Series-parallel wiring and sub heat/smell


Lowkey

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(2) 1 ohm dvc subs wired in series-parallel for 1 ohm final load.

Smelled voice coil again today (this seems to happen whenever i really push them) so I felt the subs. One dust cap was pretty warm in a specific spot the other was cool to the touch. The warm sub is the one connected to the amp first.

Now I'm wondering if that first sub is taking the brunt of the power since it's wired first and is basically being overpowered? And what can I do to fix it?

TIA
 

Coolhand20th

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Okay you said wired to the amp first? Do you have wires going from the box to two terminals on the amplifier? Pics please as it should be wired like this at 12 volt. I have one terminal on the box and with it wired exactly like this. Plus the gains are set correctly and using 10 gauge speaker wire inside of the box and from amplifier to terminal.

 

Lowkey

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Okay you said wired to the amp first? Do you have wires going from the box to two terminals on the amplifier? Pics please as it should be wired like this at 12 volt. I have one terminal on the box and with it wired exactly like this. Plus the gains are set correctly and using 10 gauge speaker wire inside of the box and from amplifier to terminal.

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I have one positive and one negative both from the same speaker going thru a hole in the box and into the amplifier. The amp is mono but provides 2 pos and 2 neg connections. I'm using one of each. I'll attach a "paint" picture to try and illustrate exactly how its wired. I'm using new 10 gauge knu koncepts speaker wire.

Other info: This is two 1000rms PSI subs on a 2200rms CAB-22. I watch the clip light to avoid clipping. No bass boost and bass on eq is -1. Sub level is at 0. Pioneer 80prs has been checked and should provide clean signal to vol 52 which I don't go above.
 

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Coolhand20th

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Okay as someone who has a Cab-22 the subsonic should be 2-3 hz below the box tuning. And the gain on it should be set at about 65-68 volts using a 40hz test tone, I used 0db but I know a lot of people use -3 with good results. I plan on re-doing my gains on the -3 to see what kind of difference I end up. You are wired right as well inside the box. If you are higher then that 65-68 volts then you are too high on the gain. Sundown set there's at 69-70 roughly but each amplifier will be a little different. I was able to set mine at 68 volts with no issues. Also I wired mine with the outer Positive and outer Negative vs what you did, just looked at it sitting on the shelf and yep that is how it was wired. I think you are going to high on the radio and that the gain isn't set right. I couldn't get above 25-30 depending on the song with that amp with a pair of Audio Legion 10" Armada's and it was the same with the SIA 3.5K on those. Anything higher is just too loud and could cause clipping.
 

metalheadjoe

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Both subs receive the same amount of power if wired correctly. It is possible for one sub to be driven harder if any of the voice coils' impedance is out of spec.
 
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Lowkey

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Okay as someone who has a Cab-22 the subsonic should be 2-3 hz below the box tuning. And the gain on it should be set at about 65-68 volts using a 40hz test tone, I used 0db but I know a lot of people use -3 with good results. I plan on re-doing my gains on the -3 to see what kind of difference I end up. You are wired right as well inside the box. If you are higher then that 65-68 volts then you are too high on the gain. Sundown set there's at 69-70 roughly but each amplifier will be a little different. I was able to set mine at 68 volts with no issues. Also I wired mine with the outer Positive and outer Negative vs what you did, just looked at it sitting on the shelf and yep that is how it was wired. I think you are going to high on the radio and that the gain isn't set right. I couldn't get above 25-30 depending on the song with that amp with a pair of Audio Legion 10" Armada's and it was the same with the SIA 3.5K on those. Anything higher is just too loud and could cause clipping.
I don't have a DD-1 or oscilloscope so I wasn't able to set the gains that way. The gain is a touch under 1/4. I've used the clip light as my guide. I set it so that with the remote gain knob maxed and the radio at vol 52 it wouldn't clip. Some songs can get that clip light to blink but I always turn the knob down to prevent that.

