please help with wiring...i think i made a mistake

trungthiendo
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ok, i have 2 4 guage wire running off battery pos terminal and both are fused with 80 amp fuses...which are 120 amps combined

then the 2 power wire a ran back to the trunk of the car to a distrobution block, where it goes to 1 power wire with 30 amp fuse to it, and 1 80 amp to it

the 30 amp fused wire will go to the 4 channel amp, which is a tsunami db4440. Only 2 channel on this will be used so 30 amps is fine, the amp itself has a pair of 30 amp fuses. My guess is 30 amp for front and 30 for rears.

then on the distro block, a power comes off it and fused with 1 80 amp fuse, that which goes to the hifonics amp...if i only have this 80 amp fuse, technically i won't be seeing 1500 watts right???...i am going to be powering a dd 9512 with the hifonics.

any feed back on this wiring schema...? i really want to be able to give the dd 9512 full 1500 watts to have it do its thing...

did i screw myself up an dhave to go get a bigger fuse now???

 
Try it and see.

A fuse doesn't have any effect on the current until it blows. Don't worry that your fuse is somehow preventing the amp from reaching maximum power; as long as it isn't blown, it doesn't limit the current reaching the amp. If it blows, then consider replacing it with something bigger.

You'll probably be okay. The Hifonics is a Class D amp, so it's more efficient than an AB type; that means you don't need as large a fuse for a given power output. Also, any inline fuse will tolerate a current higher than its rating for a short time. Since the nature of a subwoofer amp is to draw high currents in short bursts, there's a very good chance your fuse will hold up fine.

 
rms ac ???i thought it was all dc
bare with me, what is a DMM...

An audio signal is AC. The alternating current is what makes the speakers move back and forth. So if you're ever measuring the audio signal itself (speaker outputs, preamp outputs) you're measuring AC.

A DMM is a digital multimeter.

 
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