questions about making your own box...

[ßûmþ_§üm±hîñ 10+ year member]

Hey guys, I have a few questions about self-made boxes. Well first ill just say that my dad is a shop teacher for my high shcool and he said he could make me a box for free. Is there any certain type of wood that would be best...it seems like the heavier the wood the better box it would make. And i noticed on my home system that there is openings where the air can come in and out of the box, do you do this for car audio too? If so how big should i make the hole? Do you have to have any special place to run your wires in, like to connect your amp to your sub? And the last question i have is that i also noticed on my home system that they stuffed it w/ some kind of "cottonie" material...what is that for and do you do this to car audio boxes too? If so what should i use? thanks alot, later, Nick

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[SKMexiFry 10+ year member]

Well, first off, a good wood is MDF (medium density fiberboard). I think you're dad would know what it is. Try to get between 1/2" and 3/4" thickness. As for your home system, the holes are called PORTS. The reason they are there is because the company tuned the box and found the optimum size and frequency for the subs in there. You can try to port your box, but personally I wouldn't recommend it, because if the port is off, it's going to sound like crap. Most subs come with a spec sheet for the optimum box size, but remember that the final internal volume includes the sub already in it. When your dad has built the box, buy a terminal cup (the thing you connect the wires to). The cup cives you a cutout size. Cut that hole wherever convenient for wiring in your car. Cutout the correct size hole for your sub. When you wire the sub, never soulder, because the heat will affect the voice coil. However you wire the inside of the box is personal preference. Don't drill holes for the screws, just screw them in with a power drill/screwdriver where desired. The "cottonie" stuff is called poly fiberfill. As zane has told me before, it doesn't really make any difference, so I wouldn't put it in. When your sub is connected and put in, a nice grill would look nice and also save it from any stray objects near it. I have included links for the things to build the box. Hope I could help, and if you have anymore questions, go to my profile and email me, and maybe I could help some more! //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

Terminal cups: http://www.crutchfield.com/cgi-bin/S-Z8qGRaBxU8g/ProdGroup.asp?c=11&s=0&g=744

Fiberfill: http://www.crutchfield.com/cgi-bin/S-Z8qGRaBxU8g/ProdView.asp?s=0&c=11&g=741&I=027808&o=p&a=0

Grills: http://www.crutchfield.com/cgi-bin/S-Z8qGRaBxU8g/ProdGroup.asp?c=11&s=0&g=742

Ports: http://www.crutchfield.com/cgi-bin/S-Z8qGRaBxU8g/ProdGroup.asp?c=11&s=0&g=745

Carpet: http://www.crutchfield.com/cgi-bin/S-Z8qGRaBxU8g/ProdGroup.asp?c=11&s=0&g=746

Other: http://www.crutchfield.com/cgi-bin/S-Z8qGRaBxU8g/ProdGroup.asp?c=11&s=0&g=743

 

[imral3 10+ year member]

most of the above info is ok... but you MUST get at least 3/4" MDF. anything thinner, as suggested, may be too weak. make sure you build the box to the sub manufacturer's specs for interior enclosure volume(cubic feet) for each sub involved, including the space taken up by the sub itself. you would only use "polyfill" if the box was a little smaller than spec. make sure you glue, screw, and caulk all joints in order to create an air tight box. very important!