Need opinion on good 3000+ amp

Blackout67

CarAudio.com Regular
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Ohio
Got a new car and currently just using old equipment. Just threw my 2 Sundown Ev4 12's in the back seat since the trunk is so small. Got em on a Sundown sfb-2000. Gonna be getting new subs (either some Dayton audios or SSA), but before that I'm getting a new amp. And before that I'm getting a high output alternator (320 amp from Autotech Alternators).

Just need to get the money and I wanna plan out what I'm getting. Something that puts out around 3k watts. Was looking at the JP23, which amp dynos at 2900 @ 1 ohm. It looks good and it's a Korean half bridge amp with a bass knob that shows amp temp, voltage, and clipping. The other serious contender is the Sundown SIA2500 rated at 2500 watts either 1 or 2 ohm. But if it's like it's smaller versions, it'll put out probably 400-500 watts more than rated at 1 ohm. It's small and fullbridge with a clip light indicator only and since resistance fluctuates through out the song, it'll be nice that it's putting out good power at higher ohms.

And then a runner up would be a soundqubed amp. Their amps are dirt cheap like 3000 watts for less than $300. With a clip light indicator but the price is what makes them seem sketchy. Makes me question the build quality and can't seem to find reliable amp Dyno tests for the ones I'm looking at.

Also, would one AGM battery up front with the ho alternator and big 3 be enough to hand that? I also planned on getting a JP84 4 channel amp so that's gonna be a decent amperage draw
 
Got a new car and currently just using old equipment. Just threw my 2 Sundown Ev4 12's in the back seat since the trunk is so small. Got em on a Sundown sfb-2000. Gonna be getting new subs (either some Dayton audios or SSA), but before that I'm getting a new amp. And before that I'm getting a high output alternator (320 amp from Autotech Alternators).

Just need to get the money and I wanna plan out what I'm getting. Something that puts out around 3k watts. Was looking at the JP23, which amp dynos at 2900 @ 1 ohm. It looks good and it's a Korean half bridge amp with a bass knob that shows amp temp, voltage, and clipping. The other serious contender is the Sundown SIA2500 rated at 2500 watts either 1 or 2 ohm. But if it's like it's smaller versions, it'll put out probably 400-500 watts more than rated at 1 ohm. It's small and fullbridge with a clip light indicator only and since resistance fluctuates through out the song, it'll be nice that it's putting out good power at higher ohms.

And then a runner up would be a soundqubed amp. Their amps are dirt cheap like 3000 watts for less than $300. With a clip light indicator but the price is what makes them seem sketchy. Makes me question the build quality and can't seem to find reliable amp Dyno tests for the ones I'm looking at.

Also, would one AGM battery up front with the ho alternator and big 3 be enough to hand that? I also planned on getting a JP84 4 channel amp so that's gonna be a decent amperage draw
Id prob look at a secondary battery to add for the consumption and supply needed. It will help from your Alt from working so hard even though it will be an HO alt.What Daytons?and which SSA subs are you looking at? You going for more of a SQ install sound?What vehicle?Enclosure.. Building new for the subs chosen?
 
An option to consider. My 2ks get down just fine. Waiting to strap them later
 
Id prob look at a secondary battery to add for the consumption and supply needed. It will help from your Alt from working so hard even though it will be an HO alt.What Daytons?and which SSA subs are you looking at? You going for more of a SQ install sound?What vehicle?Enclosure.. Building new for the subs chosen?
Looking at the MX line or the SSA Icon. I know that's a no brainer to a lot of people but I really like Dayton audio products and they ship over night to me because I live in Cincinnati. I'd be getting 3 of those MX 12s or 2 Icons. Was also looking at Soundqubed HDX 12. Was wanting to do sealed as my last 4 builds have been ported. But we'll see. Looking for a good mix of sq and SPL. Don't want to build a box for a idmax they're ridiculous. In an 03 mustang
 
Looking at the MX line or the SSA Icon. I know that's a no brainer to a lot of people but I really like Dayton audio products and they ship over night to me because I live in Cincinnati. I'd be getting 3 of those MX 12s or 2 Icons. Was also looking at Soundqubed HDX 12. Was wanting to do sealed as my last 4 builds have been ported. But we'll see. Looking for a good mix of sq and SPL. Don't want to build a box for a idmax they're ridiculous. In an 03 mustang
I helped a neighbor do an install in his 14 stang couple years ago. A single ABass XFL 12 DVC2 in a 2.0@32htz was about all we could get in there without building the enclosure from inside and squeezing that Bich in there, with a PPI Phantom 1000.1D, a PPI Phantom 600.2 on some Polk DB 6.5 components up front, left rear speakers stock and put an old Concord 20.2 on those with some bass blockers for 5.25s. Kenwood HU and an Earthquake Din 7000 Preamp EQ. The dash kit and harness was almost a Grand alone. It was on all stock electrical with 0ga Big3. Joker sounded pretty dammned good. Sub could have used more power, but it was deff getting down just fine.There was no way to get a pair of 12s in there with the space given unless you give up the back seat for a built in enclosure with needing the proper Cu Ft for those subs. May be able to squeeze a pair of Tens and mount amp/amps on the rear of the seats possibly. He has since sold all the gear back to me, and picked up a 20 GT, and hasnt done anything with it yet with exception of some Mods to engine and exhaust so far and some Tuning that I know of.
 
