Series-parallel wiring and sub heat/smell

Both subs receive the same amount of power if wired correctly. It is possible for one sub to be driven harder if any of the voice coils' impedance is out of spec.

I wondered this by the way that read to me.


OP, have you checked the ohm load of each sub individually after they're wired in series? You may check and see that and maybe even read each voice coil independently on each sub to make sure you don't have a bad coil.


Not saying this is the issue, but it sounds similar to a different issue I had seen someone have a while back...
The ports this guy had on this box where..... unique.... but way, way wrong! I can't even explain how badly this enclosure was designed. He was having a problem with only the subs (I think he had 6 of I remember correctly) closest to the port heating up, not the others. The issue ended up being because the way these ports where set up, it was making those subs reach their mechanical limit before the other subs.
Like I said, I'm not saying this is your issue, and I wouldn't even know how to fix it if it is because I'm not a box designer by any stretch of the imagination, I just figured I'd throw an idea out there that maybe others weren't thinking of.
Is the sub that's getting hot the sub closest to the port?

This can be an issue. It usually takes a really bad design for this to happen. You could have one sub that's unloading way more than the other, or you could have a sub that's not moving properly compared to the other due to the box design.

OP, post up a pic of your box, if you want, and we can see if that could be a potential issue.


OP, do you monitor what voltage your amp is seeing when you're bumping hard? You may be getting low voltage to the amp, and that's usually the quickest way to burn a sub's voice coils up.
 
Found a guy on YouTube that did series-parrallel this way and tested a 1 ohm load with his DMM. This would seem to be a more balanced option?

That would work the same. He's just using the dual amp terminals to parallel wire the woofers, instead of combining the wiring into 1 set of wires for the amp.

Series/parallel is easy for 2 woofers: you just jump one of the + terminals on one VC to the - terminal of the oppositve VC on each woofer independently, then you combine both woofers' left over +'s together to the amp and both woofers' left over -'s to the amp.
 
Still running two 700W subs on a 2200W amp and wondering why they're getting smelly. I'm surprised nobody has said "clipping" yet.
I'm running two 1000w subs. I paid for the upgrade from PSI. I know the head unit has a clean signal to volume 52 and I don't allow the clip light to come on.
 
I wondered this by the way that read to me.


OP, have you checked the ohm load of each sub individually after they're wired in series? You may check and see that and maybe even read each voice coil independently on each sub to make sure you don't have a bad coil.




This can be an issue. It usually takes a really bad design for this to happen. You could have one sub that's unloading way more than the other, or you could have a sub that's not moving properly compared to the other due to the box design.

OP, post up a pic of your box, if you want, and we can see if that could be a potential issue.


OP, do you monitor what voltage your amp is seeing when you're bumping hard? You may be getting low voltage to the amp, and that's usually the quickest way to burn a sub's voice coils up.
I haven't checked each sub individually after wiring them, I can give that a shot. I've checked the ohm load as the amp would see it (1 ohm) and checked each coil when it wasn't hooked up(all 1 ohm exactly).

My voltage tends to stay around 14, with my current settings I don't see it drop below 13's. Hopefully I'll get my alternator and better battery installed this week.
 

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Should add I've been a bit concerned about the port being too big. I pushed the box closer to the rear and it "feels" like it does a little better. Likely not relevant but I read about finding tuning freq. with tones and did some testing and found that the cone really stops moving around 28-30hz.
 
Should add I've been a bit concerned about the port being too big. I pushed the box closer to the rear and it "feels" like it does a little better. Likely not relevant but I read about finding tuning freq. with tones and did some testing and found that the cone really stops moving around 28-30hz.

There's a certain distance away from the hatch that I call the golden zone. You'll definitely know when you're at the right distance from the hatch, because you can hear it.
 
The noticeable difference in cone temp makes me think it's a sub issue. The way they are wired petty much eliminates anything else.

