REEEEEE S.O.S wire / install help

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Aright my final research so i may have a 50/50 shot at just using an in-line converter connected (11$ ebay one) to the oem sub-wire according to someone who did it for a 2019 model i have 2015 but same concept. It's not gonna like blow up my sub or burn my car to the floor right? it just will sound bad when cracked high?

And if it does sound bad then ill order the lc2i and just connect it to the oem sub-wire.

here is a video of what i got my info from starts 2:59


my neighbor is a stereo head. Just installed aftermarket amps (mids/highs and subs) in his wife’s ilx. He used a full Dsp with de-equalization for all channels. You totally could but it’s $50 vs taking the car apart twice.
 
my neighbor is a stereo head. Just installed aftermarket amps (mids/highs and subs) in his wife’s ilx. He used a full Dsp with de-equalization for all channels. You totally could but it’s $50 vs taking the car apart twice.

Well i watched a youtube video and i all clicks now the cheap in line convert is good up to 100 watts and the lc2i is good for 400 watts and since my sub is powered off a amp which is more than 100 watts i need a lc2i to have clean bass? My car's sound system is 160 watt so im 60 watts over?

^^ correct me if im wrong but i think thats what everyone was trying to explain to me?^^
 
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Well i watched a youtube video and i all clicks now the cheap in line convert is good up to 100 watts and the lc2i is good for 400 watts and since my sub is powered off a amp which is more than 100 watts i need a lc2i to have clean bass?

^^ correct me if im wrong but i think thats what everyone was trying to explain to me?^^
Everything I’ve been advocating is based on a full strength and deequalized signal
1. Easiest access of Full signal comes post factory amp
2. High end loc de-equalizes the full yet equalized
signal coming off factory hu/amp
 
QUESTION!!!

So, i found my car's amp is not inside the radio and its a outside box. DO I tap before the amp ? (much harder to wire back) or can i tap into the output of the oem amp with the cl2i? or it doesn't matter?
 
yahoo
QUESTION!!!

So, i found my car's amp is not inside the radio and its a outside box. DO I tap before the amp ? (much harder to wire back) or can i tap into the output of the oem amp with the cl2i? or it doesn't matter?
In one of my responses above i stated that the amp was separate from the head unit. If you tap before the amp you will not likely have a full signal. Go into the output of the oem amp. Try it both ways if you want but don’t put your car back together after the first way of you go pre amp until you test it
 
yahoo

In one of my responses above i stated that the amp was separate from the head unit. If you tap before the amp you will not likely have a full signal. Go into the output of the oem amp. Try it both ways if you want but don’t put your car back together after the first way of you go pre amp until you test it
Alright, i found an acura member who used the same cl2i on the same car. they had audio shop install and they used the high sub output. ( idk if they were lazy but it works ) There should be no difference in sound quality right? for 70$ the cl2i better work 100% with both connections lol it's a 160watt sound system so i dont think its too "high" compared to 260 watt or 360 watt systems that the upper-level trim have
 
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I've watched alot of 5star audio on youtube and i learned about digital input to the oem amp. pretty sure mine doesn't have it picture below. I'm gonna try finding the wire to the oem sub in the back by finding the same color wire.

s-l1600.jpg
 
update: looked at my car and well.... it would take 3 hours of work to connect to the wire before the amp... i would need to remove the full center console. I've now changed my mind and ill be tapping into the rear oem sub wires. I accept my sound may be a little bad but its gonna be waaay better than oem. I went to homedepot to get some wires they aren't audio wires but solid copper wires for high ratted power that fit into my lc2i.


QUESTION!
The cl2i is basically a fancy LOC, right? i don't need to connect a LOC after my cl2i?
I ask this because my sub has a built in LOC but it also has RAW female RCA so i have both options to pick
 
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update: looked at my car and well.... it would take 3 hours of work to connect to the wire before the amp... i would need to remove the full center console. I've now changed my mind and ill be tapping into the rear oem sub wires. I accept my sound may be a little bad but its gonna be waaay better than oem. I went to homedepot to get some wires they aren't audio wires but solid copper wires for high ratted power that fit into my lc2i.


QUESTION!
The cl2i is basically a fancy LOC, right? i don't need to connect a LOC after my cl2i?
I ask this because my sub has a built in LOC but it also has RAW female RCA so i have both options to pick
I was talking about your rear oem subwoofer wire POST factory amp (not pre), post is likely the complete signal.....third time stating that. The lc2i is the loc, the accubass function will help your correct any roll off as a result of factory amp/headunit equalization.
 
I was talking about your rear oem subwoofer wire POST factory amp (not pre), post is likely the complete signal.....third time stating that. The lc2i is the loc, the accubass function will help your correct any roll off as a result of factory amp/headunit equalization.


Gotcha loud and clear! once again thanks for not smashing ur head against a wall... lol.

I'm now in the phase of the "fun part" where i get to map out where and how ill secure things up.
I'm thinking of copying another person who screwed the lc2i up on the deck.

QUESTION! in the pic below the installer jumped the input left + & - to the right input + & - with a tiny 1-inch wire(neon blue wire)(neon yellow wire). Do i need to do the same? (let me know if you don't see it ill draw a circle on the picture)


20151108_085804_bc884f403f54c5427bf4b46935d9135998374227.jpg
 
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