Vocals out of taramps amp

yeah but only 50hz same issue the op of that thread has. nothing lower than that strong as it should. why? because stock head units have built in high pass filters that makes your signal completely cut off in the lower frequencies. All the op of the other thread did was swap the head unit and finally got a full range signal and he got everything he wanted and then more. Signal is more important than anything and stock head unit signal is pretty much the worst garbage signal out there and garbage in, garbage out, doesnt matter how good your gear is, on a stock head unit with no processing just an LOC, you cannot expect anything worth while. The head unit signal IS THAT important.
Understood, hope the Rockford fosgate dsr1 will do everything I need it to
 
Another 8.4 owner here - Where did your installer connect the LOC? If you have or had a factory Alpine system I've heard the only full range signal speaker in the whole truck is rear doors. Non-Alpine I'm not sure but the Ramforum has a TON of threads about integrating aftermarket with the 8.4 Alpine or not. Might recommend swapping your LOC for a LC2i or LC7i depending on your needs, they seem to play nice with the 8.4's weird outputs.
 
Another 8.4 owner here - Where did your installer connect the LOC? If you have or had a factory Alpine system I've heard the only full range signal speaker in the whole truck is rear doors. Non-Alpine I'm not sure but the Ramforum has a TON of threads about integrating aftermarket with the 8.4 Alpine or not. Might recommend swapping your LOC for a LC2i or LC7i depending on your needs, they seem to play nice with the 8.4's weird outputs.
The loc is in my glovebox area..from speakers wires of stereo to resistors..to amp and back to stereo I think is how he told me he did it.

I don't have alpine system
 
hopefully you get the maestro connection working flawlessly. The DSR1 is extremely buggy with unstable bluetooth connection.
It has improved significantly, but still ***** compared to the dayton (from what I've heard, anyway). I set mine and left it. Every now and then I'll just a few things but when I put the anarchy's in my doors I was adjusted the low end for a few days due to way too much power and never had an issue.
 
It has improved significantly, but still ***** compared to the dayton (from what I've heard, anyway). I set mine and left it. Every now and then I'll just a few things but when I put the anarchy's in my doors I was adjusted the low end for a few days due to way too much power and never had an issue.
Do you recommend the dsr1 is that what your using ?
 
What maestro connection? All I have is these resistors and loc.
Could you make some suggestions for me ?

I think Jeff is referencing the DSR1 if you install it: https://maestro.idatalink.com/product/product/product_id/574

As someone who has done a ton of research on what to do with my Ram, here is my recommendation.

Best option: remove LOC's and install this: https://pac-audio.com/2019/07/15/ap4-ch41-now-compatible-with-non-amplified-factory-systems/

This integrates directly into the Uconnect and keeps all of the proper signals in place while providing the pre-outs you need for your amplifiers.

2nd best option: Remove LOC's and replace them with a LC7i. This doesn't integrate as nicely into the Uconnect but is widely used for 8.4 owners looking to add amplifiers with great success.
 
I think Jeff is referencing the DSR1 if you install it: https://maestro.idatalink.com/product/product/product_id/574

As someone who has done a ton of research on what to do with my Ram, here is my recommendation.

Best option: remove LOC's and install this: https://pac-audio.com/2019/07/15/ap4-ch41-now-compatible-with-non-amplified-factory-systems/

This integrates directly into the Uconnect and keeps all of the proper signals in place while providing the pre-outs you need for your amplifiers.

2nd best option: Remove LOC's and replace them with a LC7i. This doesn't integrate as nicely into the Uconnect but is widely used for 8.4 owners looking to add amplifiers with great success.
Thanks, the best option seems pretty much the dsr1, it has all EQ and crossover settings in it, how is the PAC any better ?
 
Thanks, the best option seems pretty much the dsr1, it has all EQ and crossover settings in it, how is the PAC any better ?

Removed original video as it doesn't compare DSR1 - Here's a thread from Shoforum talking about the differences:

 
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I think Jeff is referencing the DSR1 if you install it: https://maestro.idatalink.com/product/product/product_id/574

As someone who has done a ton of research on what to do with my Ram, here is my recommendation.

Best option: remove LOC's and install this: https://pac-audio.com/2019/07/15/ap4-ch41-now-compatible-with-non-amplified-factory-systems/

This integrates directly into the Uconnect and keeps all of the proper signals in place while providing the pre-outs you need for your amplifiers.

2nd best option: Remove LOC's and replace them with a LC7i. This doesn't integrate as nicely into the Uconnect but is widely used for 8.4 owners looking to add amplifiers with great success.

lci7 is the exact same as the LOC. Just because its audiocontrol doesnt mean its going to be any better. You are still dealing with the same cutoff signal. All the accubass crap is a glorified bass boost. It does not restore any signal at all. You are still stuck amplifying the garbage stock head unit signal which now just gets you louder garbage. Vs a clean high bitrate full range signal from a good dac.

