Midrange or Midbass? Or, Both?

Have you gotten any kind of deadner or bracing for the roof cavity done?Looks like a 2 seater ride mainly to me.My Honest opinion..One good 6.5 mid bass and a 3.5-5.25 midrange and one good 1" tweet should be plenty to keep up with a single 12 -15" sub on 2k.rms
 
Have you gotten any kind of deadner or bracing for the roof cavity done?Looks like a 2 seater ride mainly to me.My Honest opinion..One good 6.5 mid bass and a 3.5-5.25 midrange and one good 1" tweet should be plenty to keep up with a single 12 -15" sub on 2k.rms

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Have you gotten any kind of deadner or bracing for the roof cavity done?Looks like a 2 seater ride mainly to me.My Honest opinion..One good 6.5 mid bass and a 3.5-5.25 midrange and one good 1" tweet should be plenty to keep up with a single 12 -15" sub on 2k.rms
As you can see, I removed my back seat in my VW Bug. I have 4-6.5" Pioneer Pro mids
4-3.5" tweets and 1-15" American Bass HD15D2. The bass amp is a Taramps MD3001
The mid/highs amp is a Taramps DS800X4
All going through a Dayton DSP-408
 
Have you gotten any kind of deadner or bracing for the roof cavity done?Looks like a 2 seater ride mainly to me.My Honest opinion..One good 6.5 mid bass and a 3.5-5.25 midrange and one good 1" tweet should be plenty to keep up with a single 12 -15" sub on 2k.rms

As you can see, I removed my back seat in my VW Bug. I have 4-6.5" Pioneer Pro mids
4-3.5" Pioneer Pro tweets and 1-15" American Bass HD15D2. The bass amp is a Taramps MD3001
The mid/highs amp is a Taramps DS800X4
All going through a Dayton DSP-408
 
So, with 4 3.5" tweets and 4 6.5" mids that play that high, should I replace two midrange with two midbass, replace two tweets with midbass, or leave it alone?
whats your real goals with this? SPL? SQ? Of a half assed combination of both with a lot of bass aka a daily ground pounder?

I'm gonna tell you right now you have waaaay too much tweeter in your setup compared to midrange and midbass on an SQ perspective. However thats gonna get really loud. However even with a dsp, you can only clean up supertweets so much, its still going to not be anywhere as smooth as a silk dome or as clear, detailed and resolving as a beryllium tweet but you'll be absolutely loud as balls.

Also you dont want mids to play up into the tweeter range, thats going to cause beaming issues(different parts of the cone move in opposite direction and cause phase shifts ) that affect sound quality very negatively. As in your upper midrange to lower treble area will sound like absolute sh*t, harsh peaky, fatiguing, "get me the **** outta this vehicle" kinda sound and smear all the details in your music. You want to start with a 4000khz or lower low pass filter for your mids Try a 5000hz, to 10,000 crossover with the tweets and play with the slopes, dont use the included capacitor.
 
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it really depends on what kind of sound signature you want too, as of now you'll have an extremely bright sound signature with anemic midbass thuds but if your sub stage is decently loud like 145 db and above, midbass wont even matter too much. However if you listen to a large range of music especially with rock as well and you really need warm detailed instruments and male vocals, you definitely want to have strong midbass.

but question, where are the tweeters and speakers going to be placed? on the doors or in the back of you?
 
it really depends on what kind of sound signature you want too, as of now you'll have an extremely bright sound signature with anemic midbass thuds but if your sub stage is decently loud like 145 db and above, midbass wont even matter too much. However if you listen to a large range of music especially with rock as well and you really need warm detailed instruments and male vocals, you definitely want to have strong midbass.

but question, where are the tweeters and speakers going to be placed? on the doors or in the back of you?

I was going to put a mid and tweet in each door. I was also going to put a mid and tweet on the left and right side of the rear deck. So, now I'm thinking about dumping two of the tweets and adding two midbass on the rear deck. Good, bad, or, I'm screwed! I want loud, but not loud ****! If that's even possible.
 
Well.. my truck was t-boned and totalled yesterday but I threw in 4 of the exodus anarchy 6.5/7's in a few months ago and finally got the midbass I was after (has to keep up with a 155db sub stage) and they're great but you cannot expect them to play above 1khz smoothly.

You need to get dedicated midbass and dedicated midrange. The midbass will need a good amount of power, but not more than 200w or so because it's just too much.. for the anarchys anyways. The absolute best option is to get an 8 or 10 inch mid, but it's very difficult to fit them.
 
you dont want to have any rear speakers at all. Drags the sound stage back and you can localize the midbass very easy, destroys what makes music "music."

You can think about doing midbass on each door and using a 3.5 inch or 4 inch midrange with the tweet like most typical SQ setups. When your midrange is smaller you can actually play up a lot higher without incurring beaming issues and you can have a higher crossover point for the mid and tweeter. The DSP will have bandpass capability to cut off midbass frequencies from the smaller midrange which allows your setup to play louder than you expect and handle more. However you would need another 2 channel amp.
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you dont want to have any rear speakers at all. Drags the sound stage back and you can localize the midbass very easy, destroys what makes music "music."

You can think about doing midbass on each door and using a 3.5 inch or 4 inch midrange with the tweet like most typical SQ setups. When your midrange is smaller you can actually play up a lot higher without incurring beaming issues and you can have a higher crossover point for the mid and tweeter. The DSP will have bandpass capability to cut off midbass frequencies from the smaller midrange which allows your setup to play louder than you expect and handle more. However you would need another 2 channel amp.
View attachment 18927

I was thinking about two of these.
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poor choice, weak midbass extension, no different from your pioneer. It says midbass on the name but its not really a real midbass driver its the same PA midrange design and performance.

Is this better, or, the same? Any suggestions? I think it gets down to 36, on paper anyway.
Screenshot_20191109-125129_Samsung Internet.jpg
 
Yes. I’m thinking of using Dayton drivers as my midbass as well. I’ve used them in home speaker systems, but never in the car. You won’t need them to dip down to 36 hz anyway, since you will have them on a crossover.
 
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