Need help choosing a sub, already have the box and amp

dbakek
10+ year member

Junior Member
I'll be getting my Fox box for the truck here in the next few days. It's a 1.7 cubic foot box, ported to 36hz. You can mount a 10" or 12" in it, the depth available is 6.5", so it limits options. The trouble I'm having is that this is slightly large for a 10", but slightly small for a 12", that and the mounting depth are the biggest hurdles. I'll be using a Kicker CX1200.1, I can either do 600rms at 4, or 1200 at 2 with it.

I like the SSA demon series subs, I ran a DCON 10 for a number of years before it was stolen. I've also been considering the NEP Classic 10, the American Bass XD 10, or the Sundown E Series 10. I just don't know how any of them would do in that size box w/ 600w.

Any help of suggestions would be appreciated. I listen to a variety of music from rap to rock, even old bass cd's if I'm in the mood. I'd like to keep it around $200 for the sub if possible.

Thanks!

Edit: The box fires up with the port to the passenger side. Please hold the "screaming in the pillow" comments that parrot tits likes to throw around here
 
Last edited:
Good looking sub. I dont think 0.5 cu. Ft nor 5 htz is going to kill you on the performance of the sub with the power you are running. Itll be all about tuning at that point.The Ab and Sundown are great choices as well.All 3 would be a nice addition for the space and power in my opinion.Last shallow sub I ran was a Kole
https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_7359_Kole-Audio-MFW-10.html, it wasnt too bad.Gave some some staging.Raised rear seating after that get some room for more options.But Ive installed quite a few slim subs. Majority have been AB and Kickers. both have done fine for added sub stage/ entry level.In the end.. Its all about what you are willing to shell out as always in car audio.(How deep are you willing to dig in those pockets to get what you really want)- That addiction
 
Parrot tits?
Why not model it and see how it looks ? I'd run it @ 2ohms hopefully the port can handle the power of course if you model it you'll be able to see port velocity.
 
Whats this about tits?

Upfiring in a truck is literally screaming into a pillow. How do you people not understand this? The front wave from the cone has nowhere to go and is absorbed by the foam cushion and other soft materials composing the seat. That is half of your potential output- poof! Gone!

Ignorance is bliss.....


1.6cf isnt always oversized for a 10. I have 2 $18 10s in 4.2cf that do over 143db from the trunk....AND they play music great.

It all depends on damping abilities of the suspension.

20190428_182004.jpg
20190428_182857.jpg
 
Last edited:
Thanks for the replies all. I ended up choosing the Skar SDR 10", it just matched the box specs perfectly. If that one doesn't work out I'll likely go with the SSA 10 and put boards in the box to drop the internal volume.
 
Thanks for the replies all. I ended up choosing the Skar SDR 10", it just matched the box specs perfectly. If that one doesn't work out I'll likely go with the SSA 10 and put boards in the box to drop the internal volume.
I'm interested in hearing how it turns out skar up fire fox box.
 
I am too. After searching on the forum, it seems Skar isn't very well received for a couple of different reasons. I had no idea, and have never had a Skar product before, so we'll see how it goes. The seat bottom has metal on it over where the sub will be so maybe that'll help avoid the sound being absorbed there.

Unfortunately up/down fire were really my only options with limited height. This is the first box I've bought, I've made all my prior boxes so this has been a little frustrating. I may try making a fiberglass box and front face some 6.5's if I get more time next year, and depending on how this sounds. 6.5 is the biggest you can fit facing forward under these darn seats.
 
Modelling means inputting the tsp specs into a speaker design program like Bass Box Pro. This allows you to predict various performance metrics such as acoustic output, phase, group delay, port velocity and excursion.
That sounds pretty incredible actually. It's probably more useful on something I've built myself though I'd guess. The way this Fox Box is designed I wouldn't be able to get some of the measurements in the box for the parameters, that are there are a lot of angles which throw me off vs. a square or rectangular box
 
Well I had my own battle with my rid
I am too. After searching on the forum, it seems Skar isn't very well received for a couple of different reasons. I had no idea, and have never had a Skar product before, so we'll see how it goes. The seat bottom has metal on it over where the sub will be so maybe that'll help avoid the sound being absorbed there.