Looking at the MX line or the SSA Icon. I know that's a no brainer to a lot of people but I really like Dayton audio products and they ship over night to me because I live in Cincinnati. I'd be getting 3 of those MX 12s or 2 Icons. Was also looking at Soundqubed HDX 12. Was wanting to do sealed as my last 4 builds have been ported. But we'll see. Looking for a good mix of sq and SPL. Don't want to build a box for a idmax they're ridiculous. In an 03 mustang
If you want to run Sealed? That HDX12 will suffer and not recommended. Id look at the HDS3 12 instead. Those do much better ported also, specs state they can be ran sealed.I like ported much better than sealed. Doesnt take as much power to make a sub do work, even the Dayton HO DVC4s Tens I have did much better ported. Gives those coils some breathing room to stay cooler inside the enclosure getting rid of the heat being produced, that Ive experienced over the years. You are deff going to need to give up the back seat for a pair of 12s in that car to get the proper enclosure built.You could prob remove the back Hatch and try to slide a prebuilt enclosure in.Just keep in mind the angle of the glass when the hatch is in the closed position and give at least 3/4- 1-1/2" clearance for some wave travel. I dont care much for the odd ohm loads for 3 sub duty. Thats me. Four A.Bass XO 10s would be really nice in there. They do really well for as inexpensive as they are
 
Looking at the MX line or the SSA Icon. I know that's a no brainer to a lot of people but I really like Dayton audio products and they ship over night to me because I live in Cincinnati. I'd be getting 3 of those MX 12s or 2 Icons. Was also looking at Soundqubed HDX 12. Was wanting to do sealed as my last 4 builds have been ported. But we'll see. Looking for a good mix of sq and SPL. Don't want to build a box for a idmax they're ridiculous. In an 03 mustang
Dayton Audio has the best Warranty in the Business hands down. Five year on the subs that I am aware of. Built very well too
 
I would look for amps with higher damping factors. I would avoid the full bridges with like 100 damping factor. I’d look to be at at least 250 or so, personally.

Looking at the MX line or the SSA Icon. I know that's a no brainer to a lot of people but I really like Dayton audio products and they ship over night to me because I live in Cincinnati. I'd be getting 3 of those MX 12s or 2 Icons. Was also looking at Soundqubed HDX 12. Was wanting to do sealed as my last 4 builds have been ported. But we'll see. Looking for a good mix of sq and SPL. Don't want to build a box for a idmax they're ridiculous. In an 03 mustang

Check out the SSA Evil 15’s and 18’s. 3500w and they do well sealed. Those are ridiculous woofers; I really like them. They model very well in sealed for lows, IMO. They do want or can do best with a relatively massive box.
 
I helped a neighbor do an install in his 14 stang couple years ago. A single ABass XFL 12 DVC2 in a 2.0@32htz was about all we could get in there without building the enclosure from inside and squeezing that Bich in there, with a PPI Phantom 1000.1D, a PPI Phantom 600.2 on some Polk DB 6.5 components up front, left rear speakers stock and put an old Concord 20.2 on those with some bass blockers for 5.25s. Kenwood HU and an Earthquake Din 7000 Preamp EQ. The dash kit and harness was almost a Grand alone. It was on all stock electrical with 0ga Big3. Joker sounded pretty dammned good. Sub could have used more power, but it was deff getting down just fine.There was no way to get a pair of 12s in there with the space given unless you give up the back seat for a built in enclosure with needing the proper Cu Ft for those subs. May be able to squeeze a pair of Tens and mount amp/amps on the rear of the seats possibly. He has since sold all the gear back to me, and picked up a 20 GT, and hasnt done anything with it yet with exception of some Mods to engine and exhaust so far and some Tuning that I know of.
Was planning on removing the back seats so I can fit a bigger box back there. Currently I have a 3.6 cu ft box just sitting behind me in the back seats. Planned on taking out the backs seats and building a wooden platform back there so I can have more room and the box isnt tryna slide everywhere
 
I would look for amps with higher damping factors. I would avoid the full bridges with like 100 damping factor. I’d look to be at at least 250 or so, personally.



Check out the SSA Evil 15’s and 18’s. 3500w and they do well sealed. Those are ridiculous woofers; I really like them. They model very well in sealed for lows, IMO. They do want or can do best with a relatively massive box.
[
I would look for amps with higher damping factors. I would avoid the full bridges with like 100 damping factor. I’d look to be at at least 250 or so, personally.



Check out the SSA Evil 15’s and 18’s. 3500w and they do well sealed. Those are ridiculous woofers; I really like them. They model very well in sealed for lows, IMO. They do want or can do best with a relatively massive box.
What is damping factor
 
What is damping factor

It’s basically how well the amp can control the subs. I can explain way more in detail, but I think there’s quite a few various factors that play into damping factor. One is half bridge and full bridge amps have different styles of power supplies, and with the way I see a lot of full bridge sub amps done, it’s done to be cheap power, so there’s consequences to cheap power with these modern day full bridges. Wattage is not wattage, in that case, to an extent.
 
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