need help just sent 1000 dollars on install and its sounds worse then stock

dspencer24
10+ year member

Senior VIP Member
So, I just got back from the car audio shop and my heart and wallet are broken.This is my first time having a stock headunit i have a 2012 Mazda 3 hatch non bose

and my equiptment is

amp ppi 900.5

stock headunit

audison bit 10 processor.

front speaker id cxs 64 ran active

sub to come

It sounds horrible and tiny and worthless. and when they tried to tune it so it was louder and fuller it sounded horrible and distorted. The dealer said the head unit signal or the amp is causing it does this sound right ? not sure where to start is that amp to small or just crappy? or is it the speakers themselves I have never heard them active before. could it be the bit 10? they did the mids nicely to the door using mdf rings and some form of dyno mat. Pretty vague i guess i wanted to vent

would this set up sound bad ?

 
If u spent a grand on just what u have listed god I know ur butt hurts lol. After market player may offer a lot more tuning so u can get them to where u like. The amp is just fine for those speakers. How was gains set? Why did u leave shop knowing ur new $$$$ system sounds like crap?

 
And that is the reason why i learn to everything myself. Research research research and patience and it all pays through in the end. Literally and figurativley.

 
Buttraped. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/mad.gif.c18f003ab0ef8a0d9c27ca78d77a6392.gif//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crap.gif.7f4dd41e3e9b23fbd170a1ee6f65cecc.gif

 
First of all, if you have installed aftermarket speakers in stock locations it'll sound weak and anemic. Proper deadening of doors should help some, but really if they did it right and you're planning on a subwoofer the door speakers are CROSSED OVER so that you won't break them with low frequencies (with the understanding that a subwoofer will handle those frequencies).

I have very high quality components and amp on my fronts and it sounds weak without the subwoofer. Factory speakers often sound more bass-heavy than aftermarket but then again they'll distort and break once you try to give them more than 8 watts.

As far as sounding distorted, that amp isn't very good but it shouldn't be audibly bad within it's limits. Clearly somebody needs to spend a little time dialing in that processor.

Add a subwoofer and spend some time learning how to dial in that Audison and you should be able to get fine sound out of it.

 
And that is the reason why i learn to everything myself. Research research research and patience and it all pays through in the end. Literally and figurativley.
Im going on 6weeks researching an due to losing both my Expedition an Jeep in that time. Its help me learn a whole lot. God Knows my next system will be well planned an best bang for my patiently a waited bucks. Just chalk that G as a loss, talk to the guys on here fir a while an you will not be FunkyPup'd again....

 
First off, nice avatar.

Second, for that setup running a bit ten is serious overkill. I honestly would sell it and use that money and get an 80prs.

Third, the 900.5 is a nice amp, but not near powerful enough for that set of components ran active. It doesn't have enough power to give you great dynamic range. I would sell it and go with a PPI P900.4 and a P600.2 bridged to run sub duty. The 900.4 is the best bang for the buck amp. Can find tons of them used in great shape for around $150. I actually have one I'd let go for that price.

Fourth, as stated above aftermarket speakers will sound completely different and a lot of times worse than stock when first installed. The need to break in and loosen up. Also is your amp is probably high passed to keep from blowing the speakers so that you can run more power. Stock speakers are not high passed. The play those bass notes. I can promise your speakers will sound better when you get a sub in.

Fifth, treat your doors!!! It is 100% useless to upgrade speakers in your doors if you don't treat them. Seriously if you wouldnt be able to tell the difference between a $100 set and a $1000 set if your doors are untreated. Pull your door cards off and put 2-4 layers of something like dynamat(don't actually use dynamat because better can be had for cheaper). Do the 2-4 layers on the outer panel. After that, seal up any holes in the door. Many ways to do this. Search on here. Almost everyone does this there own way so there is no right answer. I personally took a plastic cutting board and placed it over my biggest hole and then duct taped it in place. Then I covered it in 2 layers on the inside reaching through the speaker hole and did the entire inside like that. Then I did two layer on the inner most side. After that I bought some cheap fleece and covered the door and the inside of the door card to reduce rattles. My doors are about 25lbs heavier each but the difference is night and day.

Sixth is to also deaden the rest of your car. I did my firewall and floors and it sounds great. Way less road noise than before.

Seventh, do you ha e your sub or sub's picked out yet? I would do a set of Sundown SD8's or E8 V3's. Maybe run a PPI P1000.1 instead of the 600.2. Depends on how much bass you want. The SD8's are amazing though. SQ beasts but can still play low and loud and are also shallow mount and take up no room.

Basically man I would sell the bit ten and the 900.5 and kind of start in a different direction. And don't go back to the shoo because they screwed you on the install cost

 
those Components can take A LOT more power and bit one is overkill unless your trying to keep the stock factory head unit for aesthetic looks. Seriously though, you just need to play around with the setup and do a proper seal with the doors as stated above. Do everything yourself so you know exactly what the ins and outs of your system.

The bit 10 cost 370 new - ebay the ppi amp is 220 - amazon/sonic, and the ID comps are 380 - amazon/sonic which is total 920$ + 80 dollar install job, the price is not too bad actually. They priced it right on the money but with that much spent, they should have not let you walked out unsatisfied like that..

 
I got some sleep so I can be alil more clear now. The reason I went the route I did was my last system was stolen, so I bought a class D amp to hide under my seat and the components were put in the stock location even the tweeter. They sold me the processor at 400 new and 200 install because Im keeping the stock deck. I also left the shop cause it was 9 pm they couldnt figure out why it keep distorting at such low volume so they kept trying different things because they never heard my amp or speakers I brought to them ( all they sell is audison and hertz so they keep trying to play with them. I am going back today to have them mess with the processor ill let you know how it comes out

So I bought the components myself and the amp on my own.

prices were

125 for amp wire and rca and wiring kit

150 for component install

400 for bit 10

200 for bit 10 install

125 for amp install

 
ok so it was the tunning that made the speakers sound so punny they still arent sounding the greatest but now they sound 10 times better then before . he had the mids crossed at 80 on -18 slope with the gain turned down on the bit 10 . He crossed it down to 60 with a -12 slope. now I have my mid bass . Its still not what I have heard before but it sounds better . Also he said he added the front and rear to the bit ten instead of just the front speakers and he said it made them sound alot better .

 
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dspencer24

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