It's possible that it just cant get any louder without causing problems. Just doesn't seem right as I upgraded from 1 very old SA15 running at 2 ohm to two psi platform 1 15's running at 1 ohm. So I went from one 15 at 1500rms to two 15's at 2200 rms. It doesn't seem louder until its turned up so that the subs are actually moving and then I end up with this weird heat/smell in that left sub. (All coils test at 1ohm exactly btw)

The other part of me turning it up is the cones really aren't moving much at lower volumes.
 

Lowkey

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Both subs receive the same amount of power if wired correctly. It is possible for one sub to be driven harder if any of the voice coils' impedance is out of spec.
That's kinda what I figured. I was hoping that having all that power move thru the first sub before entering the second was causing the problem and therefore I could fix it by adjusting the wiring somehow. If that isn't whats causing that one sub to warm up first things get more complicated.
 

Coolhand20th

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You can use a DMM to set gains while playing a 40hz test tone. I don't have a DD-1 or O-Scope. Those clip lights are not exactly known for being accurate as it is. I had my volume at 75% as well with the bass knob up all the way and using the correct volts from 12 volt you can figure out exactly what they should be set at. I set mine according to what Sundown set theirs at only a couple of volts below it so I know it was okay and still couldn't get above 25-30 max depending on the song without causing issues with clipping. You need to set that gain properly that Cab-22 is rock solid. Subsonic 2-3hz below box tuning, LPF on the amp set at 80 and same with on the head unit as well.

And Joe is also right as well with his post.
 

Coolhand20th

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Okay I see two options on their site for Dual 1ohm, one says Dual 1ohm standard 0.7 vc and then Dual 1ohm +5 1ohm. So kinda curious what it is exactly for ohm readings or what it says on the receipt they sent you. Plus standard RMS on the Platform 1 is 750 unless you paid for the upgrade to 1000 watts which it sounds like you did.
 

Dafaseles

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Not saying this is the issue, but it sounds similar to a different issue I had seen someone have a while back...
The ports this guy had on this box where..... unique.... but way, way wrong! I can't even explain how badly this enclosure was designed. He was having a problem with only the subs (I think he had 6 of I remember correctly) closest to the port heating up, not the others. The issue ended up being because the way these ports where set up, it was making those subs reach their mechanical limit before the other subs.
Like I said, I'm not saying this is your issue, and I wouldn't even know how to fix it if it is because I'm not a box designer by any stretch of the imagination, I just figured I'd throw an idea out there that maybe others weren't thinking of.
Is the sub that's getting hot the sub closest to the port?
 

Lowkey

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Okay I see two options on their site for Dual 1ohm, one says Dual 1ohm standard 0.7 vc and then Dual 1ohm +5 1ohm. So kinda curious what it is exactly for ohm readings or what it says on the receipt they sent you. Plus standard RMS on the Platform 1 is 750 unless you paid for the upgrade to 1000 watts which it sounds like you did.
I paid for the 1000 watt upgrade. That +5 1 ohm means you can pay $5 to get exactly 1.0 ohm coils which I did. And all 4 coils read exactly 1.0 with my DMM.

I'll look into setting gains with my DMM.
 

Lowkey

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Not saying this is the issue, but it sounds similar to a different issue I had seen someone have a while back...
The ports this guy had on this box where..... unique.... but way, way wrong! I can't even explain how badly this enclosure was designed. He was having a problem with only the subs (I think he had 6 of I remember correctly) closest to the port heating up, not the others. The issue ended up being because the way these ports where set up, it was making those subs reach their mechanical limit before the other subs.
Like I said, I'm not saying this is your issue, and I wouldn't even know how to fix it if it is because I'm not a box designer by any stretch of the imagination, I just figured I'd throw an idea out there that maybe others weren't thinking of.
Is the sub that's getting hot the sub closest to the port?
Its actually the one farthest from the port.
 