The pac pro is good if you pair it with a dayton DSP 408. I'd take that over a rockford dsr1 anyday. I've used both.

OP: you can also skip the factory head unit completely and just stream music straight to the DSP if you dont want to spend money on all that junk.
 
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lci7 is the exact same as the LOC. Just because its audiocontrol doesnt mean its going to be any better. You are still dealing with the same cutoff signal. All the accubass crap is a glorified bass boost. It does not restore any signal at all. You are still stuck amplifying the garbage stock head unit signal which now just gets you louder garbage. Vs a clean high bitrate full range signal from a good dac.

You're saying replace the 8.4 Uconnect, problem is these Uconnects are integrated into the BCM's and control just about every setting for the vehicle- chimes, warnings, lights, HVAC and a bunch of other vehicle settings that cannot be controlled anywhere else. He would then have to get an Alpha OBD with a laptop sitting on the passenger seat or other aftermarket controllers/harnesses to try and get any of those controls back. Which none of them are permanent solutions, only OBD controllers that you would disconnect once done editing settings. This is completely impractical for almost all newer FCA (2013+ Fiat, Chrysler, Dodge, Ram, Jeep) owners.

Musically the best option is getting rid of the 8.4 and getting something aftermarket. Due to all of the reasons stated above for its impracticality in a newer FCA vehicle what would you recommend as a "second best" option?
 
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Some examples of what my 8.4 controls in my 2500:

All steering wheel controls
Cargo and backup cam
Driver/Passenger heated/cooled seats
Heated steering wheel
Mirror dimmer controls
Sirius XM Travel Link/weather/fuel pricing
Onboard hotspot
Front and Rear parking sensor controls
TPMS
Exterior and Interior vehicle lighting controls
Door lock controls/behavior
Auto-On comfort controls for HVAC/seats/steering wheel
Engine off safety/light controls
Trailer brake settings

19960

19961

19962

19963


There is no other HU on the market that will integrate with all of these controls without a bunch of adapters, harness work, hacking or some other BCM modifications through Alpha OBD. Any of which that splice into the harness, eliminates the factory warranty and if you screw it up? You're completely screwed, requiring the purchase of a new ECM/BCM or both for thousands of dollars. The closest option might be the Tesla style 10.4" Android's that can be retrofitted but even those don't work fully without a BUNCH of work, harness mods and a high price tag. Most people who have retrofitted did it purely for the screen and still don't have 100% integration yet. I would even venture to guess that even those come with Bass roll off so it would be a worthless upgrade for a "SQ/Audiophile" build.

I'll reiterate, the PAC Amp Pro or AudioControl LCi or the DSR1 (moreso lately) are reliable and proven for this specific application. I prefer PAC for the harness integration. (I'm unsure if the DSR1 has this)

To the OP: I don't think anyone here as specific experience comparing the DSR1 vs an AP4 but it appears that the DSR1 will get the job done but the AP4 provides you with the option of choosing your own DSP (if you want) and provides more flexibility for you in the long run for this specific application.
 

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You're saying replace the 8.4 Uconnect, problem is these Uconnects are integrated into the BCM's and control just about every setting for the vehicle- chimes, warnings, lights, HVAC and a bunch of other vehicle settings that cannot be controlled anywhere else. He would then have to get an Alpha OBD with a laptop sitting on the passenger seat or other aftermarket controllers/harnesses to try and get any of those controls back. Which none of them are permanent solutions, only OBD controllers that you would disconnect once done editing settings. This is completely impractical for almost all newer FCA (2013+ Fiat, Chrysler, Dodge, Ram, Jeep) owners.

Musically the best option is getting rid of the 8.4 and getting something aftermarket. Due to all of the reasons stated above for its impracticality in a newer FCA vehicle what would you recommend as a "second best" option?
read the comment before the lc7i comment.
 
hopefully you get the maestro connection working flawlessly. The DSR1 is extremely buggy with unstable bluetooth connection.

So that's your 2nd best recommendation? Even though you just **** all over it? or are you referencing:

yeah but only 50hz same issue the op of that thread has. nothing lower than that strong as it should. why? because stock head units have built in high pass filters that makes your signal completely cut off in the lower frequencies. All the op of the other thread did was swap the head unit and finally got a full range signal and he got everything he wanted and then more. Signal is more important than anything and stock head unit signal is pretty much the worst garbage signal out there and garbage in, garbage out, doesnt matter how good your gear is, on a stock head unit with no processing just an LOC, you cannot expect anything worth while. The head unit signal IS THAT important.

No one is arguing an aftermarket HU wouldn't be better. It will and I'm saying you're right! I'm also telling you as an owner, what is practical and usable for other 2013+ FCA owners. You may consider it "****" and for someone with your experience and your sig build, I can see why you'd think that. What I'm saying is there are thousands if not 10's of thousands of FCA owners running AP4's, LCi's or DSR's and are quite happy with them. From shitbox 20k Renegades to 100k SRT Hellcats.
 
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