Taramps! Unreliable Garbage or Good Amps?

How fragile is your ego that you need to start a thread to validate your choice of amplifiers with a hugbox on this board? If you wanted an informed answer you'd be asking people with more experience such as shops who sell them, people that repair amps for a living, or electronics engineers. Yet you start a bait thread here and you've already decided that any report of one of these self destructing will just be chalked up to user error.

I don't need to validate my amp choices. I was just tired of your blanket statements about Taramps. So, yes, I started a thread to get other opinions about them. And, I see that you ran right over here to comment. I still believe that most of the problems with Taramps are due to user error and poor quality shipping causing damage. The amp reminds me of my car. If the redline on my engine is 6 grand, yet, I keep shifting at 8 grand, then, I'm going to eventually have problems. If the amp says 1 or 2 ohms, then, run it at 1 or 2 ohms. Don't run it at .5 or .66. Also, if it says keep current between 11 and 16, then, keep your voltage between 11 and 16. Eazzy Peazzy!
 
Why call out hispls for running over to criticize you but not call out popwar and others for running over to defend you? They both shared an opinion on other threads

You say you're sick of blanket statements, but you are looking for a blanket statement about taramps.

Just my opinion.

- Joe
 
I was just tired of your blanket statements about Taramps.
And what better rebuttal than to ask for fanboys to come out and wave their pom poms. Now why not ask some people who repair or design amps for a living what they think? Why not ask shops who sell a lot of amps about return rates?

You can all dislocate your arms patting yourselves on the back sharing incredibly limited anecdotal evidence but it doesn't change my opinion or the opinion of people who I would consider experts in the field.
 
Why call out hispls for running over to criticize you but not call out popwar and others for running over to defend you? They both shared an opinion on other threads

You say you're sick of blanket statements, but you are looking for a blanket statement about taramps.

Just my opinion.

- Joe

I criticized Taramps myself, did you miss that? They have the shitttiest shipping that I've ever seen. What do you want me to call out Popwar for. I've liked most of his posts about his opinions on Taramps. I made the thread to get opinions, good or bad, about Taramps. If people don't like the thread, then, they don't have to comment. Or, they can dislike all of my posts and replies, it really doesn't matter to me. I'm already -127, so, what's a few more.
 
How fragile is your ego that you need to start a thread to validate your choice of amplifiers with a hugbox on this board? If you wanted an informed answer you'd be asking people with more experience such as shops who sell them, people that repair amps for a living, or electronics engineers. Yet you start a bait thread here and you've already decided that any report of one of these self destructing will just be chalked up to user error.

Please, let me know what shops sell and install Taramps here in Vegas. I'll run right down there and ask them. I already told you that some of the issues with Taramps is there crappy shipping. Some problems are probably due to bad quality control and I'm sure a lot of the problems are user error due to people not being familiar with the brand.
 
You’ve got a good memory for being such a ****** momo

MOMO, so creative. And, that's Sir ****** Momo to you kid! I've definitely been called worse, by better. One of my old teammates, and former Cardinal, owns a sports bar in St. Louis. How's the weather these days? Probably humid AF.
 
You're making a lot of statements based on apparently, nothing. I'd like to see your evidence that they're less efficient than their korean counterparts.
Baseless claims ? TC literally replied to a dyno review of 62-65% effiency at 2ohm to 8ohm range (which is trash) by saying "uhhh user error"

Right i'm the one making baseless claims :ROFLMAO:
 
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And what better rebuttal than to ask for fanboys to come out and wave their pom poms. Now why not ask some people who repair or design amps for a living what they think? Why not ask shops who sell a lot of amps about return rates?
it's never going to happen. Reminds me of all the fanboys who bought into the PPI 1000.1/900.4 and CT sound 1400.1 fads (all they did was rant about how they're the best bang for the buck and how everybody should buy it) and then immediately got defensive later down the road when all those amps started burning out at high rates.

