Need help choosing a sub, already have the box and amp

I'll admit, I haven't messed around with DSP's in quite some time. I had a couple of old Audio Control EQT's back in the late 90's and I installed them, but didn't really know what I was doing. That's going to be my next venture, replacing the door speakers and such. My head unit is limited with control, however I wouldn't consider myself a very "serious hobbyist". I've never used an amp for door speakers before, so I have some reading up to do on all that. Is it crossovers that allow you to run a set of components (4 speakers) to 2 channels of a 4 channel amp? Like I said, I need to do some reading up on all of that.

DATS is a device that allows you to measure a speaker's theile small parameters, which you then transfer over into a box design program like Bass Box Pro.

DSP is a digital signal processor.

2 vastly different pieces of equipment
 
Dats and dsp are two completely different things however if you're using the stock hu a dsp would be a wise investment.
I'll do some reading up on that, thanks for the suggestion! Side note, how much would a guy be looking to spend for a decent speaker upgrade with 4 channel amp? It's all new to me, and much like subs the prices vary greatly. Is there anything around the $150 range for a pair of 6.5's? The front has a 6x9 and separate tweeter and I'm thinking of putting 6.5's in there as well, possibly a component set there.
 
I'll do some reading up on that, thanks for the suggestion! Side note, how much would a guy be looking to spend for a decent speaker upgrade with 4 channel amp? It's all new to me, and much like subs the prices vary greatly. Is there anything around the $150 range for a pair of 6.5's? The front has a 6x9 and separate tweeter and I'm thinking of putting 6.5's in there as well, possibly a component set there.
Yeah but you have separate components already right? How are you planning on hooking up a 4ch amp to the factory hu
 
Yeah but you have separate components already right? How are you planning on hooking up a 4ch amp to the factory hu
I currently have just the factory speakers, which consist of 6x9's in the front door, dash tweeters, and 6.5's in the rear door. I'm using a Pioneer MVH-S600BS head unit. It's a cheapy, but had 4v pre outs and the features I needed. I want to upgrade the speakers and add a 4 channel amp for them. I did brief reading yesterday that answered a question I've had on passive crossovers allowing you to run separate speakers on the same channels, so that helped clear part of my concerns up. I still have a lot to learn though. I'm not a huge audiophile, I just want a little more output/sound/clarity out of the speakers.
 
I currently have just the factory speakers, which consist of 6x9's in the front door, dash tweeters, and 6.5's in the rear door. I'm using a Pioneer MVH-S600BS head unit. It's a cheapy, but had 4v pre outs and the features I needed. I want to upgrade the speakers and add a 4 channel amp for them. I did brief reading yesterday that answered a question I've had on passive crossovers allowing you to run separate speakers on the same channels, so that helped clear part of my concerns up. I still have a lot to learn though. I'm not a huge audiophile, I just want a little more output/sound/clarity out of the speakers.
Ok that clears that up then. As far as speakers go that's very subjective but there are some decent comps in your price range.
You should also research prepping your doors for better mid bass. That'll even make your factory speakers sound better then they do now.
 
I never followed up on this. The Skar sdr 10" sounded horrible. The website recommended 1.65 cubes, the sheet that came with the sub said 1.0 ported was recommended, so I don't know there.

I decided to go with a 12", I got the Incriminator I series 12. It's just okay I'd say. The box is so close between the doors that half of the port is blocked, so maybe that's effecting the sound. I need to pull the door panel and test.

Otherwise I may try to find someone to run the specs on a couple different subs to view potential output before I spend anymore money. My options are limited to 12's at this point now. The Demon 12 should work, I emailed SSA the other day.
 
I never followed up on this. The Skar sdr 10" sounded horrible. The website recommended 1.65 cubes, the sheet that came with the sub said 1.0 ported was recommended, so I don't know there.

I decided to go with a 12", I got the Incriminator I series 12. It's just okay I'd say. The box is so close between the doors that half of the port is blocked, so maybe that's effecting the sound. I need to pull the door panel and test.

Otherwise I may try to find someone to run the specs on a couple different subs to view potential output before I spend anymore money. My options are limited to 12's at this point now. The Demon 12 should work, I emailed SSA the other day.
This is what cheaping out on a custom ported box gets you. Instead of building a box specifically around the subwoofer. You are paying shipping, handling and returning fees just to try to find a sub that works with your garbage prefab box. Do you see the madness in that? all that money could have went to a proper designed and built box and save you time and money by now. But i have a feeling you'll be switching out at least 5 other subwoofers before you get the memo.
 
This is what cheaping out on a custom ported box gets you. Instead of building a box specifically around the subwoofer. You are paying shipping, handling and returning fees just to try to find a sub that works with your garbage prefab box. Do you see the madness in that? all that money could have went to a proper designed and built box and save you time and money by now. But i have a feeling you'll be switching out at least 5 other subwoofers before you get the memo.
Thanks for the constructive feedback! Hopefully that made your **** day a little better.
 
This is what cheaping out on a custom ported box gets you. Instead of building a box specifically around the subwoofer. You are paying shipping, handling and returning fees just to try to find a sub that works with your garbage prefab box. Do you see the madness in that? all that money could have went to a proper designed and built box and save you time and money by now. But i have a feeling you'll be switching out at least 5 other subwoofers before you get the memo.
Unfortunately unless one has building skills they have to rely on others and truth be known most shops don't know the first thing about building or designing boxes ...even proper speaker placement ...it's sad but true
 
Unfortunately unless one has building skills they have to rely on others and truth be known most shops don't know the first thing about building or designing boxes ...even proper speaker placement ...it's sad but true
One quick search on Craigslist, let go, offer up or facebook/instagram local audiogroups/builders will give you massive list of box builders with quality work, knowledge and stellar track record at your fingertips that will build for far cheaper than a shop.
 
One quick search on Craigslist, let go, offer up or facebook/instagram local audiogroups/builders will give you massive list of box builders with quality work, knowledge and stellar track record at your fingertips that will build for far cheaper than a shop.

I'm gonna add to this and say that if OP is on FB, join some car audio groups on there. Plenty of people there in your area or close by that you could ask about a simple ported or sealed box for the sub you want. Word gets around quickly.
 
Not too surprised skar specs are varying for box recommendations. Wouldn't be surprised if t/s parameters are way off.
A little surprised that the port is blocked off. Sounds like your biggest issue.I'd get a hold of fox box about that plus see if they'll take it back

If you want to do some testing with it why not sit the box in the back seat with sub firing forward and the port with room to breathe just to hear how it sounds.
Modeling won't do much good with the port being half blocked
 
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