stinger wiring kit

diminishedpower
10+ year member

I Like Chicken
the stinger 4 ga wiring kit has a 150 amp fuse in it, isn't that a little high for 4 ga wire, im going to be using it to power a jbl bp1200.1, or is this kit perfect for it? i loked at monster cables 4g ones and it used 60 amp fuses, way to small.

 
it all depends on the length of the wire. use this table for reference.

wire-gauge.jpg


since the kit came with a 150A fuse, your wire shouldn't be longer than 13ft.

 
Actually, the length of the wire has nothing to do with the size of the fuse. The inline fuse is there to prevent more current than the wire can handle safely, and the wire's current capacity isn't related to length. The reason you want larger wire for longer runs is to prevent too large of a voltage drop before the amplifier. Longer wire has more resistance.

As far as the fuse is concerned, it should be higher than the maximum current draw of the amplifier but lower than the wire's maximum safe current capacity. According to JBL your amplifier draws a maximum of 114 amps, so a 125 amp fuse would be a good choice.

As far a wire length is concerned, according to boister77's table, 4-guage wire is acceptable up to 19 feet for an amplifier drawing 114 amps. (You can probably find other tables that disagree).

 
actually its a 18ft cord with 150 amp on it, would it be a bad idea to buy the kit and then jsut put a 125a fuse in it instead of the 150
you should be fine since the max length for a 125A draw is 19ft. however, i would just put a fuse that's just a bit higher the rating of your amp. you find that out in the manual or by the fuses that's on the amp. if it has two or more fuses, add the ratings of the fuses.

 
alrighty...now im worrying about what i just bought... i got a fosgate 4ga multiple amp kit, and it's inline fuse is 60 amps. am i going to be buying fuses left and right?

The wire can handle more than 60 amps, but you don't need to change the fuse unless your amplifiers will combine to draw more than 60 amps.

You can figure out how much current your amplifiers need if you know the RMS power they'll be producing. For example: Say you have a 40x4 RMS running front and back speakers along with a bridged amp providing 200 watts to one subwoofer. 40 x 4 = 160 watts, plus 200 watts to the sub, for a total of 360 watts. Divide the total wattage by the voltage (12.6 if your battery's good) and we get a current draw of about 28.5 amps. However, most amplifiers are about 50-60% efficient, so double this number to be safe: 57 amps. A 60 amp fuse would work fine for this example.

Remember to use the actual RMS power ratings, not the marketing power rating plastered over the front of the amp.

 
that's why im worried.... in the end of installation, im gonna have:

speaker amp (85x4RMS)

sub amp(1500x1RMS)

stock battery

stock alternator (prolly need to upgrade)

did i just totally buy AND INSTALL the wrong size wiring kit???

 
**** wickedmax, all of that off of 4 gauge? I have a 0 gauge run to my trunk and I'm running approximately the same total wattage you are. I ran 4 gauge to just my JBL BP1200.1. You might be safe but I'd check a amperage chart to see how much current you will be able to get through that 4awg run.

btw what the heck is up with all the fricking **** for words that AREN'T BAD... that is REALLY annoying.

 
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diminishedpower

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