Need help deciding on a pair of subs

BoomTown

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Hello all!
I've come here seeking some assistance on deciding on a pair of either 12 or 15 inch subs. They will be in the back of a 2000 Chevy Blazer 2door for now, and moved into a similar size vehicle in the spring. I'll be running either a Skar rp2000 or a Wolfram C2400. I've got it narrowed down to the following
Fi Xv3
Deaf Ponce Machete Super Sport or Hannibal
Sundown SA Rev 3
Wolfram CU or AG
American Bass XFL
NVX VCW
Ampre Audio 2.5 RVE

I'm looking for something that can get down low, sound good and keep it around $230 for each SUB. Also, I'll probably be trying my hand at building my own ported box for these. Any suggestions or advice would be awesome!
 
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I feel like every time this ask comes up the feedback Spirals So maybe someone just say it early
- get a taramps md3k, basically same price as those Chinese options and can power most of those entry level 3” coil woofers (xfl’s, etc). Electrical stiffening will be required for all those amps anyway.

I have xfl’s and I bought them because they were inexpensive but if I was buying again I would give those ia lethal injections a look. When I was researching subs I like that they were made in USA. Alternatively, if you’re set on one of those amps you stated. A 2.5 Vc sub around 750rms will probably move a little easier at The power you would have.
 
I would use something with a 2.5in coil, you'll be lucky to clamp 1500w out of those amps with proper electrical. I'm not a fan of underpowering subs and 3 inch coils would be underpowered with a 2-2.4kw amp.
Would it better to run them under powered for a little bit and upgrade the amp when I switch my vehicle. Or just look to match the subs to the amps now,
 
Would it better to run them under powered for a little bit and upgrade the amp when I switch my vehicle. Or just look to match the subs to the amps now,

If you plan on upgrading its fine, just be aware of your limitations aka dont try to jack the gain or bass boost up. To properly power your subs at a minimum your amp should be twice as powerful as the combined power handling of the subs you plan on using.


Are RE subs still any good? They were the forum boner 11-12 years ago when I was here.
SE-X v2 12"
https://www.woofersetc.com/c-23-sub...50w-rms-dual-2-ohm-se-x-series-subwoofer.html

Having a hard time between that and the Sundown SA 12.

Either will be a spec sealed box to blend into the trunk of a BMW 430i GC.

I copped the very last EFA 1k from Synergy, being delivered today.


RE subs are very overpriced for the performance, I wouldn't waste my time or money on them.
 
I feel like every time this ask comes up the feedback Spirals So maybe someone just say it early
- get a taramps md3k, basically same price as those Chinese options and can power most of those entry level 3” coil woofers (xfl’s, etc). Electrical stiffening will be required for all those amps anyway.

I have xfl’s and I bought them because they were inexpensive but if I was buying again I would give those ia lethal injections a look. When I was researching subs I like that they were made in USA. Alternatively, if you’re set on one of those amps you stated. A 2.5 Vc sub around 750rms will probably move a little easier at The power you would have.
I'll have to look into that amp. I will be doing electrical upgrades in the future, just need spring to come. So even if I buy the bigger subs and amp can't I run it at a higher impedance to make it work till then? Or is that not a good idea
 
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I'll have to look into that amp. I will be doing electrical upgrades in the future, just need spring to come. So even if I buy the bigger subs and amp can't I run it at a lower impedance to make it work till then? Or is that not a good idea
Sooooo....it’s generally ill advised to have the attitude of “add big boom equipment now and beef up your electrical later”. The running at a lower impedance thing wont be any different the 4 Ohm power output on those amps you listed isn’t going to be enough for two of any of the options you Listed. That said consider the following:

-save up your dough...you won’t get your return selling relatively new but still used gear.
-Commit to initial electrical beef up. Minimum big three wiring (50-70$ In Welding wire and terminal lugs) and A good rear agm battery

That money spent may impact your immediately available sub and and amp budget. and I state this based on the fun fact that your blazers factory alt is 100 amp. Your best Chance with relatively factory electrical for the kinda power you inquired on will be a different amp.
 
Sooooo....it’s generally ill advised to have the attitude of “add big boom equipment now and beef up your electrical later”. The running at a lower impedance thing wont be any different the 4 Ohm power output on those amps you listed isn’t going to be enough for two of any of the options you Listed. That said consider the following:

-save up your dough...you won’t get your return selling relatively new but still used gear.
-Commit to initial electrical beef up. Minimum big three wiring (50-70$ In Welding wire and terminal lugs) and A good rear agm battery

That money spent may impact your immediately available sub and and amp budget. and I state this based on the fun fact that your blazers factory alt is 100 amp. Your best Chance with relatively factory electrical for the kinda power you inquired on will be a different amp.
So on my drive home I decided to probably stick to the amps in the OP, and find a pair of subs better matched so I don't have to spend any time wiring up anything extra in this vehicle, unless I have to. I figure if I do it this way, I can have something in the vehicle now, and not have to do too much to support it hopefully. Since I can always sell it off when I do decide to go bigger, and get the supporting electrical done first in the new first place.. I was thinking about this kinda wrong
 
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So that all said, I could do the big 3 and a battery,and be OK? I'm not looking to install a alt in this vehicle

Yes that would be fine, get the most powerful battery you can afford. You will still be limited electrically but you can manage it with a voltage meter wired to the power input on the amp and exercising self control with the volume knob. You can always trickle charge the batteries if your alt can't keep them topped off. Be aware that if the alt is at its max capacity 100% of the time the life of it will be seriously shortened and you need to spin the engine to at least 2k rpm for the alt to make its full power.
 
So that all said, I could do the big 3 and a battery,and be OK? I'm not looking to install a alt in this vehicle
On my way home I thought more about it and I think I'll stick with the original amps mentioned, and find subs to match as you said. I just want something for now, and if underpowering the bigger subs isn't good for them then I'll toss that out and do it right.
 
On my way home I thought more about it and I think I'll stick with the original amps mentioned, and find subs to match as you said. I just want something for now, and if underpowering the bigger subs isn't good for them then I'll toss that out and do it right.
I just love when an Op quotes himself... Anyways I'd lose that 105a alt in that Blazer and get real... unless you're dealing with a 90's 1000 watt amp you'll likely need real voltage/amperage.
Late 1990's Blazer?.. yea... I had one till recently.
Freakin doorjamb metal tore and the hatch glass/hasp separated at the worst times... and I was tuned 31hz hitting only around 147-148db on a good day with a pair of 12's.
Get rid of the charging problem (alts can be had for that for cheap) and step up... otherwise you have a lateral move or worse yet a band-aid.
A cheap AD244 (150A+ drop-in) with 2 lead acids up front with a GR31 Agm in back did ok powering this...
n1R2oS2.jpg

BgrwbZT.jpg

Don't hate... even with my budget power and budget sub choice it did ok imo, and it did tear the car apart eventually.
Then I sold it to a "Junke for Jesus" locally for pennies.
 
So that all said, I could do the big 3 and a battery,and be OK? I'm not looking to install a alt in this vehicle
Of course you don’t have to get a new alt but you have to have power to make power. I factored you wereTrying to keep total investment down when you stated your budget for subs. Honestly look at a brazilian and consider two 750 watt 2.5vc subs with ease. Those amps you stated are both going to be a challenge to run and get
Anything close to the stated output ratings. 2k is still a good amount of amperage pull. That ad244 sounds like a good idea
 
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BoomTown

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