Series-parallel wiring and sub heat/smell

[Buck 5,000+ posts]

Somethings off and not making sense the way you describe that. It should have least excursion around tuning. The box is unloading at lower frequencies tho im sure.

That's what I'm saying, especially with how big that port is. That port is pretty darn big lol. I feel like there's some other factor here that maybe we don't know about.

 

[shredder2]

That's what I'm saying, especially with how big that port is. That port is pretty darn big lol. I feel like there's some other factor here that maybe we don't know about.

Yep... Then there's the other possible thing.

Description of issues is somtimes a touch off on this board.

No offense op.

The way that box sits in the cabin its going to act as advertised.

Maybe signal or idk?..

 

[Buck 5,000+ posts]

Yep... Then there's the other possible thing.

Description of issues is somtimes a touch off on this board.

No offense op.

The way that box sits in the cabin its going to act as advertised.

Maybe signal or idk?..

I thought it was maybe subsonic turned up where it was cutting out 28 hz. I have seen cases, depending on woofer Fs and Q values, where it won't move on low notes because the woofer is too stiff to properly resonate at lower frequencies, but that still doesn't seem to be the case.

Sounds is complicated and alive. It's always doing something that nobody exactly expects lol

 

[shredder2]

I thought it was maybe subsonic turned up where it was cutting out 28 hz. I have seen cases, depending on woofer Fs and Q values, where it won't move on low notes because the woofer is too stiff to properly resonate at lower frequencies, but that still doesn't seem to be the case.

Sounds is complicated and alive. It's always doing something that nobody exactly expects lol

Bottom line is the enclosure could be improved for sure. Most want big lows out of a set of 15s. Id redesign and start over myself.

 

[Buck 5,000+ posts]

Bottom line is the enclosure could be improved for sure. Most want big lows out of a set of 15s. Id redesign and start over myself.

Me too man, I totally think a new design would eliminate any potential issues from the box itself, so then he could start narrowing down or improving upon other factors. It stinks when you have issues and you're not sure where the source of the issues are from. It'll be a process of elimination. I know for a fact that port is too big for music, for how most people want their systems to sound.

 

[shredder2]

Me too man, I totally think a new design would eliminate any potential issues from the box itself, so then he could start narrowing down or improving upon other factors. It stinks when you have issues and you're not sure where the source of the issues are from. It'll be a process of elimination. I know for a fact that port is too big for music, for how most people want their systems to sound.

He could double or possibly triple the inside portwall as long as its uniform throughout lower tuning.
Hes got holy port syndrome currently, it would have to be one hell of a set of 15s on a ton of power to need over 20in2 per ft.

Id Just start over

 

[Buck 5,000+ posts]

He could double or possibly triple the inside portwall as long as its uniform throughout lower tuning.
Hes got holy port syndrome currently, it would have to be one hell of a set of 15s on a ton of power to need over 20in2 per ft.

Id Just start over

Ditto. I've done 3000w rms per woofer boxes and I don't even do the type of port area that he has. It's not his fault, though. I also think he needs more internal bracing, but like you said, I'd start clean with the box.

 

[Lowkey 10+ year member]

That doesn't make sense to me, at all. If your port tuning is in the mid 30's, then I would totally think those woofers would be flapping around at 28 hz, unless you have some sort of cab resonance that's causing a lot of loading. How loud is it at 28 hz vs 35-40 hz?

Somethings off and not making sense the way you describe that. It should have least excursion around tuning. The box is unloading at lower frequencies tho im sure.

I'll have to see if I can figure out a way to record a video of what I'm seeing.

Basically what I did was stand behind the suv with the rear hatch open and watch the cones.

I used my phone via bluetooth to go thru the freq one at a time, 25 to like 38. All at the same volume level.

I looked for the cone to be moving the least and that happened around 28-30 range. It looked almost dead in that range, vibrating basically but not moving up and down. If I went down to say 26 or up to 32 that cone would clearly starting moving again.