Coolhand20th

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Yeah I know it means 5 dollars for the upgrade to 1 ohm. Was asking because of the options is all. Make sure that subsonic is 2-3hz below box tuning as well and that the LPF is 80hz on head unit and amplifier. Set the voltage to around 65-68 using a 40hz -3db test tone.
 

hispls

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Still running two 700W subs on a 2200W amp and wondering why they're getting smelly. I'm surprised nobody has said "clipping" yet.
 
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Buck

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Both subs receive the same amount of power if wired correctly. It is possible for one sub to be driven harder if any of the voice coils' impedance is out of spec.
I wondered this by the way that read to me.


OP, have you checked the ohm load of each sub individually after they're wired in series? You may check and see that and maybe even read each voice coil independently on each sub to make sure you don't have a bad coil.


Not saying this is the issue, but it sounds similar to a different issue I had seen someone have a while back...
The ports this guy had on this box where..... unique.... but way, way wrong! I can't even explain how badly this enclosure was designed. He was having a problem with only the subs (I think he had 6 of I remember correctly) closest to the port heating up, not the others. The issue ended up being because the way these ports where set up, it was making those subs reach their mechanical limit before the other subs.
Like I said, I'm not saying this is your issue, and I wouldn't even know how to fix it if it is because I'm not a box designer by any stretch of the imagination, I just figured I'd throw an idea out there that maybe others weren't thinking of.
Is the sub that's getting hot the sub closest to the port?
This can be an issue. It usually takes a really bad design for this to happen. You could have one sub that's unloading way more than the other, or you could have a sub that's not moving properly compared to the other due to the box design.

OP, post up a pic of your box, if you want, and we can see if that could be a potential issue.


OP, do you monitor what voltage your amp is seeing when you're bumping hard? You may be getting low voltage to the amp, and that's usually the quickest way to burn a sub's voice coils up.
 
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Buck

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Found a guy on YouTube that did series-parrallel this way and tested a 1 ohm load with his DMM. This would seem to be a more balanced option?
That would work the same. He's just using the dual amp terminals to parallel wire the woofers, instead of combining the wiring into 1 set of wires for the amp.

Series/parallel is easy for 2 woofers: you just jump one of the + terminals on one VC to the - terminal of the oppositve VC on each woofer independently, then you combine both woofers' left over +'s together to the amp and both woofers' left over -'s to the amp.
 
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Lowkey

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Still running two 700W subs on a 2200W amp and wondering why they're getting smelly. I'm surprised nobody has said "clipping" yet.
I'm running two 1000w subs. I paid for the upgrade from PSI. I know the head unit has a clean signal to volume 52 and I don't allow the clip light to come on.
 

Lowkey

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I wondered this by the way that read to me.


OP, have you checked the ohm load of each sub individually after they're wired in series? You may check and see that and maybe even read each voice coil independently on each sub to make sure you don't have a bad coil.




This can be an issue. It usually takes a really bad design for this to happen. You could have one sub that's unloading way more than the other, or you could have a sub that's not moving properly compared to the other due to the box design.

OP, post up a pic of your box, if you want, and we can see if that could be a potential issue.


OP, do you monitor what voltage your amp is seeing when you're bumping hard? You may be getting low voltage to the amp, and that's usually the quickest way to burn a sub's voice coils up.
I haven't checked each sub individually after wiring them, I can give that a shot. I've checked the ohm load as the amp would see it (1 ohm) and checked each coil when it wasn't hooked up(all 1 ohm exactly).

My voltage tends to stay around 14, with my current settings I don't see it drop below 13's. Hopefully I'll get my alternator and better battery installed this week.
 

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Lowkey

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Should add I've been a bit concerned about the port being too big. I pushed the box closer to the rear and it "feels" like it does a little better. Likely not relevant but I read about finding tuning freq. with tones and did some testing and found that the cone really stops moving around 28-30hz.
 

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