Questions about setup compatibility and tuning

Utmost_Ghost

CarAudio.com Newbie
Jul 5, 2022
4
0
Just a heads up, I’m still pretty new to car audio but I’m finding that I really enjoy it and it’s become somewhat of a therapeutic hobby for me, though I’m only working with entry level components right now. Please bear with me.

I put a Kenwood KAC 6202 Amp
(RMS Power Output:
60 Watts x 2 Chan. @ 4 Ohms (CEA-2006)
100 Watts x 2 Chan. @ 2 Ohms (CEA-2006)
200 Watts x 1 Chan. @ 4 Ohms (Bridged)

and a Kenwood KFC W12PS 12 inch sub
(Nominal Impedance: 4 Ω
Peak Power: 1,000 W
Rated Input Power: 250 W)

BRIDGED

in my truck, and I am a little disappointed that it doesn’t hit even 70% of my last setup. I know it’s not a very powerful system at all, but I was running a Sony Xplod 12 with only 50 more watts RMS and an amp with about the same as mine now and you could hear it from inside the house. My first question is: is my current setup compatible in a way that I shouldn’t have many complications? My second question is: how hard can I push the sub and how do I know it’s limits without blowing it out? Maybe it’s just not tuned right? There is no Gain control but there is an input sensitivity and a high/low pass filter. I have the low pass on about 75 and the sensitivity at .5. I literally have no clue how to tune it. Any tips or advice would be much appreciated.
 

ThxOne

AudioFreak
5,000+ posts
Jun 8, 2018
9,512
2,127
Let's try this by ear.

1. Set the volume of the head unit to the highest level you will listen to it at.
2. Set all EQ's to flat.
3. If you have a bass knob, turn it all the way up.
4. NO LOUDNESS OR BASS BOOST in the head unit or on the amp.
5. Set that crossover to 80hz
6. Set the amp gain all the way down.
7. Play a 40hz -10db test tone.
8. Slowly turn the gain up until the sound of the subwoofer changes, it should be obvious and back the gain back down until the sub sounds the way it did before the change.

The obvious change should be like this ooooooooooooooooOOOOOO Back it back down to just before the capitol O. Turn your volume down on the head unit. Put in some music and set your EQ's and bass stuff the way you like it.
 

ThxOne

AudioFreak
5,000+ posts
Jun 8, 2018
9,512
2,127
If this doesn't work, bite the bullet and have a shop set the gain.
 

Utmost_Ghost

CarAudio.com Newbie
Jul 5, 2022
4
0
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #4
Let's try this by ear.

1. Set the volume of the head unit to the highest level you will listen to it at.
2. Set all EQ's to flat.
3. If you have a bass knob, turn it all the way up.
4. NO LOUDNESS OR BASS BOOST in the head unit or on the amp.
5. Set that crossover to 80hz
6. Set the amp gain all the way down.
7. Play a 40hz -10db test tone.
8. Slowly turn the gain up until the sound of the subwoofer changes, it should be obvious and back the gain back down until the sub sounds the way it did before the change.

The obvious change should be like this ooooooooooooooooOOOOOO Back it back down to just before the capitol O. Turn your volume down on the head unit. Put in some music and set your EQ's and bass stuff the way you like it.
I did some research and found out my low pass was set way too high for my subs Hz. And I did the by ear gain check you recommended and it does sound a little more crisp and the cone seems to be moving in a more stable fashion. I suppose I just caught the “sub bug” and now I have an insatiable hunger for an unnecessarily loud system. Would it be a good move to upgrade my amp to something that runs a full 250 watts per channel, and buy another identical 12”? I only ask because I already have another 12” enclosure, so I’m trying to make an economical conscious upgrade.
 

ThxOne

AudioFreak
5,000+ posts
Jun 8, 2018
9,512
2,127
I did some research and found out my low pass was set way too high for my subs Hz. And I did the by ear gain check you recommended and it does sound a little more crisp and the cone seems to be moving in a more stable fashion. I suppose I just caught the “sub bug” and now I have an insatiable hunger for an unnecessarily loud system. Would it be a good move to upgrade my amp to something that runs a full 250 watts per channel, and buy another identical 12”? I only ask because I already have another 12” enclosure, so I’m trying to make an economical conscious upgrade.
2 - 12's can shake rattle and roll... Do it, get the second sub and enjoy the bass.
 

some dude

CarAudio.com Regular
Sep 7, 2020
189
102
What kind of box is your subwoofer in?
Is it the same box you had in your previous setup?
Where is the box located in the cab and how is it oriented? I.E. Sub forward, up, rearward? Port forward, up, rearward?
 

Utmost_Ghost

CarAudio.com Newbie
Jul 5, 2022
4
0
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #7
What kind of box is your subwoofer in?
Is it the same box you had in your previous setup?
Where is the box located in the cab and how is it oriented? I.E. Sub forward, up, rearward? Port forward, up, rearward?
5989B212-C112-4208-9FB6-21D5A39A2647.jpeg
Ive ran it in both boxes. The box on the left just sounded really sloppy and like it was flexing the sub a little too hard. I have it in my rear bed space pointed towards the hatch. What’s really strange is I checked my old amp (Sony XM4060GTX 600Watt) to find it was only running 150 Watts RMS Bridged to my Sony Xplod XS-L120P5W (350 Watts RMS) and was at least 30-40% louder than my current setup. I’m just a little confused as to why my current Kenwood setup isn’t nearly as loud as the old poorly matched Sony setup I had previously.
 

Utmost_Ghost

CarAudio.com Newbie
Jul 5, 2022
4
0
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #8
View attachment 39957
Ive ran it in both boxes. The box on the left just sounded really sloppy and like it was flexing the sub a little too hard. I have it in my rear bed space pointed towards the hatch. What’s really strange is I checked my old amp (Sony XM4060GTX 600Watt) to find it was only running 150 Watts RMS Bridged to my Sony Xplod XS-L120P5W (350 Watts RMS) and was at least 30-40% louder than my current setup. I’m just a little confused as to why my current Kenwood setup isn’t nearly as loud as the old poorly matched Sony setup I had previously.
Just to be clear, the Sony subwoofer is blown leaving me with both boxes, my Kenwood sub and amp. Probably due to running it pretty hard off of an amp that was only 150 Watts RMS when the sub is rated at 350 Watts RMS.
 

some dude

CarAudio.com Regular
Sep 7, 2020
189
102
Subwoofers have a certain range in box size they want to be in. Measured in cubic feet (usually). Look up the specs on your Kenwood sub and see what size box it needs. Ported box specs and sealed box specs.

In the pic you posted above; 1 box has a port and the other one doesn't. Is that correct?

Make sure the box is right first.

Sending it clean power (gain setting, power wire and ground location) is second.

crossover settings (low pass, high pass) third


That's how I would generally approach this if it were me.
 

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