Rockford fosgate p3 12s box

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sharkman

poor bass head
Ok thanks to you guys i found out that my rf p3 12s were well broken in. I decided to run one of the subs and pick another brand new. The subs weren't the same impedance so one will be put in my truck.

The car is a 73 nova. I have a rf p1000-1bd and p400-2 that will use for my doors.
I do have a prefab box that fits perfectly but i wanted something that will tuned for my preference.

The box i have now is 34x16x13. This a dual chamber box. I need something to allow these subs to go a low as possible without sounding like trash. Maybe 34-38. Thanks
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Forgot to add. Im open to sealed box as well. But im still limited on space as im trying to fill the box under my rear deck. So 34x16x13 is what im working with now
 
I'd find some height or depth somewhere or design something that uses the space closer to the wheelwells myself if keeping it under the rear deck is wanted. Those dimensions are awfully small man.
Thats just the size of the prefab box that fits great. Ive tried another prefab box i had laying around and it was too big. I can go with different shape if needed. What size should i be aiming for? I have a height restriction thats killing me. The rear deck will be vented with no speakers. Ill just use 6x9 grill for the look. I was told if i had the subs firing up at the deck i would get tons of rattles. So im not sure what to do
 
Ok so did some measuring and i have a lil play room. The height staying the same i believe i can add to the depth and width.
That space you gave is a little shy after displacements even Using a pair of 4" round ports, I'd suggest at Least 20" depth then maybe a single 6" Aero 14" long would get you close to where you want to be.

I'd do a real Aero too, those flares help a ton. Make the Aero about 15" long overall and it'll be somewhere around 14" effective.

Hope that helps.
 
That space you gave is a little shy after displacements even Using a pair of 4" round ports, I'd suggest at Least 20" depth then maybe a single 6" Aero 14" long would get you close to where you want to be.

I'd do a real Aero too, those flares help a ton. Make the Aero about 15" long overall and it'll be somewhere around 14" effective.

Hope that helps.
Hey. Ive been playing with the free program and this what ive came up with. Could you tell if this will work. I will also do a double front baffle which this program dont allow me to add.
Thanks for your help
Screenshot_20210421-200720_Chrome.jpg
Screenshot_20210421-200740_Chrome.jpg
 
Hey. Ive been playing with the free program and this what ive came up with. Could you tell if this will work. I will also do a double front baffle which this program dont allow me to add.
Thanks for your help

It looks basically fine but why not put the port and subs on the same face?

Personally I'd be sure to buy a real aero too. PSP makes a good one.
 
Yep. Thats the free program. I plan on putting them on the same side. This does help. Im guessing i can move the port anywhere and still be the same.

Maybe add .3ft3 or so for sub displacement and some bracing on the larger panels too?

Idk if that program allows for sub displacements or bracing.

Yep... Subbox... my fav... :rolleyes:
 
Maybe add .3ft3 or so for sub displacement and some bracing on the larger panels too?

Idk if that program allows for sub displacements or bracing.

Yep... Subbox... my fav... :rolleyes:

The program allows for displacement but i wasn't sure if it took in the account its two woofers. I will do some math and check. I will also probably do some 45s and come up with something to brace the aero port as well
 
and come up with something to brace the aero port as well
I think the PSP 6" is unavailable atm, BAP has a good one as well and the size of the flare, # of mounting screws and wall thickness makes it solid. As long as the sections are attached well I wouldn't sweat port bracing on a 1K amp. My 10" was thoroughly aluminum taped and solid on a 4K wired down.
The 45s are up to you. Some say they help others say no. Personally I feel they can help in certain locations. I think yours with a center port and subs on either side only needs doweling to stiffen the top/ bottom and baffle/rear.
To find the displacement of a dowel is easy if you want accuracy. Radius squared x 1.76 x length used / 1728 = ft3
 
I think the PSP 6" is unavailable atm, BAP has a good one as well and the size of the flare, # of mounting screws and wall thickness makes it solid. As long as the sections are attached well I wouldn't sweat port bracing on a 1K amp. My 10" was thoroughly aluminum taped and solid on a 4K wired down.
The 45s are up to you. Some say they help others say no. Personally I feel they can help in certain locations. I think yours with a center port and subs on either side only needs doweling to stiffen the top/ bottom and baffle/rear.
To find the displacement of a dowel is easy if you want accuracy. Radius squared x 1.76 x length used / 1728 = ft3
Yea im looking at bap. Couldn't find any info on the shipping. Good to know about the foil tape. As far as the 1k amp. I was considering running it at .5 but i do think its neccessary for this car. I want to focus more on my mids and highs since its an older car. I will try to order the port tomorrow and see what they say about shipping.
 
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sharkman

poor bass head
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