Noob Amp question

[RushX1]

Greetings All,

Noob question for you. Currently my setup is this :
JVC KW-V40BT
JL Audio 12W6 Sub
JL Audio C2 component
Polk Audio Momo Db1 (rear)
Amps:
JBL MSA5001
Polk Audio PA D4000.4

I was curious about the JBL 5001 Amp which has gone into protection mode more times than I care for. I have taken it to multiple people and everyone has pretty much said that it is shot.
My question is, I have seen a few 500 watt rms amps out there and just wanted to replace it without having to go into a shop.
Could I just typically buy an amp and since I have all my wiring current, couldn't I just swap it out?
Now, I am in no way shape or form experienced enough to do the job if it is more than just a swap out is why I am asking
Is there anything else I should be aware of if I can just swap it out?
Any assistance greatly appreciated

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[1aespinoza 10+ year member]

Greetings All,

Noob question for you. Currently my setup is this :
JVC KW-V40BT
JL Audio 12W6 Sub
JL Audio C2 component
Polk Audio Momo Db1 (rear)
Amps:
JBL MSA5001
Polk Audio D1000

I was curious about the JBL 5001 Amp which has gone into protection mode more times than I care for. I have taken it to multiple people and everyone has pretty much said that it is shot.
My question is, I have seen a few 500 watt rms amps out there and just wanted to replace it without having to go into a shop.
Could I just typically buy an amp and since I have all my wiring current, couldn't I just swap it out?
Now, I am in no way shape or form experienced enough to do the job if it is more than just a swap out is why I am asking
Is there anything else I should be aware of if I can just swap it out?
Any assistance greatly appreciated

Both of those amps are subwoofer amplifiers. Are you running both on that w6?

 

[RushX1]

Both of those amps are subwoofer amplifiers. Are you running both on that w6?

I apologize, that was a copy and paste that was wrong. My front is a Polk PA 4000.4

 

[1aespinoza 10+ year member]

I apologize, that was a copy and paste that was wrong. My front is a Polk PA 4000.4

Ah, good deal. In that case, remove and replace is pretty straight forward. A mono (one channel) amp needs only the power/ground/blue wires, rca inputs, and subwoofer wires. There will be a knob labeled GAIN, turn that all the way counterclockwise before powering up your amp. After that, turn radio volume to about 75%. Then turn GAIN clockwise until bass volume is to your liking.

 

[RushX1]

Ah, good deal. In that case, remove and replace is pretty straight forward. A mono (one channel) amp needs only the power/ground/blue wires, rca inputs, and subwoofer wires. There will be a knob labeled GAIN, turn that all the way counterclockwise before powering up your amp. After that, turn radio volume to about 75%. Then turn GAIN clockwise until bass volume is to your liking.

Beauty! Thanks for the reply. Was hoping it was that simple

 

[tommydh 10+ year member]

I suggest for a W6 to get more than 500watts rms. Those subs like 750 range of clean power. I'd look at something in the 1000watt range from someone like a RF prime or punch line American Bass SQ or so. Also make sure that your current power wire is at least 4 ga for an amp of that range. If you had it installed at a shop the first time you should be ok make sure you pull the fuse at battery before swapping

 

[RushX1]

I suggest for a W6 to get more than 500watts rms. Those subs like 750 range of clean power. I'd look at something in the 1000watt range from someone like a RF prime or punch line American Bass SQ or so. Also make sure that your current power wire is at least 4 ga for an amp of that range. If you had it installed at a shop the first time you should be ok make sure you pull the fuse at battery before swapping

Thanks so much for that. I learned something here. To be honest, I "thought" that RMS was max wattage,guess I am wrong. So, I could typically run more then is what you are telling me. I mean, my wife will NOT like hearing that...lol

 

[Lasherž]

Thanks so much for that. I learned something here. To be honest, I "thought" that RMS was max wattage,guess I am wrong. So, I could typically run more then is what you are telling me. I mean, my wife will NOT like hearing that...lol

RMS is the max rated continuous power. Max is a marketing term that doesn't mean anything. He's talking about subs with RMS power above the numbers he's quoting. In other words, you shouldn't take a sub meant to accept 5000W and put 500W into it and expect it to sound as good as a 500W rms sub. I agree, a lot of energy can be used up just getting them moving, so only at above certain thresholds are you getting the sound the manufacturer intended. It's also tempting at that point to go above the clipping point (close to the RMS rating) and that's not a very good idea for thermal reasons.

Technically many good subwoofers can be run above their RMS rating but don't push it or you'll have a bill and it depends on the enclosure. Free air with that much power is going to cause overexcursion damage quickly. Also if you clip them above their rating that's not going to last long before it overheats and dies. I'm running a Hertz SW with 1000RMS at 1100W, I wouldn't try the same with a non-reputable brand and I know the amp isn't near clipping so the power will be clean.

 

[RushX1]

RMS is the max rated continuous power. Max is a marketing term that doesn't mean anything. He's talking about subs with RMS power above the numbers he's quoting. In other words, you shouldn't take a sub meant to accept 5000W and put 500W into it and expect it to sound as good as a 500W rms sub. I agree, a lot of energy can be used up just getting them moving, so only at above certain thresholds are you getting the sound the manufacturer intended. It's also tempting at that point to go above the clipping point (close to the RMS rating) and that's not a very good idea for thermal reasons.

Technically many good subwoofers can be run above their RMS rating but don't push it or you'll have a bill and it depends on the enclosure. Free air with that much power is going to cause overexcursion damage quickly. Also if you clip them above their rating that's not going to last long before it overheats and dies. I'm running a Hertz SW with 1000RMS at 1100W, I wouldn't try the same with a non-reputable brand and I know the amp isn't near clipping so the power will be clean.

Thanks for the info on that. I decided to pull the trigger today and got a new amp. My buddy coaxed me into a Kenwood XR601-1 and said I wouldn't be disappointed. Sure enough, he was right. I am extremely pleased and quite honestly, I had dealt with this JBL amp issue for so long that technically speaking, I am really just now breaking in this Sub. And no joke, I think it lived for the first time today..lol
Thanks for all your replies and assistance guys, really appreciate it!