One speaker working at at a time with new amp. Please help!

  • 2
    Participant count
  • Participant list

BryceCC

CarAudio.com Newbie
Hello, I am relatively new to car audio and decided to install an aftermarket amp, front door speakers, and subwoofer into my car. I was on a budget and decided to get a 4-channel amplifier and bridge the rear channels to the subwoofer and front channels to the front door speakers. I have a 2010 Hyundai Tucson GLS with a premium factory audio system that has a stock amplifier and stock subwoofer. The subwoofer unfortunately has never worked and I still don't know why. I didn't want to change the stereo because there is nothing wrong with mine and it has Bluetooth and a touch screen which is all I need. So I decided to buy a LOC to tap into the front speaker outputs on my stock amplifier to get the RCA's going into the new amp. After wiring everything I got the subwoofer working but when I would connect my front door speakers to the amp only one of them would work. I tried switching the RCAs and even adding another LOC that taps into the rear speaker outputs on the amp so I could eliminate the Y splitter at the amp. None of this has worked and I am genuinely stuck on what I should be doing. At this point, all I could think of is it was the amp not working or the LOC. I could just be doing something wrong but I'm not sure so that's why I'm here. If I have to get a new amp would it be better to get a different 4-channel amp or get both a 2-channel amp and mono amp for the sub, not sure? Any help would be much appreciated. Also, I know people hate Blaupunkt but I thought 70 RMS per channel would pretty good for $70 and what parts I have. Thanks! Parts and pictures are below.


Blaupunkt 1500W 4-Channel, Full-Range Amplifier
Skar Audio IX-12 D4 12" 500 Watt Max Power Dual 4 Ohm Car Subwoofer
Kicker KISLOC 2-Channel K-Series Speaker Cable to RCA Adapter with Line Out Converter
Kicker 47KSC6704
 

Attachments

  • IMG_1238.jpg
    IMG_1238.jpg
    794.9 KB · Views: 28
  • IMG_1239.jpg
    IMG_1239.jpg
    454.7 KB · Views: 30
  • IMG_1234.jpg
    IMG_1234.jpg
    569.9 KB · Views: 27
  • IMG_1236.jpg
    IMG_1236.jpg
    717.2 KB · Views: 28
  • IMG_1237.jpg
    IMG_1237.jpg
    679.6 KB · Views: 30
  • IMG_1148.jpg
    IMG_1148.jpg
    683.1 KB · Views: 27
Last edited:
I’d suggest taking a methodical approach. Start with things you know work. Then add one thing at a time. Test the addition with a scope. Keep adding until it doesn’t work. Then you have the problem.
Say start with rear speakers. They work then add in the splice. Test it with a scope. That works? Add loc and test that. If that doesn’t work. Then replace the loc. preferably with an active loc. it’s a little more wiring but worth it.
 
Activity
No one is currently typing a reply...

Similar threads

Its lasted 19 years thus far. Could be something as simple as a wiring connection as stated. Nothing in electronics last forever. Its had a great...
8
1K
True but at those prices, nickel plated copper or brass would be a much better option for speakers, no point in using stainless steel at all...
24
300
dragon.breath, Many thanks for taking the time to help me out. It is very much appreciated and my small brain can understand it now. I have...
6
223
Drill a hole and use the proper protective split loom and hole grommets to keep the outer speaker jacket from knicks and cuts, give just enough...
8
757

About this thread

BryceCC

CarAudio.com Newbie
Thread starter
BryceCC
Joined
Location
United States
Start date
Participants
Who Replied
Replies
1
Views
1,684
Last reply date
Last reply from
Glen Livet
IMG_7545.png

Chris Gerrish

    Apr 25, 2024
  • 0
  • 0
IMG_7544.png

Chris Gerrish

    Apr 25, 2024
  • 0
  • 0

Latest topics

Top