Need advice on resealing blown apart box!

[wontstopthefunk]

Hi all, long time listener first time caller.

Here is what I have going on:

I have 2 Kicker L7's in a ported box. They had started rattling recently, I figured they were just being under powered. I fixed my Kicker 1500.1 on Thanksgiving and threw that in there...got it all tuned up correctly..then I noticed I still had this horrible rattling noise which appeared to be coming from the cone itself or something. Fearing the worst I removed my subs today to check the coils, spiders, wiring, etc...found everything working as it should be and turned it all on while out to confirm..sounded nice and smooth like the subwoofer i fell in love with back in the day. I started looking around the box, then I noticed that the seam on the bottom of the box in the rear behind the subs had blown apart..there was no glue, no silicon, there was nothing left there...luckily the gap isnt all the big, probably about an 1/8"....Im going to assume this is where my rattling noise is coming from.

Now, I spent a good couple hundred on this box not too long ago..It was very hard to get into my car and I would prefer to leave it in as I dont think I will be able to find another box to fit.. I would like to be able to leave it in the car for the repair, whatever that may be..

So, my question is, can I repair this rear seam? All other seams appear to be intact. If I can repair this seam, what is the best way to go about doing this with something that will succesfully hold it?... I have seen alot of talk of titebond, liquid nails, and just general silicon caulk..but I am really not sure what would work best for adhesion and sealing in this case...if the masters of box building and sealing could help point me in the right direction it would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks guys!

Chris

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[hispls 5,000+ posts]

IMO if that one seem is failing, the others are likely to follow. You can try to squirt some Gorilla glue in there. If you can push it into the seem it will expand a bit, fill, and seal. Personally I'd take it out, use wood glue, and add screws or nails to all joints since they are likely to fail for you in the future.

 

[OmegaBunny 10+ year member]

I just got my new box and UPS had dropped it at some point and busted one of the corners and loosened the seal. Dustin said we could do a claim since it was insured but I wanted to try to fix it. I couldn't really get any glue in the seam so I did the best I could, then I clamped the top down, put in 6 new screws, did 2 layers of fiberglass on the inside with a third layer in the main area that was rattling, and threw some resin on the outside. Thing is solid again with no air leaks, and no more rattles. I just need to repaint it but it worked well. Took me 45 minutes or so to fix it. I let it it 2 days before putting the woofer back in to make sure it was setup. I tested it and everything was good but let it sit another 2 days for good measure since it has been very cold here.

 

[Jes 42 10+ year member]

Hi all, long time listener first time caller.
nice opening //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/cool.gif.3bcaf8f141236c00f8044d07150e34f7.gif

 

[cdc351jeferson 10+ year member]

I would screw it and glue it . Don't think i coukd break my box if i threw it off my second story roof lol

 

[pro-rabbit 5,000+ posts]

I just got my new box and UPS had dropped it at some point and busted one of the corners and loosened the seal. Dustin said we could do a claim since it was insured but I wanted to try to fix it. I couldn't really get any glue in the seam so I did the best I could, then I clamped the top down, put in 6 new screws, did 2 layers of fiberglass on the inside with a third layer in the main area that was rattling, and threw some resin on the outside. Thing is solid again with no air leaks, and no more rattles. I just need to repaint it but it worked well. Took me 45 minutes or so to fix it. I let it it 2 days before putting the woofer back in to make sure it was setup. I tested it and everything was good but let it sit another 2 days for good measure since it has been very cold here.

Still say we should have filed that claim. Made them handle another 100+lb bulky/odd package lol. Since we wrote the guide lines for packaging it would be 100% covered. I have to write a report about it any to figure how damage occurred to help correct it. Got to love working with logistic companies lol.

OP, pulling the enclosure out and screwing it back together and using the correct glue will work for a while. However, depending on how much glue you can get in there, it may fail again later on.

 

[OmegaBunny 10+ year member]

LOL I actually like my UPS guys so I wouldn't do that too them. I think it happened prior to being delivered to my door since I told them to be expecting it. They said there was too of them and they would take care of it for me. Its the same guy that delivers all my audio so he knows to be careful with all of it and will call me at work when its delivered.

If it would have been a new person then I would have filed the claim //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

Regardless it fits and works perfectly even though my car still smells like resin in my car lol

 

[wontstopthefunk]

Ok, I can probably try to glue it and screw it...it might be a bit hard because i believe the back is an angled piece where the two pieces of wood join. But i will just throw some in there, im not worried about cosmetics at this point, if it works it works.