@Buck would know better than me if the box could cause such a temp difference.
 
Ideally each sub in your enclosure will be equal distance from the port opening to eliminate the possibility of an uneven unloading effect.

That port looks huge visually and makes me think the enclosure is tuned quite high.
 
Dude, that does look like a big port, at least visually. Do you have the specs on the box?

The builder didn't remember but I've spent quite a bit of time trying to figure it out:

Box dimensions: External 48" Wide by 28" Deep by 17" High.

MDF is .75" and its double baffle so Internal should be 46.5 x 26.5 x 14.75.

Port Internal: 9.75" Wide x 14.75" High x 28.25" long
.

If my math is right its 10.5 cu.ft. inside the enclosure. Minus 2.35 cu.ft. of port and .28 cu. ft. for the drivers, the subs are seeing 7.87 cu.ft.

The box has 45'd corners but idk how much those are displacing, they aren't very big.
 

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Ideally each sub in your enclosure will be equal distance from the port opening to eliminate the possibility of an uneven unloading effect.

That port looks huge visually and makes me think the enclosure is tuned quite high.

Yeah I don't know if what I read about finding the tuning based on cone movement at certain freqs is accurate. If it is I'd be tuned around 28-30hz as the cone goes almost still in that range but going above or below increases cone movement.

I could see about building another box with the port in the center. The port is huge, I can stick my big head in it easily (don't ask me how I know)
 
Yeah I don't know if what I read about finding the tuning based on cone movement at certain freqs is accurate. If it is I'd be tuned around 28-30hz as the cone goes almost still in that range but going above or below increases cone movement.

I could see about building another box with the port in the center. The port is huge, I can stick my big head in it easily (don't ask me how I know)
I dont know how you did the cone movement test. It is true that cone motion is at it's least at or near tuning, but environmental factors play a role. If you tested cone motion versus tuning outside the vehicle, in a free-air environment, then I would say your estimate is accurate, but I suspect you tested it installed and affected by cabin gain, and front-loading based on how close to the car-structure the port and drivers were located. Cabin size, cabin-gain, and front loading will all affect cone motion.... not just enclosure tuning.
 
The builder didn't remember but I've spent quite a bit of time trying to figure it out:

Box dimensions: External 48" Wide by 28" Deep by 17" High.

MDF is .75" and its double baffle so Internal should be 46.5 x 26.5 x 14.75.

Port Internal: 9.75" Wide x 14.75" High x 28.25" long
.

If my math is right its 10.5 cu.ft. inside the enclosure. Minus 2.35 cu.ft. of port and .28 cu. ft. for the drivers, the subs are seeing 7.87 cu.ft.

The box has 45'd corners but idk how much those are displacing, they aren't very big.

That port is too big IMO.
 
Should add I've been a bit concerned about the port being too big. I pushed the box closer to the rear and it "feels" like it does a little better. Likely not relevant but I read about finding tuning freq. with tones and did some testing and found that the cone really stops moving around 28-30hz.

Just based off your math, you might be tuned in the mid 30’s somewhere (roughly). It seems weird to me that the cone stops moving at that low frequency. What’s your subsonic set at? Seems like the subs may unload trying to play 28 hz with where you may tuned, so idk, I would think they might be moving a good bit. Something here seems off to me.

I do know for sure your port area seems quite big for the size of the box and power, for sure.
 
I dont know how you did the cone movement test. It is true that cone motion is at it's least at or near tuning, but environmental factors play a role. If you tested cone motion versus tuning outside the vehicle, in a free-air environment, then I would say your estimate is accurate, but I suspect you tested it installed and affected by cabin gain, and front-loading based on how close to the car-structure the port and drivers were located. Cabin size, cabin-gain, and front loading will all affect cone motion.... not just enclosure tuning.
Yeah the box was in the vehicle when I tested it. I just opened the tailgate and stood there so I could see what the cones were doing.
 
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