The smart series has very good potential but it's relatively new so we don't know if it's a good long-term choice
 
I think the dyno video speaks for itself. Just looking at the boards you can tell the build quality isn't up to par with Rockford (surface mounted and un-heatsinked regulators compared to lifted and chassis-mounted double-heatsinked regulators), but it's a 3rd to a 4th of the cost so it's obvious. They do what they do for the cheapest cost possible and don't lie to you about what they've achieved, it's far far better to trust your money with them than the best-sellers on amazon currently (minus the prime series RF) because the industry has effectively decided that it's okay to lie to people on the spec sheets. I would think by now there'd be a class-action suit against brands like PA, pyle and boss, but still here they are like always.

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I feel like it's far more appropriate to compare them with the trash brands because it's effectively the same price range. Not really fair to compare them with RF. The fact that they don't lie already puts them at the top of the pack in their niche, let alone the fact that their amps actually can dyno large numbers all day. Quality for less imo.
 
a dyno review of 62-65% effiency at 2ohm to 8ohm range
Efficiency always has high and low points and expecting the test bench numbers in real-world applications is just silly. Mostly that stuff is meaningless or at least not terribly important IMO. I mean sure, let's not go back to class A/B but anything in the class D realm is fine.... you're either running low power on stock or mostly stock electrical or you should be going for overkill. With today's alternator and battery options and how cheap power is there's absolutely no reason to plan a big build and cheap out there.
Barevids repairs amps, at first he didnt like full bridges several years back but as the new tech comes out, he likes them a lot more and believes they are the future.
Nobody ever disliked full bridge I think. Mmats has been doing it for ages and their amps don't have a reputation for high failure rate or anything else bad apart from being expensive due to being engineered and manufactured in Florida. The thing to note with many of his videos on the subject is where he will find some flaw in the design or cheap component that caused failure. Most of his "these are great amps" comments have a caveat like: provided every MOSFET is within a very precise tolerance or once some component is upgraded.
We may be seeing a point where it's going to be less costly for manufacturers to just crank them out for super cheap and eat whatever warranty return claims than it would be to make costly revisions and component upgrades. Again, I'm really interested to see how Sundown handles his Chinese built full bridge and see where Zenon and other Korean build houses do as the "brands" who buy from them start getting into their full bridge offerings.

The smart series has very good potential but it's relatively new so we don't know if it's a good long-term choice
At the price it almost doesn't even matter if it only survives a little bit longer than the warranty. They're priced to be pretty much disposable. Now that said, having to deal with warranty/return/downtime might be more trouble than the savings is worth for someone and this sort of thing should be considered when buying new.... pick a dealer who you know will take care of you or buy on eBay or Amazon with a third party warranty and don't be surprised if you get a dud and have to replace one or two before you get a winner because it's not unheard of.

Sort of reminds me of the Brazilian Taurus pistols. Some people love them, some people get bad ones but after they send it back to the company on warranty it comes back (several months later) as really nice. I tried one and it was really sketchy, would drop the magazine out sometimes when firing. I did not want to wait to send it back to the company for service (which by all accounts would have made it really nice) but instead made my dealer take it back and give me credit towards something American made that worked out of the box first try and that I wouldn't have to worry about.

I feel like it's far more appropriate to compare them with the trash brands
I don't think that's apples to apples either. Brazil has always been their own thing the good and the bad. Now that we have some full bridge options coming out of Korea and China I think that'll be a more fair comparison as we feel out how those hold up.
 
it's never going to happen. Reminds me of all the fanboys who bought into the PPI 1000.1/900.4 and CT sound 1400.1 fads (all they did was rant about how they're the best bang for the buck and how everybody should buy it) and then immediately got defensive later down the road when all those amps started burning out at high rates.

The smart series has very good potential but it's relatively new so we don't know if it's a good long-term choice

Never heard of a single PPI 900.4 or 1000.1 blow up. Literally the best selling/most popular 4 channel of all time on car audio forums.
 
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