsr1 for a good reason my group and I were the earliest adopters and that was a whole year of buggy ass bluetooth connection and software bugs. Definitely the pac pro plus a dayton DSP over all that headache or skip the head unit altogether. Meaning just play music straight to the USB dongle on the dayton. Cleanest signal you can get. All the tuning is on your phone app. No need to mess with the factory head unit or take it out or anything. Just need to wire your whole audio system to your amps, and straight to your dsp.

Ahh I see it on your previous comment now (y) - PAC with Dayton 408 - I agree.

So the dsr1 with meastro harness will do the trick right? It's that or the Dayton ? Which idk what the Dayton even is but the maestro and dsr1 will cost me about 300 usd .
I don't care about buggy Bluetooth I'm pretty well going to set it and forget it and use the bass knob .

No, consensus I believe is PAC AP4 Amp Pro with a Dayton DSP 408. Run that to your amps. (Jeff, fee free to correct me If I got that wrong)

Cleanest possible signal would then be to connect your phone directly to the DSP 408 and play music from there. YMMV as I would do something similar but play most stuff through stock HU to keep my SiriusXM and music controls on my steering wheel.
 
Ahh I see it on your previous comment now (y) - PAC with Dayton 408 - I agree.



No, consensus I believe is PAC AP4 Amp Pro with a Dayton DSP 408. Run that to your amps. (Jeff, fee free to correct me If I got that wrong)

Cleanest possible signal would then be to connect your phone directly to the DSP 408 and play music from there. YMMV as I would do something similar but play most stuff through stock HU to keep my SiriusXM and music controls on my steering wheel.
Gotcha, I like using the stereo to switch songs etc
 
Ahh I see it on your previous comment now (y) - PAC with Dayton 408 - I agree.




play most stuff through stock HU to keep my SiriusXM
Have you ever tried the app? When I switch from their tuner to the app there's a very noticeable sq improvement. I wouldn't even use the tuner if I wasn't on the road all day.
Idk I'm changing some speakers and adding a 408 soon so maybe I'll have a little better luck with it. As of right now I either have to start the day out listening to it or take a break between using the phone. All my music apps and their own app sounds better in both my vehicles.
Seems very compressed through the tuner
 
Have you ever tried the app? When I switch from their tuner to the app there's a very noticeable sq improvement. I wouldn't even use the tuner if I wasn't on the road all day.
Idk I'm changing some speakers and adding a 408 soon so maybe I'll have a little better luck with it. As of right now I either have to start the day out listening to it or take a break between using the phone. All my music apps and their own app sounds better in both my vehicles.
Seems very compressed through the tuner

yeah this is what I was getting at with the stock head unit complete bypass. Because the app is streaming straight to the dsp you are using the high quality 24 bit dacs of the dsp vs the shitty garbage dacs of the head unit that passes through the dsp. Whats the difference if it both goes to the dsp? one is the DSP is the orginating point, While the other the stock head unit is the one that builds the signal. The initial signal is the base for everything that is to come in your setup. People think a flat signal is just a flat signal but there's way more to that. There's a lot of information and detail that an RTA wont show. Its resolution which is a vital part in SQ. Hence why i trashed the LC7i earlier. You are subjected to all the flaws of the stock head unit with no upside potential.
 
The Dayton dsp 408 is out of my price range so I think I'll go with the dsr1 lol

Start with the PAC AP4 for now then, and get the 408 later when you can afford it. Will be a much better experience than the DSR1 and the Amp Pro is only $10 more.

Have you ever tried the app? When I switch from their tuner to the app there's a very noticeable sq improvement. I wouldn't even use the tuner if I wasn't on the road all day.
Idk I'm changing some speakers and adding a 408 soon so maybe I'll have a little better luck with it. As of right now I either have to start the day out listening to it or take a break between using the phone. All my music apps and their own app sounds better in both my vehicles.
Seems very compressed through the tuner

I have no experience with DSP's or running an active sound stage. Most I've ever gone into 'SQ' is full Boston Acoustic components, 4 Channel V12 and a mono V12 running 2 ported MTX 10's. This was 20 years ago now and FWIW I was impressed by it. I've never put a huge amount of money into car stereo, just enough that is provides clear "balanced" sound over my exhaust. Most of my money goes into the mechanical/performance side of a vehicle. I'm not a huge SQ guy because all of that is a waste in the type of vehicles I drive. Might work for the Cummins but even that will be getting DPF deleted and turbo-backed soon enough.
 
legit had setups that had A JL FIX de equalize the factory signal and signal summed everything, some setups that had signal summed wires from stock head unit, some with LOC to dsp, The maestro setup etc... all sounded okay and livable. However You throw the setup in with a dayton DSP with bluetooth dongle and streamed directly to the bluetooth dongle without any connection to the stock head unit, it blew all the old setups with much higher grade DSPs connected to the stock head unit out the water. Because the signal source is right from the DSP with the audiophile grade dacs, not the stock head unit with far below average consumer grade dacs.
 
Start with the PAC AP4 for now then, and get the 408 later when you can afford it. Will be a much better experience than the DSR1 and the Amp Pro is only $10 more.



I have no experience with DSP's or running an active sound stage. Most I've ever gone into 'SQ' is full Boston Acoustic components, 4 Channel V12 and a mono V12 running 2 ported MTX 10's. This was 20 years ago now and FWIW I was impressed by it. I've never put a huge amount of money into car stereo, just enough that is provides clear "balanced" sound over my exhaust. Most of my money goes into the mechanical/performance side of a vehicle. I'm not a huge SQ guy because all of that is a waste in the type of vehicles I drive. Might work for the Cummins but even that will be getting DPF deleted and turbo-backed soon enough.
V12 alpine?
Oh so your the guy blowing black smoke all over the place lol
 
The Dayton dsp 408 is out of my price range so I think I'll go with the dsr1 lol
the dayton is 150 with the pac being 280. The dsr1 is 270 and the idata link maestro is 150 what? 10 dollars more for a much more reliable quality unit with better features and software is out of your price range? You cant just buy the rockford alone, you need the maestro unit for another 150 dude.
 
I thought the dsr1 was sub 270? Maybe not with the integration harness but sub 200.

I've had little to no issues with my dsr1 since I've had it set up. Getting it set up however, was ********.

It's not even 4x8, it's 4x7. They software locked 7/8 to be considered one channel. It's beyond stupid.
 
V12 alpine?
Oh so your the guy blowing black smoke all over the place lol

Ya V12 Alpine and no blowing black smoke is the mechanical equivalent of putting a Pyle amp on a Fi Audio sub.

It happens all the time in the mechanical mod world for the same exact reasons, people want to make more power without the proper budget to do so and then properly tune the engine correctly. Black smoke in the Diesel world 99% of the time is someone just fuel dumping to try and get power without actually building a matched turbo, compound setup, and other supporting mods with a good tune. Just like everything else there are outliers but there are alot of "coal rollers" on 12" lift and 37" tires giving us a bad name because they just bought an Edge or Bully Dog and set it to "5" without anything else.
 
I thought the dsr1 was sub 270? Maybe not with the integration harness but sub 200.

I've had little to no issues with my dsr1 since I've had it set up. Getting it set up however, was ********.

It's not even 4x8, it's 4x7. They software locked 7/8 to be considered one channel. It's beyond stupid.
oh its 240 on amazon. I just looked on the side after a quick search, didnt really check. Its been awhile since you got yours man, inflation has had plenty of time to kick in :ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO:

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