need assist Understanding amp specs

[AJStaples]

Hey, I posted a bit back about a new amp I got. I had a little trouble with it, and I think it has to do with the speakers I paired with it. I want new speakers anyway, so Im also looking to get recommendations for this. It's a pioneer 4/3/2 Hi Res 1200W amp. Model gm-dx874. I had kicker k5 6x8s (75w rms) on channel A, and a Polk db1040dvc @2ohm (270w rms) on channel B.
I don't understand the manual where it says "subwoofer" and "other than subwoofer"
I will attach screenshot.
The sub is kind of meh and has scratchy sound at mid volume.
The k5s were ok for a bit, then developed a similar crunchy sound.
My gains were set well, but i do keep the volume cranked a lot.
Here's what I think I understand about the manual specs.
For my speakers, I should be looking for something that does 100w rms?
(Polk mm572 5x7s)??
And a sub that's about 300w rms
(Kicker CVR 10 dvc 2ohm {run series to make 4ohm} (wants 350w rms)

Would this be an ideal matchup to get the most out of this amplifier?
Any other recommendations for the speakers? Its hard to find something thats 100w rms, only ones I could find.

Thanks for any input.

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[Lasherž]

Hey, I posted a bit back about a new amp I got. I had a little trouble with it, and I think it has to do with the speakers I paired with it. I want new speakers anyway, so Im also looking to get recommendations for this. It's a pioneer 4/3/2 Hi Res 1200W amp. Model gm-dx874. I had kicker k5 6x8s (75w rms) on channel A, and a Polk db1040dvc @2ohm (270w rms) on channel B.
I don't understand the manual where it says "subwoofer" and "other than subwoofer"
I will attach screenshot.
The sub is kind of meh and has scratchy sound at mid volume.
The k5s were ok for a bit, then developed a similar crunchy sound.
My gains were set well, but i do keep the volume cranked a lot.
Here's what I think I understand about the manual specs.
For my speakers, I should be looking for something that does 100w rms?
(Polk mm572 5x7s)??
And a sub that's about 300w rms
(Kicker CVR 10 dvc 2ohm {run series to make 4ohm} (wants 350w rms)

Would this be an ideal matchup to get the most out of this amplifier?
Any other recommendations for the speakers? Its hard to find something thats 100w rms, only ones I could find.

Thanks for any input.

That manual is a bit weirdly worded, but the first picture is correct for how you would hook up 2 speakers and 1 subwoofer.

You're correct about the type of speakers and sub you should be looking for (100w @ 4 ohms x2 and a single 300w @ 4 ohms, which is either dvc 2ohm in series or single coil 4 ohm).

The polk audio speakers you mentioned aren't too bad, but it can't be overstated that your door is acting as the enclosure for them (presumably unless they're rear deck speakers), and so deadening the doors will likely give more desired effects than a 25w upgrade will. A good rule of thumb is deadened doors sound better with so-so stock speakers than undeadened doors sound with entry or lower mid-range speakers in them. If you have any rattle at all at high volumes with those kickers I'd focus on the door first for sure because higher wattage/louder speakers are just going to exacerbate that.

I'd say the polk db sub you have is likely superior to the kicker sub you mentioned in build quality, it may just need a different enclosure. Polk dB series is pretty respected as an entry level series. Can you describe the scratchy sound?

Regardless, the kicker sub you mentioned is pretty well matched and will work just fine. I don't think it's ideal, though many setups aren't in the 100 dollar price range. It's not a bad deal either, just make sure you're putting it into an appropriate enclosure which will determine how efficient it is at making noise. 300W isn't super powerful so I'd recommend a ported box near the manufacturer's specifications in the manual.

 

[AJStaples]

That manual is a bit weirdly worded, but the first picture is correct for how you would hook up 2 speakers and 1 subwoofer.

You're correct about the type of speakers and sub you should be looking for (100w @ 4 ohms x2 and a single 300w @ 4 ohms, which is either dvc 2ohm in series or single coil 4 ohm).

The polk audio speakers you mentioned aren't too bad, but it can't be overstated that your door is acting as the enclosure for them (presumably unless they're rear deck speakers), and so deadening the doors will likely give more desired effects than a 25w upgrade will. A good rule of thumb is deadened doors sound better with so-so stock speakers than undeadened doors sound with entry or lower mid-range speakers in them. If you have any rattle at all at high volumes with those kickers I'd focus on the door first for sure because higher wattage/louder speakers are just going to exacerbate that.

I'd say the polk db sub you have is likely superior to the kicker sub you mentioned in build quality, it may just need a different enclosure. Polk dB series is pretty respected as an entry level series. Can you describe the scratchy sound?

Regardless, the kicker sub you mentioned is pretty well matched and will work just fine. I don't think it's ideal, though many setups aren't in the 100 dollar price range. It's not a bad deal either, just make sure you're putting it into an appropriate enclosure which will determine how efficient it is at making noise. 300W isn't super powerful so I'd recommend a ported box near the manufacturer's specifications in the manual.

Well the Polk sounded okay for the first few weeks. Then developed a distortion sound. I can't really describe it. I'm pretty sure it might have been overpowered. Like crinkling paper at times I guess. The price point isn't really a concern somewhat. Just seems 300w subs go for that price I guess. If there's something better for this amp im open to it.
I am going to dynamat the doors when I change the speakers.
It's in a truck, I have limited space and don't really feel like adding a mono amp for the sub which is why I went with this amp.
However, if I were to add that would I need a capacitor and for say a 600w mono or so? I'm not trying to get into a full on build, it's a 15 year old work truck. Lol.