Unfortunately up/down fire were really my only options with limited height. This is the first box I've bought, I've made all my prior boxes so this has been a little frustrating. I may try making a fiberglass box and front face some 6.5's if I get more time next year, and depending on how this sounds. 6.5 is the biggest you can fit facing forward under these darn seats.
I had my own battle with a ridgeline down fire sealed 10 2 8s ported up fire just never was happy with the results. 8 and a half inches of height plastic cover on the bottom. Didn't want to do 6.5s but wasn't going to be able to get 8s front firing using 3/4 inch wood. I ended up getting some marine grade 5/8ths plywood double baffle where the 8s mounted so I could recess them into the box a little for clearance (almost not enough) a tight fit to say the least. It was worth the effort.
Some people really like thoes fox boxes so you might like it. That skar idk not had one either. The demon would probably do fine in that air space and tune. Would not mind having one myself. Up fire a lot of people seem to like that set up in a ram. I've not heard one just know in my truck front firing passenger side port worked for me.
It took a while for me to listen to what some people were saying around here too about what works best. Like I said though you might like it and that's what matters. So yeah curious about what you think of the combination
 
That sounds pretty incredible actually. It's probably more useful on something I've built myself though I'd guess. The way this Fox Box is designed I wouldn't be able to get some of the measurements in the box for the parameters, that are there are a lot of angles which throw me off vs. a square or rectangular box

Measuring the exact volume of the box is always a good idea but if you can't you can at least use the tsp's of the sub and just estimate your volume. Its good for comapring different volumes, port sizes and power levels.

Investing in a quality program like Bass Box Pro is a good idea if you are a serious hobbyist and build a lot of boxes.

Investing in a Dayton Audio DATS is also great if you are a serious hobbyist because often times a manufacturer's published theile small parameters are nowhere near close to what they claim to be.
 
Measuring the exact volume of the box is always a good idea but if you can't you can at least use the tsp's of the sub and just estimate your volume. Its good for comapring different volumes, port sizes and power levels.

Investing in a quality program like Bass Box Pro is a good idea if you are a serious hobbyist and build a lot of boxes.

Investing in a Dayton Audio DATS is also great if you are a serious hobbyist because often times a manufacturer's published theile small parameters are nowhere near close to what they claim to be.
I'll admit, I haven't messed around with DSP's in quite some time. I had a couple of old Audio Control EQT's back in the late 90's and I installed them, but didn't really know what I was doing. That's going to be my next venture, replacing the door speakers and such. My head unit is limited with control, however I wouldn't consider myself a very "serious hobbyist". I've never used an amp for door speakers before, so I have some reading up to do on all that. Is it crossovers that allow you to run a set of components (4 speakers) to 2 channels of a 4 channel amp? Like I said, I need to do some reading up on all of that.
 
Activity
No one is currently typing a reply...
Old Thread: Please note, there have been no replies in this thread for over 3 years!
Content in this thread may no longer be relevant.
Perhaps it would be better to start a new thread instead.

Similar threads

Here is my thought, theory. Those speakers are 80w rms. Half of that is 40w rms. Add the 40 to the 80 and you get 120w. Get an amp that is 120w...
2
2K
It depends on how cheap you wanna go but I've had excellent results with a 12inch power acoustic gothic sub in a small sealed enclosure for budget...
72
7K
I have 2 Sundown SA10v2 (1000w version) and just replaced my RF R1200 with a T-1500.1bd and OMG! I was considering Ampere Audio, JP23, Sundown...
5
2K
well, thats kind of an open ended question....., you can do 2500rms@1ohm, or you can do a pair of 1k-1200rms@2ohms. just have to know the amp...
5
2K

About this thread

dbakek

10+ year member
Junior Member
Thread starter
dbakek
Joined
Location
Omaha, NE
Start date
Participants
Who Replied
Replies
38
Views
5,025
Last reply date
Last reply from
dbakek
Screenshot 2024-03-07 184329.png

Doxquzme

    Mar 27, 2024
  • 0
  • 0
IMG_3075.jpeg

Daniel Lee

    Mar 27, 2024
  • 0
  • 0

Latest topics

Top