two dd 9500 15's or one dd redline 800 18"?

[shredder2]

this is the design I paid for.....fuccking huge waste of 10 days and $40.
expensive....and pointless in my opinion.
expensive lol....pointless, anyways....and as for the aeros, I tried flaring some 8" pvc I got for free and I was unsuccessful lmao....and ive seen those big ass ports that are adjustable.

Thats to much for ports lol as far as money goes.

I didnt even waste my time on building that one,

I'm so fuccking pissed off,

You might want to build that design... a designer might have insight into your vehicle loading/cabin gain etc... and thru modeling he will see how it reacts under different conditions. Meh... you shittin' all over Ez DB's without actually trying the design imo... cheaping out as usual.
Really?

 

[ferguson621]

That thought crossed my mind after I sat and thought about it shredder.....

So my reason for not trying it was....dd "recommends" 5 cubes per sub to be optimal.....so 10 cubes, the shittty box i slapped together was 7 cubes after port and sub displacement. And it was tuned to 40hz.


The design was 7 cubes at 34hz.....so i felt that it would have been a waste of time and effort to build the same design except double baffled all the way around. So i made it a little bigger to achieve the 10 cubes after displacement.....and in doing that I dropped one of them in and the negative came unhooked on the coil and now it rattles....so i have to order a new recone tomorrow

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

That thought crossed my mind after I sat and thought about it shredder.....

So my reason for not trying it was....dd "recommends" 5 cubes per sub to be optimal.....so 10 cubes, the shittty box i slapped together was 7 cubes after port and sub displacement. And it was tuned to 40hz.


The design was 7 cubes at 34hz.....so i felt that it would have been a waste of time and effort to build the same design except double baffled all the way around. So i made it a little bigger to achieve the 10 cubes after displacement.....and in doing that I dropped one of them in and the negative came unhooked on the coil and now it rattles....so i have to order a new recone tomorrow

he probably accounted for the amount of power you will have to them... Do his design. Its usually on point dude. If you just went by the recommended airspace from manufacturers, everyone would be loud by now.

 

[ferguson621]

I'm going to

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

I didnt even waste my time on building that one, I made one that comes up 23 inches in the front and the port is facing towards the front seats.....but what I didn't realize is when i dropped them in the box the negative came unhooked from one of the coils and i played it for a couple minutes like that, so now I have to order a new recone kit for one of them. Because it rattles now when I play it.


I'm so fuccking pissed off, finally after 3 years of owning these and going through vehicles and then something so stupid happens and the coil fries....just my luck

Yo i just caught something.... You have the port firing at the front seats thats why you have zero output. Port always needs to be as close to the rear hatch as possible either up firing or to the rear. NEVER front and Yes it makes THAT BIG OF A DIFFERENCE. Front firing on a non walled and sealed off vehicle = cancellation hell. literally negative bass.

Turn the current box around if you can see if you can salvage this **** for free.

 

[ferguson621]

Yep found that out.....so i built it, Its not as loud as that single layer box I slapped together with minimal 2x4 bracing, pretty disappointed. I think I'm better off just building and testing instead of relying on a designer. And yes Jeff I was able to salvage the box. The whole things is double layered. With the 1 1/4 galvanized pipe for bracing. I've never doubled all the way around, always just the baffle, but God damnn its stout! Lol, I doubt ill have any flex from it, havent really looked at it yet though cause I've only played it for a few minutes......one of the torque converter bolts decided to come out and puncture a hole in one of the core plugs on the block, so i finally got it fixed and put back together this morning, ended up dropping and mounting the tranny 5 times in the past 2 weeks by myself in the driveway.....shiit was so much fun!

 

[shredder2]

Its not as loud as that single layer box I slapped together with minimal 2x4 bracing I think I'm better off just building and testing instead of relying on a designer.

This one?

Out of curiosity... you are hitting what #'s with that box?

 

[ferguson621]

Lol yes that one....i unfortunately don't have access to a termlab or any meter. All the car audio shops around here have closed down.....the one thats open in kansas city has never had a meter. And i doubt they ever plan on getting one cause they're lazy.

