Please critique my planned setup, advise on amp?

I don't think it does from the pics I've seen.
Years ago a friend had a civic hatchback that he had fiberglass "pods" made for the area where the armrest is in the back seats.
He put RF 8" on each side and ran them off of a punch 100 and it sounded really good.
I see the armrest area in the 91 325 vert already holds the rear speakers so it might be possible but the cost might be a little high and it would defiantly need some modification to that whole area.

In my 2001 BMW convertible we just folded down the center arm rest and cut the hole out with a sawzall. I ran a single XFL12 in the trunk in a pre-fab box for a Kicker L7 12" (new baffle piece). We aimed the sub right at the hole in the armrest. It got down pretty good. I only had an 1,100 watt lightning audio amp on the sub. If the OP wants any kind of "legitimate" bass, then, he will have to use the trunk.
 
Looks like I barely have enough volume, 0.2 with sub displacement, to fit the 8in versions of either of those first two kickers I posted about. Probably better than the powered 10in subs?
I'd just get the powered 10s then. Running 8s in .2 sealed is likely going to hit a relatively high FC. Of the powered subs the kickers honestly are one of the better ones, but don't expect to shake your windows with them.
 
I prefer to put the sub in the cabin rather than the trunk
Nearly always a recipe for disappointment. Subwoofers never do well in the center of a room (vehicle) and almost always to best loaded into a corner. You're fighting an uphill battle already if you're trying to pressurize a convertible or soft top or similar.

Honestly the best thing to do if you want to feel some bass in an open top vehicle is implement the Aura Bass Shaker or similar tactile transducers in your seats. Those plus pretty much any small subwoofer will give the impact of good bass for passengers in that type of vehicle. I've seen this done ages ago when I worked at a big shop and it was really impressive.

Also, Dayton products are solid. They will perform as advertised, are reasonable quality for the price point, and you can see lots of reviews for each specific product over at Parsexpress. I've always had good luck with kicker either, they should also do what they claim and if you're buying local you'd at least get support from the B&M shop assuming they're reputable.
 
I'd just get the powered 10s then. Running 8s in .2 sealed is likely going to hit a relatively high FC. Of the powered subs the kickers honestly are one of the better ones, but don't expect to shake your windows with them.

Ahh, so even though those 8's say they can operate at 0.2 ya still think the powered 10's would be better? And for powered, also considering the Cerwin Vega VPAS10, looks pretty similar to the Kicker Hideaway HS10... Any thoughts there?
 
I mean I agree with the kicker hideaways except for you specifically mentioned to keep road noise in mind and that you want the sub in the cabin, thats the kicker (pun intended).
honestly if you want something that will sound loud in the cabin in that kind of car with road noise with that little cone area and space you will need to up your price point considerably.

this is your build and im sure you have reasons, so I wont discount that.
you have three options in my opinion.
1. temper your expectations, when sub gives a recommended volume it only means that is a decent middleground for the sub to perform in a general variety of applications. it dsoesnt mean it will perform just as well as another same power sub that recommends a larger box. typically space makes bass.
2. up your price point and power considerably. you can outweigh the space debuff by throwing more power and money at it.
3. break down and put something more efficeint in the trunk and cut a hole in the wall between seat and cabin as bobby mentioned.
 
Problem solved. A 4th order in the trunk just like this guy. 🤣

Screenshot_20210222-230304_Chrome.jpg
 
I mean I agree with the kicker hideaways except for you specifically mentioned to keep road noise in mind and that you want the sub in the cabin, thats the kicker (pun intended).
honestly if you want something that will sound loud in the cabin in that kind of car with road noise with that little cone area and space you will need to up your price point considerably.

this is your build and im sure you have reasons, so I wont discount that.
you have three options in my opinion.
1. temper your expectations, when sub gives a recommended volume it only means that is a decent middleground for the sub to perform in a general variety of applications. it dsoesnt mean it will perform just as well as another same power sub that recommends a larger box. typically space makes bass.
2. up your price point and power considerably. you can outweigh the space debuff by throwing more power and money at it.
3. break down and put something more efficeint in the trunk and cut a hole in the wall between seat and cabin as bobby mentioned.

I agree that the hideaways are not an ideal solution, and I included that with my rec. Sometimes money will get you more bass in a smaller space, however likely not in .2 cubes. That's more of a 6.5 comp mid box than a sub box. .4 -.6 net all day you can get some good lows. The 10tw5 from what I've heard with its 400 rms rating, 15mm xmax and 32 fs hits incredibly well in a very small space. However, I did the math and in .5 sealed you are hitting 52 fc. At .2 cubes you basically have a choked out midbass.
 
I agree that the hideaways are not an ideal solution, and I included that with my rec. Sometimes money will get you more bass in a smaller space, however likely not in .2 cubes. That's more of a 6.5 comp mid box than a sub box. .4 -.6 net all day you can get some good lows. The 10tw5 from what I've heard with its 400 rms rating, 15mm xmax and 32 fs hits incredibly well in a very small space. However, I did the math and in .5 sealed you are hitting 52 fc. At .2 cubes you basically have a choked out midbass.

What FC do you think I would hit at 0.2 with the 8" LT7? https://www.kicker.com/8-inch-l7t-2-ohm-subwoofer

Maybe I should just do some serious sound deadening in the kick panels and go with some Morel Maximo Ultra 602s or some of the Morel Ultra 603A's designed for active 3-way (or some other 6.5's with good power in the lower frequency range?? The Morels say they 'only' go down to 50 hz where others go down to 35, but I am not sure how useful anything below 50hz would be from a 6.5...) Then I would only need a 2-channel amp and could always add a Hideaway later if I want?
 
What FC do you think I would hit at 0.2 with the 8" LT7? https://www.kicker.com/8-inch-l7t-2-ohm-subwoofer

Maybe I should just do some serious sound deadening in the kick panels and go with some Morel Maximo Ultra 602s or some of the Morel Ultra 603A's designed for active 3-way (or some other 6.5's with good power in the lower frequency range?? The Morels say they 'only' go down to 50 hz where others go down to 35, but I am not sure how useful anything below 50hz would be from a 6.5...) Then I would only need a 2-channel amp and could always add a Hideaway later if I want?
I am running the Morel maximo ultra 3 way active in my setup. The 6.5s have good midbass, I cross them at 50 and 500. They are excellent, clear speakers. I do not know how they sound passive though.
 
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