Does anyone have an recomendations on what type of glue to use? Like i said, i have heard alot of names thrown out there...gorilla glue, tight bond, construction grade liquid nails... What would be best for me?

Also, what is this about fiberglass? I do not believe there is any fiberglass in it and I would be interested in doing this depending on what the costs and benefits are?

 

[pro-rabbit 5,000+ posts]

LOL I actually like my UPS guys so I wouldn't do that too them. I think it happened prior to being delivered to my door since I told them to be expecting it. They said there was too of them and they would take care of it for me. Its the same guy that delivers all my audio so he knows to be careful with all of it and will call me at work when its delivered.
If it would have been a new person then I would have filed the claim //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

Regardless it fits and works perfectly even though my car still smells like resin in my car lol

LOL, that smell almost never goes away //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/fyi.gif.9f1f679348da7204ce960cfc74bca8e0.gif

I have a pretty good idea when/where/how it happened. I just have to write up the report for them so we can get it checked out. Then we can get a date setup for us to do some testing in their facility and see if we can duplicate the damage.

 

[pro-rabbit 5,000+ posts]

Ok, I can probably try to glue it and screw it...it might be a bit hard because i believe the back is an angled piece where the two pieces of wood join. But i will just throw some in there, im not worried about cosmetics at this point, if it works it works.
Does anyone have an recomendations on what type of glue to use? Like i said, i have heard alot of names thrown out there...gorilla glue, tight bond, construction grade liquid nails... What would be best for me?

Also, what is this about fiberglass? I do not believe there is any fiberglass in it and I would be interested in doing this depending on what the costs and benefits are?

I would use tight bond. Some very good glue, we use it for all of our enclosures.

Is you enclosure custom built or just pre-fab?

 

[OmegaBunny 10+ year member]

I'm going to take a couple fans out the next warm(ish) day and see if I can get the majority of the smell out. As long as its gone by the time the baby gets here in June then It'll be okay lol.

OP, a fiberglass kit is pretty inexpensive usually around $20 at a auto parts store and should be plenty to re-enforce and seal the busted side. The hardest part would be pulling it together and putting some screws in it without splitting the wood.

 

[wontstopthefunk]

Ok, so, tight bond it is. Is there any particular type i should use and/or try to avoid?

Im not sure what you mean by pre-fab... But I do not believe it was custom built.. I think it is a Qlogic box if I remember reading the sticker correctly . I think the only custom thing about it was I had them cut the opening to fit the square subwoofer. I bought it at a car audio shop.

 

[OmegaBunny 10+ year member]

I usually use Titebond II.

 

[quackhead 10+ year member]

Hi all, long time listener first time caller.
Here is what I have going on:

I have 2 Kicker L7's in a ported box. They had started rattling recently, I figured they were just being under powered. I fixed my Kicker 1500.1 on Thanksgiving and threw that in there...got it all tuned up correctly..then I noticed I still had this horrible rattling noise which appeared to be coming from the cone itself or something. Fearing the worst I removed my subs today to check the coils, spiders, wiring, etc...found everything working as it should be and turned it all on while out to confirm..sounded nice and smooth like the subwoofer i fell in love with back in the day. I started looking around the box, then I noticed that the seam on the bottom of the box in the rear behind the subs had blown apart..there was no glue, no silicon, there was nothing left there...luckily the gap isnt all the big, probably about an 1/8"....Im going to assume this is where my rattling noise is coming from.

Now, I spent a good couple hundred on this box not too long ago..It was very hard to get into my car and I would prefer to leave it in as I dont think I will be able to find another box to fit.. I would like to be able to leave it in the car for the repair, whatever that may be..

So, my question is, can I repair this rear seam? All other seams appear to be intact. If I can repair this seam, what is the best way to go about doing this with something that will succesfully hold it?... I have seen alot of talk of titebond, liquid nails, and just general silicon caulk..but I am really not sure what would work best for adhesion and sealing in this case...if the masters of box building and sealing could help point me in the right direction it would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks guys!

Chris

Son, that is like a ******* grand canyon gap in the world of sub boxes..and no evidence of glue or sealant??...I really am curious who built this box for you, if it costs that much for it. You really should visually inspect every inch of every seam in there and maybe try glue and caulk as needed....it MIGHT work

 

[husker77 10+ year member]

I would use tight bond. Some very good glue, we use it for all of our enclosures.

tight bond, huh never made the connection.