LOW bass amps.

[Windy Lows]

that or something that repairs and recreates the whole full sound spectrum like a jl fix 82/86. Audiocontrol's accubass is marketing bullcrap, its a just a bass boost that amplifies the weak dirty signal that was there. Personally fixed too many installs where all the audiocontrol products were pretty much useless. However there are some people that just settle for the mediocre results they get with the audio control unit.

Another solution is to bypass the head unit completely and not use it for audio, leave it stock and just play music bluetooth straight to a dayton audio dsp and bluetooth dongle. Your head unit can be stock and all your audio features are controlled via bluetooth on your phone. This would be 180$ and the absolute cheapest way to keep the stock look and give you 8 amplification channels and a very clean high quality signal and Amazing ridiculous sound quality controls.

You can use like your rear speakers for audio connected to the stock head unit still if you need to take a call or gps navication or something. What you'll want to focus on is the front stage and the sub stage.

The Dayton audio thing sounds interesting. How exactly does it work? Where would I plug the USB in to? Sorry I'm noob lol

 

[Windy Lows]

I kinda outlined in a rant post earlier about stock head units, so go back and read. Its exactly whats going on now. But just see if the lc2i does anything buuut its not looking good based on results of the test.

Yeah.... lc2i was in fact worse for the low bass. I guess I'm going to have to save and get a new HU. Or try that dayton dsp

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

The Dayton audio thing sounds interesting. How exactly does it work? Where would I plug the USB in to? Sorry I'm noob lol

so the dayton has power, ground, remote, you can install it anywhere. On the dayton, there's a USB plug, you plug the dongle into it, viola it becomes a bluetooth head unit basically., you can stream music directly onto it and it'll output music to all your amps. There's a smartphone app (download and play around with it, just search dayton dsp on the playstore/apple store). Its APTX so the signal quality can support lossless files, the quality of the signal is full range and extremely strong and clean compared to most head units. The audio tuning capabilities is better than any head unit on the market except for a 1000 $ pioneer audiophile unit. It'll cost you 150 for the dsp and 30 for the dongle.

you can actually also wire it up like an LOC if you wish as well and choose between speaker level signal from your head unit or direct bluetooth stream to the dsp. The unit has signal summing which combines the signal from your front and rear speakers to hopefully get something full buuuuut I doubt it lol. Its just an option though, the dsp is extremely flexible. You can even use it for home audio as well.

 

[Windy Lows]

so the dayton has power, ground, remote, you can install it anywhere. On the dayton, there's a USB plug, you plug the dongle into it, viola it becomes a bluetooth head unit basically., you can stream music directly onto it and it'll output music to all your amps. There's a smartphone app (download and play around with it, just search dayton dsp on the playstore/apple store). Its APTX so the signal quality can support lossless files, the quality of the signal is full range and extremely strong and clean compared to most head units. The audio tuning capabilities is better than any head unit on the market except for a 1000 $ pioneer audiophile unit. It'll cost you 150 for the dsp and 30 for the dongle.

you can actually also wire it up like an LOC if you wish as well and choose between speaker level signal from your head unit or direct bluetooth stream to the dsp. The unit has signal summing which combines the signal from your front and rear speakers to hopefully get something full buuuuut I doubt it lol. Its just an option though, the dsp is extremely flexible. You can even use it for home audio as well.

How would I get the rest of the speakers to play if all I have plugged in would be the rca from the sub amp? And the power looked like one of those round 12v charger holes

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

How would I get the rest of the speakers to play if all I have plugged in would be the rca from the sub amp? And the power looked like one of those round 12v charger holes

it would require your whole setup to be amplified, even the door speakers.

 

[Windy Lows]

it would require your whole setup to be amplified, even the door speakers.

So if I hook up all speakers would i still get the same results as before with the LOC?

 

[Windy Lows]

I see input 1-4. What do the 4 pins that say n/p do? And also where would I hook the tweeters up? My car has 4 door speakers and tweeters on the dash.

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

So if I hook up all speakers would i still get the same results as before with the LOC?

If you have speakers on the stock head unit power, you wont have any sound if you are streaming to the Bluetooth dongle meaning no signal is going to your head unit thus nothing to the speakers. Only thing that gets signal is the amps connected to the DSP.

If you use speaker level connections you are still subjected to the garbage stock head unit signal thats cut off and not full just like the audio control lc2i i would not recommend going this path.

You'll be using a dayton amp and a cheap(but great deal and quality) 4 channel amp (pioneer gm 8704) for power for the door speakers so everything is amplified and everything gets signal when you stream straight to the DSP

 

[Windy Lows]

If you have speakers on the stock head unit power, you wont have any sound if you are streaming to the Bluetooth dongle meaning no signal is going to your head unit thus nothing to the speakers. Only thing that gets signal is the amps connected to the DSP.

If you use speaker level connections you are still subjected to the garbage stock head unit signal thats cut off and not full just like the audio control lc2i i would not recommend going this path.

You'll be using a dayton amp and a cheap(but great deal and quality) 4 channel amp (pioneer gm 8704) for power for the door speakers so everything is amplified and everything gets signal when you stream straight to the DSP

I think I'm going to get a pioneer HU with maestro rr so I can retain factory features. Much easier this way. Thanks for all your help and advice. I probably should've got an aftermarket HU to begin with. Should be step 1 on any system lol.

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

I think I'm going to get a pioneer HU with maestro rr so I can retain factory features. Much easier this way. Thanks for all your help and advice. I probably should've got an aftermarket HU to begin with. Should be step 1 on any system lol.

glad you see the light hahaha, see.... If i make it confusing enough you'll make the right choice and go with the head unit lmfao

 

[Windy Lows]

glad you see the light hahaha, see.... If i make it confusing enough you'll make the right choice and go with the head unit lmfao

-update-
I installed a pioneer double din HU and it sounds 100 times better. Still using the same MD1800.1 and all the low bass is there and then some. Thanks again for the help and advice.

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

-update-
I installed a pioneer double din HU and it sounds 100 times better. Still using the same MD1800.1 and all the low bass is there and then some. Thanks again for the help and advice.

yeah people severely underestimate the power of a proper subwoofer RCA output from a quality dac, makes all the difference.