Noob Needs help ^^

[Langor]

Hi!

I just ran into a car audio place that was closing out and I baught two amplifiers. They are 1600watt Kenwood amps. I got both of them for $400.00. I used to own a 1200watt kenwood amp, so I decided to get these since I don't have a system anymore. Back in the day, 1200watts was alot of power. Im not sure if it is today. But anyways. What subs should I get? I don't know what is good, or what size, how many I should get. If any of you could find a good setup for the amps that would be great! I have a sedan, so room is not a big deal. Im looking for subs that won't distort at high volume, and have deep base. I don't care if people can hear it far away. I want quality ^^. And my other question is what gauge of amp kit should I get? And do I need capacitors? And how do I get my amp to run at 14.4v?

Here is the amp link, I have two of them.

Kenwood KAC-810D 800RMS/1600Peak

Thanks ahead of time, sorry for not really knowing much =/

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[Langor]

1) 4 gauge for each.

So I run two kits? How would that hook up to the battery? I thought I was suppost to run something like 2gauge and split it?

2) Peak power is a useless figure. RMS is a lot more realistic.

Ive owned a Rockford 500 older model, and it was 500rms/750peak. And I swear it only sounded like a 500peak amp. (was running a 500/1000 RF sub). But Before my Kenwood 600/1200 got stolen a while ago, I was setting car alarms off with it. I think Kenwood makes really decent amps, and cd players. I think they hit the max quite often. But then again, I don't really know a lot about stereos ^^.

3) You don't need capacitors.

Well whatever im doing, im getting a custom box built into the trunk. So could I use two, one for each amp as a voltage monitor? Or would that hurt the sytem?

4) When your engine is turned on, the alternator increases the voltage (to charge the battery) to between 13.5-14.5 volts. So, when your car is off, you get about 12-13 volts, and when you turn it on, the voltage is increased to 13.5-14.5 volts.

Im gonna need a new alternator, what amp rating should I be looking for?

5) Each amplifier is capable of producing 1000 RMS @ 1 ohm

If I ran at 1000rms@ 1 ohm would my peak/max still be 1600? Or would it now lower to 1000 flat?

(perhaps give me the other one and somehow make it a tax write-off ?)

I actually got the amps with my tax returns lol. =/

Ok so I like bass that can make my head vibrate so it looks like a blurr when im driving down the road. But I want a clean sound (doesn't have to be for pro rating, im just your average joe) I have always loved RF subs, but the only promblem is I never had any that sounded clean to me. (I have had 2 models of them) I am looking to stay under the $800 range for subs. I want to run both amps. So I should run at 1ohm since I get more rms out of it? I was thinking about the Kicker L7 15's. But I heard they sound worse the the RF's. But whatever I choose they need a decent look at the cone ^^. Any ideas on what subs?

Thanks again

 

[Langor]

Ok thanks for all the info ^^

I am looking at subs now and have a couple more questions if you could answer!

1. Frequency Response - Thats how high and how low of notes the sub can play right? So I would want 20hz becuase thats the lowest base sound a human can hear correct?

2. Sensitivety - The higher the db SPL the louder it can play with out distorting? If so why are all the big name brands around 89db and most of the stuff like sony or audiobahn at 94db? How big of a difference is 89-94db spl?

3. Box Size - Since I am paying out my ass to get a custom box made, would I contact the subwoofer company to get the extact size of box I should use for thw wattage I am giving the sub. And would a perfect cube box be best for a sub? If not how can I tell what shape it should be, and how does it change the sound?

If some of the questions are complicated just skip over them. But I don't want to waste alot of money and end up with a very low quality system. Im not buliding it to compete, but I might take it to some of the street comps just to see how I do ^^.

 

[WarDrumz 10+ year member]

Ok thanks for all the info ^^
I am looking at subs now and have a couple more questions if you could answer!

1. Frequency Response - Thats how high and how low of notes the sub can play right? So I would want 20hz becuase thats the lowest base sound a human can hear correct?

2. Sensitivety - The higher the db SPL the louder it can play with out distorting? If so why are all the big name brands around 89db and most of the stuff like sony or audiobahn at 94db? How big of a difference is 89-94db spl?

3. Box Size - Since I am paying out my ass to get a custom box made, would I contact the subwoofer company to get the extact size of box I should use for thw wattage I am giving the sub. And would a perfect cube box be best for a sub? If not how can I tell what shape it should be, and how does it change the sound?

If some of the questions are complicated just skip over them. But I don't want to waste alot of money and end up with a very low quality system. Im not buliding it to compete, but I might take it to some of the street comps just to see how I do ^^.

Your #2 is way off.

They only take that measurement with 1 watt of power at a distance of one meter. A gay Sony sub with a rating of 94db sensitivity can be demolished in SPL & SQ by a sub with say a xmax of 25mm each way or more. That is NOT a rating of the subs at full potential. There are MANY other factors that contribute to how loud the sub will get at it's full potential, & how it can keep it's cool doing it.

An Adire Brahma rated around 88db sensitivity would ROAST A-N-Y Sony sub no matter what they claim their sensitivity is.

If sensitivity were THAT important, than Audiobahn subs would be the undisputed kings, and we know thats not the case.

But hey, if you can find a sub with a high sensitivity rating, long xmax, and good power handling capability, and it fits within your budget and space, then by all means, don't pass it up.

Your #1 is not very important. If you go around only looking for subs that can play down to atleast 20Hz, you may pass up some pretty potent subs, like an Orion H2, and possibly end up with some gay Sony sub. IMO, upto 27Hz is acceptable.

Your #3 is off aswell. You don't need a perfect cube for you sub to be at it's best. Just make sure the box is deep enough so that the magnet isn't all up on the back of the box, also try to make the box as close to the recommended volume as possible also adding about .1-.25 cubic feet to account for the space the sub takes up (displacement), and you should be str8.

Good Luck //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 

[WarDrumz 10+ year member]

Back to the Frequency Response issue...

Let's say you want your subs to be vented/ported. Lets say your box is tuned @32hz. What good does the sub's ability to play down to 20Hz do then? The sub starts to be pretty useless below the box's tuning frequency.

Ok, let's say you prefer Sealed. Sealed boxes, if setup correctly, usually allow the sub to play as low as the song can play. But there are not many songs with significant energy below 28-30Hz. So again, what good does it do to base your sub selection on frequency response down to 20Hz when it will hardly ever play any significant energy that low.

Just something to think about...