Need advice on my audio system setup, not getting much power from my sub

I agree with CRX. Everything seems perfectly matched so best step is a ported box.View attachment 25940
The #3 slot style with port in rear coming out the side instead of front ... so port can load about 8"s off the side ...would be perfect ....Sub would need to be mounted as close to edge as possible not center of enclosure over top of the port opening ....giving sound wave longest path of travel ..
 
If you are building a ported box mount sub facing up and port firing to the side and set the box either angling the port into a rear corner or all the way back to the lift gate. I have done extensive testing in that style Jeep and that orientation works best. Close second is sub and port both firing up, also box all the way to the back.

One of my Jeeps liked to peak at 54hz and my current one always peaks around 43hz. 54hz is more likely though, I still haven't got a good theory as to why my current one peaks so low.
 
If you are building a ported box mount sub facing up and port firing to the side and set the box either angling the port into a rear corner or all the way back to the lift gate. I have done extensive testing in that style Jeep and that orientation works best. Close second is sub and port both firing up, also box all the way to the back.

One of my Jeeps liked to peak at 54hz and my current one always peaks around 43hz. 54hz is more likely though, I still haven't got a good theory as to why my current one peaks so low.

I didn't know that! We had an 89 Cherokee that made a lot of boxes for, not for testing but showing off.

Port back subs up always worked well for us in it. We never tried port to the side.

OP if you need a box design, or want one, I can do one for you. We can try out hispls advice as well and maybe side fire.

@hispls, that is a great idea to side fire a port with the box all the way against the hatch. I've done a ton of side firing in trucks and trunks, but not quite as much in a SUV.

All downfiring also works well if you're space limited on where you can put the box.
 
I didn't know that! We had an 89 Cherokee that made a lot of boxes for, not for testing but showing off.

Port back subs up always worked well for us in it. We never tried port to the side.

OP if you need a box design, or want one, I can do one for you. We can try out hispls advice as well and maybe side fire.

@hispls, that is a great idea to side fire a port with the box all the way against the hatch. I've done a ton of side firing in trucks and trunks, but not quite as much in a SUV.

All downfiring also works well if you're space limited on where you can put the box.
I'm talking very specifically about 95-99 Grand Cherokee. You will need to do your own testing/metering to determine best tune and orientation for other styles, but since OP has the exact same body style as my previous and current Jeep I figured I'd save him some work in testing everything. In fact I will also say that when I burped rotating the box some to angle the port directly into the driver's side corner metered best when I did single sub box. If you're chasing 10ths you'll need to just keep trying different angles and distances from the corner to see what's optimum. Best to use masking tape on the floor to mark where the corner will set and you can pencil in your numbers on the tape to analyze data and/or repeat positions/tests to double check your results.

All my attempts to port back/central were weak performers though not as bad as subs/port forward. Don't aim anything forward in these Jeeps, though I've been told by reliable sources that it works in some vehicles.

I have not downfired subs in ages but as far as playing music it always worked well for me. I doubt it would be best on the meter but only testing could confirm.
 
I'm talking very specifically about 95-99 Grand Cherokee. You will need to do your own testing/metering to determine best tune and orientation for other styles, but since OP has the exact same body style as my previous and current Jeep I figured I'd save him some work in testing everything. In fact I will also say that when I burped rotating the box some to angle the port directly into the driver's side corner metered best when I did single sub box. If you're chasing 10ths you'll need to just keep trying different angles and distances from the corner to see what's optimum. Best to use masking tape on the floor to mark where the corner will set and you can pencil in your numbers on the tape to analyze data and/or repeat positions/tests to double check your results.

All my attempts to port back/central were weak performers though not as bad as subs/port forward. Don't aim anything forward in these Jeeps, though I've been told by reliable sources that it works in some vehicles.

I have not downfired subs in ages but as far as playing music it always worked well for me. I doubt it would be best on the meter but only testing could confirm.

Yeah I see what you mean more now. Downfiring is good for music when you can't use your whole cargo area space for sub and port orientation, in my experience.
 
Buck asked a good question and I didn't see a response for it.
What head unit are you running and what is the RCA voltage on it.
Most amps a run the best when you put at least 4 volts into them.
Most aftermarket head units are only putting out 2 volts.
If its a LOC your lucky if you get 1 volt.
IMO this the most overlooked area of car audio especially now that most cars are unable to have aftermarket HU put in them.
Its a simple fix if its the problem, just add a line driver.
You can get a decent one for $50-100.
Or if you have the money add a processor.
 
Buck asked a good question and I didn't see a response for it.
What head unit are you running and what is the RCA voltage on it.
Most amps a run the best when you put at least 4 volts into them.
Most aftermarket head units are only putting out 2 volts.
If its a LOC your lucky if you get 1 volt.
IMO this the most overlooked area of car audio especially now that most cars are unable to have aftermarket HU put in them.
Its a simple fix if its the problem, just add a line driver.
You can get a decent one for $50-100.
Or if you have the money add a processor.

I run the Wavetech linkQ, it's $120. Extremely small, so far during my testing it performs very well. It is an LOC, a line driver up to 10V, and a bass processor. It also comes with a bass knob for that price. If you are just tapping a factory HU and adding a sub, I've found this a very efficient and affordable product. Just make sure the sub amp has a low pass because this unit does not.
 
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