 

[Buck 5,000+ posts]

I'll have to see if I can figure out a way to record a video of what I'm seeing.

Basically what I did was stand behind the suv with the rear hatch open and watch the cones.

I used my phone via bluetooth to go thru the freq one at a time, 25 to like 38. All at the same volume level.

I looked for the cone to be moving the least and that happened around 28-30 range. It looked almost dead in that range, vibrating basically but not moving up and down. If I went down to say 26 or up to 32 that cone would clearly starting moving again.

I'm kind of baffled by that. That's weird to me. Have you check your voltage at your amp (power) when you're doing this?

 

[Lowkey 10+ year member]

I'm kind of baffled by that. That's weird to me. Have you check your voltage at your amp (power) when you're doing this?

Not specifically at the amp. I have a volt meter I need to wire into the amp so I can get a more accurate reading. I've got a cheap cigarette lighter volt meter and my head unit displays voltage as well but nothing directly from the amp.

 

[Buck 5,000+ posts]

Not specifically at the amp. I have a volt meter I need to wire into the amp so I can get a more accurate reading. I've got a cheap cigarette lighter volt meter and my head unit displays voltage as well but nothing directly from the amp.

I always 100% suggest to watch voltage at the sub amp for any system, no matter what else. Knowing voltage at the amp is a must, no matter what. It shows you so much about how the system is acting, for example, you can know how your woofer impedance is acting, based somewhat off how your voltage acts playing different frequencies.

 

[Lowkey 10+ year member]

I always 100% suggest to watch voltage at the sub amp for any system, no matter what else. Knowing voltage at the amp is a must, no matter what. It shows you so much about how the system is acting, for example, you can know how your woofer impedance is acting, based somewhat off how your voltage acts playing different frequencies.

Yeah I just got the volt meter in the mail a couple days ago. It doesn't have a turn on wire so I went and bought a toggle switch today. I'll get it installed asap.

 

[Lowkey 10+ year member]

I got the volt meter hooked up. I also replaced the speaker wire with some very high quality 10ga and rewired using the method in the image, making sure the wires were equal length. Then brought the box a couple inches closer to the tailgate. It occurred to me playing DJ Russticals songs may have contributed to my problem so I didn't play any of those.

Played a couple bass heavy songs at high volume with remote knob at 80% (no clip light). It sounded louder (I think?) and I didn't get any smell. Neither cone warmed up. Voltage stayed from 13.9-14.1

Not sure if the changes I made improved things or not but at least I can feel more confident that I'm not damaging anything with how it is now.

 

[Bobbytwonames 5,000+ posts]

I have one positive and one negative both from the same speaker going thru a hole in the box and into the amplifier. The amp is mono but provides 2 pos and 2 neg connections. I'm using one of each. I'll attach a "paint" picture to try and illustrate exactly how its wired. I'm using new 10 gauge knu koncepts speaker wire.

Other info: This is two 1000rms PSI subs on a 2200rms CAB-22. I watch the clip light to avoid clipping. No bass boost and bass on eq is -1. Sub level is at 0. Pioneer 80prs has been checked and should provide clean signal to vol 52 which I don't go above.

Shouldn't the bass on the EQ be at 0 and the sub level on the head unit turned all the way up? Then adjust the gain from there. Sorry if somebody already brought this up.

 

[Buck 5,000+ posts]

I got the volt meter hooked up. I also replaced the speaker wire with some very high quality 10ga and rewired using the method in the image, making sure the wires were equal length. Then brought the box a couple inches closer to the tailgate. It occurred to me playing DJ Russticals songs may have contributed to my problem so I didn't play any of those.

Played a couple bass heavy songs at high volume with remote knob at 80% (no clip light). It sounded louder (I think?) and I didn't get any smell. Neither cone warmed up. Voltage stayed from 13.9-14.1

Not sure if the changes I made improved things or not but at least I can feel more confident that I'm not damaging anything with how it is now.

I still think you’re going to do better with a box with less port area. But testing this out the way you have it now is a great chance to learn some things.