Skar going into protective mode

Ultima from o'reilly, removed the factory 150a n replace with the limo 220a. My bro in law has factory alt in a caprice which is 75-80amps? 1 battery under hood n 2 kinetic in trunk 0 gauge from hood to trunk then splits into 2 4 gauge to each jl 1000 no issues. I can go by him n try a 2nd battery in my trunk n see if it'll make a difference. The taramps went in protective mode the 1st day the skar did it the 2nd week n no issues the first week why is that? The skar with the gains set was much louder than the taramps with gain set at the same volume, Rockford fosgate site shows the p1000 draws 65a on music n the 1500 draws 100a the 2500 is 175a n suggested alternator is a 200a

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Ultima from o'reilly, removed the factory 150a n replace with the limo 220a. My bro in law has factory alt in a caprice which is 75-80amps? 1 battery under hood n 2 kinetic in trunk 0 gauge from hood to trunk then splits into 2 4 gauge to each jl 1000 no issues. I can go by him n try a 2nd battery in my trunk n see if it'll make a difference. The taramps went in protective mode the 1st day the skar did it the 2nd week n no issues the first week why is that? The skar with the gains set was much louder than the taramps with gain set at the same volume, Rockford fosgate site shows the p1000 draws 65a on music n the 1500 draws 100a the 2500 is 175a n suggested alternator is a 200a

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first off, get a multi-meter or stinger volt meter and hook it up to the amp pos and negative terminals. Play music and see whats going on first. AKA Whats your voltage drop back there. Again, Sounds like a major ground and power delivery issue. You have not done the big 3 how do expect that alternator to even function right?

Especially with your battery not near the alt in the engine bay. Seriously get voltage drop measurements at the amp not your dash. Doesnt matter if the stock ground looks beefy, There's a reason why theres at least 3 wires used in the big 3. Actually some of us do the big 4.

 
Ill throw in my 2¢. I just bought a taramps 3k and its very impressive. But it needs 0 gauge wire to run optimaly. Also with the taramps it comes with a clipping indicator. Ive noticed while tuning the gain and etc that only one or two volume knotches after clipping the protect light comes on. It doesnt take much clipping to do damage so it will protect to protect your subs. Tune to a 0db test tone at 80% of max volume with EQ at 0, not at -X. Meausre battery voltage under heavy amp draw and then you will have your answer
How did u manage to fit 0 gauge when the 4 gauge is maximum without stripping? Did u strip it to size?

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first off, get a multi-meter or stinger volt meter and hook it up to the amp pos and negative terminals. Play music and see whats going on first. AKA Whats your voltage drop back there. Again, Sounds like a major ground and power delivery issue. You have not done the big 3 how do expect that alternator to even function right?
Especially with your battery not near the alt in the engine bay. Seriously get voltage drop measurements at the amp not your dash. Doesnt matter if the stock ground looks beefy, There's a reason why theres at least 3 wires used in the big 3. Actually some of us do the big 4.
Ok I'll update u when I do

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On output ac voltage I can't go past 58.6 without clipping light on on a 40hz 0db the pic is Dc voltage when it hits 16 is when amp goes in protective mode
18282f024970eda69ee20a8b7c1a445e.jpg


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How did u manage to fit 0 gauge when the 4 gauge is maximum without stripping? Did u strip it to size?

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you can strip it or use 0 to 4 gauge reducers, they cost 10 bucks a pair

On output ac voltage I can't go past 58.6 without clipping light on on a 40hz 0db the pic is Dc voltage when it hits 16 is when amp goes in protective mode
18282f024970eda69ee20a8b7c1a445e.jpg


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is that 15.9 volts at the power and ground of the amp? thats very likely the reason why all your amps are going to protect

 
Ac output. 15.9 is high
How do I fix it n get to it's optimal voltage?

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---------- Post added at 06:42 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:41 PM ----------

 

you can strip it or use 0 to 4 gauge reducers, they cost 10 bucks a pair


is that 15.9 volts at the power and ground of the amp? thats very likely the reason why all your amps are going to protect
Yes at the power and ground

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How do I fix it n get to it's optimal voltage?

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---------- Post added at 06:42 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:41 PM ----------

 

Yes at the power and ground

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Only way to solve this is by swapping out the alt or getting a 16 volt capable amp. Both the amps you have are not 16 volt capable and are not supposed to be put in a 16 volt setup at all, its hazardous for the skar and taramp's health. you'll need a korean amp that states that it does power at 16 volts. Dang wish you'd do this test before you bought the taramps. At least the protection circuit is stout and did its job and the amp didnt fry.

That limo alt is charging ridiculously high or its meant to charge that high so thats your issue. Either you swap the alt out or the amp out.

Well good news, if you do switch out to a korean amp, you can squeeze a lot more juice out of the amps then what they are rated for at 14.4 1 ohm. Bad news is you have to go through the trouble of selling or returning amps again.

Or you can try to do a flat trade for a korean amp.

 
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