New Toyota tundra install. Having several issues

Jimg

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I have a couple different post open with different issues so let’s move it all to this one Location.

let’s start with the good first. The Sony xmgs4 channel is a great amp I am getting zero noise , they are dead quiet. I wish it had more power it is only doing around 70 watt per channel.

I ran new speaker wires to each speaker. I wanted to run an active setup.
using all ofc power cable
doors are properly treated
speakers are in phase
everything so far on the install is correct


1st issue. It seems the idatalink and the jvc kw-z1000w head unit tries to put a factory preset tune into the system
I should be able to figure a way to get a flat signal and plan on running a dsp not sure what one yet. I have the Dayton 408 but I might change from this one to something else

2nd issue. The speakers sound like garbage
I am using a set of silver flute 6.5 inch and a set of focal iss tweeters.
getting no mid base
and the tweeters are terrible


Here is where things get interesting, if I move my head close to the center console so about 18 inches the whole system comes alive. I can hear details in the speakers that I can not hear in the normal driving position. Sound is much better

So it is obvious that the speaker selection I have chosen and using the factory locations for the speakers is an issue With being off axis and cancellation Issues.
Will correct time alignment fix this problem, or is it car specific and speaker specific, time alignment may or may not fix the acoustics of the Tundra. Or will time alignment adjustments most if the time fix this problem.


I have thought about going the direction of using a different door speaker able to provide more midbass
then having kick panels model up to fit the silver flute 6 1/2 more on axis and then using actual tweeter pods aimed more on axis on the dash


I am going to keep this post open. I am sure I will have multiple questions as the install progresses.

thanks in advance to all the ones that can get me started in the right direction
 

winkychevelle

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Ponchatoula, La
I have a couple different post open with different issues so let’s move it all to this one Location.

let’s start with the good first. The Sony xmgs4 channel is a great amp I am getting zero noise , they are dead quiet. I wish it had more power it is only doing around 70 watt per channel.

I ran new speaker wires to each speaker. I wanted to run an active setup.
using all ofc power cable
doors are properly treated
speakers are in phase
everything so far on the install is correct


1st issue. It seems the idatalink and the jvc kw-z1000w head unit tries to put a factory preset tune into the system
I should be able to figure a way to get a flat signal and plan on running a dsp not sure what one yet. I have the Dayton 408 but I might change from this one to something else

2nd issue. The speakers sound like garbage
I am using a set of silver flute 6.5 inch and a set of focal iss tweeters.
getting no mid base
and the tweeters are terrible


Here is where things get interesting, if I move my head close to the center console so about 18 inches the whole system comes alive. I can hear details in the speakers that I can not hear in the normal driving position. Sound is much better

So it is obvious that the speaker selection I have chosen and using the factory locations for the speakers is an issue With being off axis and cancellation Issues.
Will correct time alignment fix this problem, or is it car specific and speaker specific, time alignment may or may not fix the acoustics of the Tundra. Or will time alignment adjustments most if the time fix this problem.


I have thought about going the direction of using a different door speaker able to provide more midbass
then having kick panels model up to fit the silver flute 6 1/2 more on axis and then using actual tweeter pods aimed more on axis on the dash


I am going to keep this post open. I am sure I will have multiple questions as the install progresses.

thanks in advance to all the ones that can get me started in the right direction
Time alignment can move that perfect listening spot around but every speaker has a point in which it starts beaming. The larger the speaker the lower the freequency it starts beaming.

Idk how high you have your flutes playing but definitely try and keep them sub 3khz. Mine are actually crossed 50-2khz at 12db and my tweeters are at 4khz at 12db. The added drop off from the mid and tweeter fill in the gap between.

Tweeters usually should be mounted within 20° or better to on axis but firing at the windshield has been known to work ok. If the tweeters sound harsh try turning the crossover point up on them or flipping the polarity on the passenger side.

Midbass is difficult and each install somewhat unique. Sealed doors a solid mounting surface and a decent seal from the speaker front to door card goes a long way.

That said if you have loud tires or high road noise it's going to be difficult to get midbass to the levels needed to overcome that noise. But parked decent midbass should be doable.

Measuring frequency response in cabin can give you a clue as to what is happening because it will show you what frequency is missing and which one is excessive.

Some vehicles are known to have severe nulls in the midbass range due to cancellation. It is not uncommon for sq style builds to put a small sub up front on the floor board or under the seats to kill that null. Infinite baffle in the kicks is another option.

Me personally my next build will be front firing ports on a center console 6th order designed for 30-65hz hopefully allowing the subs to add to the midbass and give me even more chest thumping midbass.
 

winkychevelle

CarAudio.com Veteran
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Ponchatoula, La
And the jvc has built in time alignment you just need to set up.

