Ported box recommendation for 15" hdc3

The only reason I'm not recommending the AQ 3500 is that it will need several electrical upgrades like a high output alternator, bigger wire, fuses and more batteries. It can get very expensive. It is your decision though you could always wire it to 4ohms until you get more subs and batteries

 
Yeah that makes sense. I'm sure I will upgrade all of that eventually anyways. Could that sub really handle the 3500w? It looks to be very durable and well built. And thanks so much for all of your help so far I really appreciate it!

 
Well if you wire your sub at 4ohms that amp would only produce around 1500 watts RMS. It would be around 4,000 watts at 1 ohm though. And no problem you are lucky to have an SUV I say go big if you can afford it or just save up little by little if you enjoy this hobby. Gotta go for tonight take care and good luck on your setup

 
What style of ported box would you recommend for 4 12"s in an suv? Meaning, where would you place ports and subs? I have 2 only I might get rid of, but then I might just add 2 more

Well if you wire your sub at 4ohms that amp would only produce around 1500 watts RMS. It would be around 4,000 watts at 1 ohm though. And no problem you are lucky to have an SUV I say go big if you can afford it or just save up little by little if you enjoy this hobby. Gotta go for tonight take care and good luck on your setup
 
Be sure to tell any "builder" how much port area you want. While this may not apply to some, it will apply to many local "builders" out there as they may have decent carpenter skills but lack in the design area. So going in with all the info you need upfront is always a good thing.

 
When I had 4 12's in my car it was a sealed box and it worked well. I just talked to the guy who I bought the hdc3 from and he told me to look into the Atrend 15Lsv box. It's 4.25cu ft tuned at 37. It's definitely cheaper than the quote I received from the guy to make one for me, has anyone ever had a Atrend box?

 
Atrend's are ok. They are probably the best pre fab I have ever had. The wood is thin and the box is light but as far as a pre fab goes they're ok. A little extra bracing and cover the outside walls with extra wood and you could have an excellent box.

 
It's made of 3/4" mdf and the front is 1" thick. I found the Atrend 15lsv online shipped for 80. Ill probably just have one made but I thought I would ask since it's relatively cheap and it was recommended to me.

 
What style of ported box would you recommend for 4 12"s in an suv? Meaning, where would you place ports and subs? I have 2 only I might get rid of, but then I might just add 2 more
Subs firing up and slot port firing to the rear (horizontal near bottom). Or you could even do an octoport firing to the rear in the middle of the box with subs firing up also

 
Ok, so when you say rear, you mean pointing at the trunk? I have seen alot of people with their subs facing up.
Yea subs up and port firing toward the trunk latch (not sure which SUV you have). But when you open the trunk you will see the port in clear view

 
OP you really need to figure out how much power you plan to run. Off a 1200watt amp I'd go 4.5cubes net and wouldn't tune lower then 35Hz. Off a 2kw amp I'd do 4.25 net with the same tuning. 16^2 port per cube.

I've built a ton of daily boxes like that for AQ's and they work out very well.

 
I still haven't gotten around to actually making the box yet, but I have been looking into using an aero port for it. From what I have read it's easier to make and I like the fact that I can change the tuning of the box easier. I'm definitely going to be using a 2000w amp with it. Does anybody know if the hdc3 would work well with aeroport(s)?

 
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