Thoughts on a dual sub sealed/ported hybrid box?

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I was wondering if anyone has ever built a dual sub sealed/ported hybrid box, and how it sounded. Would you get the best of both worlds... tight accurate SQ bass from the sealed, and low end loud rumble from the ported... or would the 2 interfere with one another, and sound like crap?
 
I was wondering if anyone has ever built a dual sub sealed/ported hybrid box, and how it sounded. Would you get the best of both worlds... tight accurate SQ bass from the sealed, and low end loud rumble from the ported... or would the 2 interfere with one another, and sound like crap?
4th order banpass, they are more for SPL and has limited bandwidth, sound quality is pretty **** in general but SPL can be some of the loudest enclosures out there.
 
Huh?... you mean a bandpass enclosure or are you just retarded
No... I guess I need a picture of what I'm imagining, but it's not a bandpass box... in a bandpass box both subs are in the exact same enclosure... I meant a dual sub box, each sub with it's own chamber, one ported, and the other chamber sealed. It would have a smaller footprint than a bandpass box. But if you're saying it would sound exactly like a bandpass box then okay that answers my question.
 
Basically, if you put these two boxes side by side; how would it sound? To me, a bandpass box is different.
9A92392F-5D0D-4CEA-B077-49C20FA1D8D9.jpeg
 
Basically, if you put these two boxes side by side; how would it sound? To me, a bandpass box is different.
View attachment 24094
Basically, if you put these two boxes side by side; how would it sound? To me, a bandpass box is different.
no. You get massive cancellation. Distorted waves, weird peaks or a lot of the times, negative bass. You always keep everything in the same spec'd box or else its no different than running multiple different sub brands or sub sizes in the same car... thats a recipe for disaster.

Ported boxes can be tuned to be tight and musical while sealed boxes in the wrong car acoustics can sound like absolute one note wonder garbage. Its all on how you design the enclosure and how you make it fit with the vehicle's acoustics.

PS the one enclosure that has BETTER than sealed box tightness, FLAT bandwidth response and loud throughout the whole bass spectrum and can get almost as loud or sometimes louder than a ported box is a 1/4 wave transmission line enclosure. A box for a single 10 would be as big as a box for a ported 15 so space is the compromise along with Complexity of design, you need someone who really knows what they are doing with the right tools to measure specific sub TS parameters because it wont be the same as what the factory states on their list because every woofer has minute discrepancies on their parameters.
 
no. You get massive cancellation. Distorted waves, weird peaks or a lot of the times, negative bass. You always keep everything in the same spec'd box or else its no different than running multiple different sub brands or sub sizes in the same car... thats a recipe for disaster.

Ported boxes can be tuned to be tight and musical while sealed boxes in the wrong car acoustics can sound like absolute one note wonder garbage. Its all on how you design the enclosure and how you make it fit with the vehicle's acoustics.

PS the one enclosure that has BETTER than sealed box tightness, FLAT bandwidth response and loud throughout the whole bass spectrum and can get almost as loud or sometimes louder than a ported box is a 1/4 wave transmission line enclosure. A box for a single 10 would be as big as a box for a ported 15 so space is the compromise along with Complexity of design, you need someone who really knows what they are doing with the right tools to measure specific sub TS parameters because it wont be the same as what the factory states on their list because every woofer has minute discrepancies on their parameters.
Thanks for the great explanation. That’s exactly what I was asking about.
 
no. You get massive cancellation. Distorted waves, weird peaks or a lot of the times, negative bass. You always keep everything in the same spec'd box or else its no different than running multiple different sub brands or sub sizes in the same car... thats a recipe for disaster.

Ported boxes can be tuned to be tight and musical while sealed boxes in the wrong car acoustics can sound like absolute one note wonder garbage. Its all on how you design the enclosure and how you make it fit with the vehicle's acoustics.

PS the one enclosure that has BETTER than sealed box tightness, FLAT bandwidth response and loud throughout the whole bass spectrum and can get almost as loud or sometimes louder than a ported box is a 1/4 wave transmission line enclosure. A box for a single 10 would be as big as a box for a ported 15 so space is the compromise along with Complexity of design, you need someone who really knows what they are doing with the right tools to measure specific sub TS parameters because it wont be the same as what the factory states on their list because every woofer has minute discrepancies on their parameters.

1/4 wave t-lines are easier mathematically than ported. it's super duper simple. i used to be intimidated / scared of t-lines. i did one for 8 blaupunkt 8's that was doing 145 or so
 
1/4 wave t-lines are easier mathematically than ported. it's super duper simple. i used to be intimidated / scared of t-lines. i did one for 8 blaupunkt 8's that was doing 145 or so


he was hitting something like 145 db with 8 $13 8's on like 1200 or 1500 watts.

for all around goodness, ported is usually the way to go. t-lines are power and compression/air load limited. Optimally you want a woofer that can free air, has a high xmax, high 20's to mid 30's Fs. There's several cheap subs that are designed to never bottom out, no matter what. Those are good for t-lines, that's why the blaupunkt 8's were so good there.
 
but t-lines are massive and the layout is limited by how long the port has to be. It's not like ported where the box can stay about the same size as you shrink the port. the whole port of a t-line has to be the exact length it needs to be. you can't really get around that unless you do a tapered t-line (inverse horn), but that's significantly more complicated; those are hard to model.
 
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