I also wouldn't worry about putting silverflutes on axis as they aren't good at playing upper midrange where on axis/off axis would matter.
 
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Jimg

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Winky

what would bu your speaker set up of choice

subs being used are two Rockford fosgate 8 inch subs running on 600 watts


budget of $1500 or less on front stage what would you go with on the front stage



what brand? Model?
door speaker?
midrange ?
teeter?

Toyota tundra.
 

winkychevelle

CarAudio.com Veteran
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Ponchatoula, La
Stereo integrity tm65mkiv
Stereo integrity m3 carbon
Stereo integrity m25 mkii

I would also consider the purifi PTT6.5X04-NFA-01 but they are expensive granted if you ditched the midrange and just ran midbass and tweeter it would be within budget.

My current setup is the silverflutes and m25tweeter. I'm considering going to the 8inch silverflutes or wait for the tm8 from stereo integrity as well as idk if I want to go 3way. The CDT unity 8 is a good wideband driver that can cover midrange and tweeter ranges.
 

hispls

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budget of $1500 or less
I'm not sure that just throwing money into auditioning new components is going to be the fast and easy answer here. What you have isn't garbage and can you really know for sure whatever you try to replace them with will have better off-axis performance? Altering or improving mounting location/aiming of your current gear would probably give you the results you're after you've confirmed crossover points aren't part of your problem.
 
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winkychevelle

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Ponchatoula, La
I'm not sure that just throwing money into auditioning new components is going to be the fast and easy answer here. What you have isn't garbage and can you really know for sure whatever you try to replace them with will have better off-axis performance? Altering or improving mounting location/aiming of your current gear would probably give you the results you're after you've confirmed crossover points aren't part of your problem.
Totally agree with this statement
 

Jimg

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update

1 yes the factory crossover curves and eq settings can be set to flat with adjustments. So we are good on this


I think this is the big problem

1 I have a bad channel on one of my rca cables. left tweeter is cutting out, I have narrowed it down to a bad cable

2 This is where I think I have an issue with the JVC. I just read the short version of the quick start guide with the JVC
Here is something that JVC might want to look at making a correction on.
On a standard install front speaker, rear speaker, sub speaker setup the RCA preout configuration is, on the top 2 it controls the rear, on the middle 2 it controls the front, on the bottom 2 it controls the sub,

If changed to a 3way speaker system in the headunit , the top 2 control the tweeter, the middle 2 control the mid range, and the bottom two control the sub

So on this JVC headunit they reverse the preout of the tweeter and midrange on the 3 way from a standard front, rear, sub setup orientation.
I will pull the head unit and check the orientation of the RCA coming out of the head unit.

Side note what is a good flexible RCA cable I have been using knuconceptz Krystal cables, they are almost to stiff with the limited space I have behind the dash. and the amp rack I have under the seat
I am looking at the T-Spec v10 cables, are they good to go
 

Jimg

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New rca to replace the bad one

Qlogic kick panel ordered

Will update with progress
 

Jimg

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Update

I have been playing with the silver flutes and just can not get what I want out of them.

I spoke to stereo integrity today and ordered a set of the tm65, a set of the M3 carbon midrange and a set of the MK25 tweeters

I have my kick panels in from qlogic.

Equipment list
JVC z1000W head unit
ZAPCO dspz8IV
Sony xm-gs4 will use this to bridge down to 2 channels to get 160 watts to the tm65
Sony xm-gs4 70 watts to the m3 carbons and 70 watts to the MK25
Sony xm-gs100 this will be ran to two 8 inch subs behind the rear seat

I also have a set of 5.25 silver flute speakers in the box
also a set of massive ct2 tweeters in the box

qlogic kick panels



My question now would be, based on the equipment and speakers I have ,here are the couple of options on the install I am looking at.


option 1 tm65 in the door, the M3 carbons in the dash location firing into the windshield and the MK25 tweeters in an adjustable pod either in the sail panel or a little lower in the A pillar closer to the dash location, and keep the tweeter on axis or close to it.

Option 2 tm 65 in the door, use the qlogic with the silverflute 5.25 in the kick panel, then use the mk25 in the dash location pointed up into the windshield

Option 3 tm65 in the door qlogic with the silverflute 5.25 in the kick , and use the m3 in the dash location pointed into the windshield and not even use the tweeter.

Option 4 tm65 door m3 in the kick panels then the 25 tweeter in the dash

Option 5 Get a little creative tm65 in the door , then in the kick panel run the silverflute 5 .25 inch along with the m25 tweeter but use a passive crossover to seperate the woofer from the tweeter along with the dsp to to cut the lower frequencies of the 5.25 Then use m3 in the dash at low output with the dsp just to bring up the sound stage.


What option would you start with, and your reason why. Is there a different option combo would you look at based on the equipment I have.
 

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