Its killing me not knowing what numbers I'm doing lol...especially with this much power now. Compared to my prior setups. I plan on buying a meter though. But I want to buy the termlab box design software before anything.

From some research I've been doing, please correct me if I'm wrong. But I think it has to do with the shape of the port. In that box its a short but wide rectangle and the designed box the port is skinny and wide. Making them sound quieter because the waves are essentially stretched when being produced by the narrow wide port and with the shorter rectangle port they're able to reach the cabin with greater force because of how much shorter it is ....make sense? Hopefully

I'm bad at trying to explain **** sometimes lmao

 

[shredder2]

Lol yes that one....i unfortunately don't have access to a termlab or any meter. All the car audio shops around here have closed down.....the one thats open in kansas city has never had a meter. And i doubt they ever plan on getting one cause they're lazy.

Its killing me not knowing what numbers I'm doing lol...especially with this much power now. Compared to my prior setups. I plan on buying a meter though. But I want to buy the termlab box design software before anything.

In my exp louder to the ear might be actually metering lower. Only you know your goals so ya... Testing along with a meter might placate you but also could drive you mad.
Good luck

 

[ferguson621]

How is that possible? Genuinely curious lol

 

[shredder2]

How is that possible? Genuinely curious lol

Every cabin has a peak where tuning for #'s makes knowing that peak critical... otherwise your just pissing in the wind Imo.
Loud and low is loud, can be windy and flex, but if you're chasing Spl... find that peak and consider it when designing a box

 

[ferguson621]

Lol makes perfect sense

 

[1aespinoza 10+ year member]

How is that possible? Genuinely curious lol

I have been working on cars with my truck's radio on low. I have noticed that about ten feet in front of my truck the bass sounds deep and punchy, when I go lower the volume (not all customers like boom), the bass is meek and modest. So if I meter it in the cabin, low number. But ten feet in front, I am Jonathan Price.

 

[ferguson621]

Ok I understand now, thank you for the example

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

Are you the same guy that tried building a wall awhile back and lost his fukking mind in the process?

Yes, I recognized the name too.

Slo ride........unfortunately......yes, that was a not so great time of my life. Things are much better now.

You say that and then proceed to "ready, fire, aim" on another attempted build.

but I've got a 250 amp ho alternator with three runs of 2/0 for power

Absolutely unnecessary since one run of 2/0 would be more than enough to carry everything that alternator can deliver but more certainly won't hurt and hopefully whenever you switch vehicles you can salvage the cable to use later. The Batcap is a solid battery, you did good there, but it seems to me you're still nowhere close to the electrical to properly support 8KW amp.

There was a member here that used cheap particle board for a wall build and resin'ed the fuckk out of it and it ended up being very successful.

You're probably thinking of me, and it was OSB that I used. One of the loudest daily drivers in the northeast uses OSB and according to a reliable source yes, even particle board + resin will = MDF + resin on the meter (all things being equal). Later someone over at SMD forum did some flex testing and found OSB to actually be the most rigid material out of several types of plywood and composite boards. I will say it is a colossal pain in the arse to build with and I used epoxy resin and not polyester (fiberglass) type. If I were to use OSB again I'd still use ply or MDF on outer layer to keep things smooth and easier to shape/round and I absolutely would not recommend it if you're not very comfortable with woodworking because I repeat, it is a huge pain in the arse to work with.


Anyway, please tell me that those are identical 95s apart from the obvious different dustcaps. And the "DD box" ratio should be used. Please, OP, for the love of God, before you pull a nutty and trash another box step back, slow down, post some pics, and get some feedback. You have done several already that were probably salvageable with some tweaks and care. Do not go throwing more money at stuff you may or may not need on a box you may or may not keep... for example blowing 50$ worth of resin on a box that doesn't work; that isn't going to fix it if it's not working out but it will improve an already good box once you have a keeper.

These guys that are posting big numbers with not a lot of gear get there from a lot of PATIENT testing and tweaking.