Looking for a 12" that takes 500w RMS

That tiny little box, downfiring no less is gonna limit output especally on a 500W amp. You can even put on a hard top and it'll probably just keep underwhelming you. Even adding power too probably wont be enough imo.

Trying to save space on lower powered bass almost never works out well.

If you end up redoing it even a small ported will make better use of your power. Personally I'm not a sealed box fan and small sealed is even worse. Add no cabin to gain & its gotta be maddening to have spent what you did on the sub and have it perform how it is currently.

If you do decde to rebuild the box how much space is going to be too much?

I ask because I've done Demon 12 boxes as small as 13t x21w x 16.5"d. Even a small ported will be a big improvement on your power I think.
 
That tiny little box, downfiring no less is gonna limit output especally on a 500W amp. You can even put on a hard top and it'll probably just keep underwhelming you. Even adding power too probably wont be enough imo.

Trying to save space on lower powered bass almost never works out well.

If you end up redoing it even a small ported will make better use of your power. Personally I'm not a sealed box fan and small sealed is even worse. Add no cabin to gain & its gotta be maddening to have spent what you did on the sub and have it perform how it is currently.

If you do decde to rebuild the box how much space is going to be too much?

I ask because I've done Demon 12 boxes as small as 13t x21w x 16.5"d. Even a small ported will be a big improvement on your power I think.

SSA's site says 0.85 - 1.1 ft^3 and I'm in at 1.1, and I tried it in the back seat facing the front seat. I've made the box with the biggest allowable foot print, if I went bigger for ported, I would have to build up vertically, which I guess is doable. I would need to protect the sub, and definitely not have the port on the top face of the box due to the possibility of it collecting rain water.
 
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I'm in at 1.1
Well if thats what you got its probably not getting much ACTUAL power with a 500w amp. Which amp are you using?
I've oversized sealed boxes for results before on lower power too. I still think that with your current power a ported enclosure is a no brainer.
 
Well if thats what you got its probably not getting much ACTUAL power with a 500w amp. Which amp are you using?
I've oversized sealed boxes for results before on lower power too. I still think that with your current power a ported enclosure is a no brainer.

NVX VADM1

BigD's Youtube channel tested it on the dyno and got:

467w certified @ 14.16v
503w up to clipping @ 13.8v
636w burst @ 13.97v

When I take out the sub, I'm going to double check the wiring. It was kinda difficult to get two runs of 12ga wiring into the sub terminals when I was wiring it in parallel. If that looks ok, I guess I'm going to have to look at going ported as mentioned. I wonder if I would get good results keeping the sub down firing (I like having the sub protected) and having the port on the vertical side facing the cargo area.
 
NVX VADM1

BigD's Youtube channel tested it on the dyno and got:

467w certified @ 14.16v
503w up to clipping @ 13.8v
636w burst @ 13.97v

When I take out the sub, I'm going to double check the wiring. It was kinda difficult to get two runs of 12ga wiring into the sub terminals when I was wiring it in parallel. If that looks ok, I guess I'm going to have to look at going ported as mentioned. I wonder if I would get good results keeping the sub down firing (I like having the sub protected) and having the port on the vertical side facing the cargo area.
Wonder if one of your 12 gauge wires came out of the terminal when you installed the sub into the box 🤔. Therefore, only one coil is getting power.
 
Wonder if one of your 12 gauge wires came out of the terminal when you installed the sub into the box 🤔. Therefore, only one coil is getting power.

I don't think so, but I'll double check. Glad I went with the threaded inserts.

I have some 14ga around here somewhere. It's not enough to do the whole run, but if there is a connection issue inside the box, maybe I can redo everything in the box with 14ga.
 
NVX VADM1

BigD's Youtube channel tested it on the dyno and got:

467w certified @ 14.16v
503w up to clipping @ 13.8v
636w burst @ 13.97v

When I take out the sub, I'm going to double check the wiring. It was kinda difficult to get two runs of 12ga wiring into the sub terminals when I was wiring it in parallel. If that looks ok, I guess I'm going to have to look at going ported as mentioned. I wonder if I would get good results keeping the sub down firing (I like having the sub protected) and having the port on the vertical side facing the cargo area.

Yeah... no.

People see those dyno vids and don't realize you'll NEVER see 1 ohm power wired 1 ohm.

Its probably getting 2 ohm power at best.

As someone else on here keeps saying "rise s a *****" and asually 1.5X-2X power is needed to keep the signal clean and power a sub right.
 
It takes power to make power too. Ported will serve a little more justice. (You want Bass... Give up the Space.) Plain and simple. Build a well tuned enclosure also. Ive never liked a down firing sub in a vehicle either. Those are most suitable for Home Theater reflecting off a wood or concrete floor. My experiences is all
 
Don't need to put two 12 awg into the spring terminal. You can twist wire 2 around half of wire 1, tape it then insert the rest of wire 1 into the spring terminal.
 
Thiis is pretty small after all...
X6RnWN.jpg

It does great on a 1K amp @ 1ohm too. Rise sux and that sub is underrated.
It may not be tuned to play chopped and slowed crap but it does great on music.
 
Thiis is pretty small after all...
X6RnWN.jpg

It does great on a 1K amp @ 1ohm too. Rise sux and that sub is underrated.
It may not be tuned to play chopped and slowed crap but it does great on music.

Im assuming since those are areo ports, I can tweak the overall dimensions to fit my space, as long as I keep the overall volume of the box the same?
 
Those are dual 3" Precision ports 18" long hence the 14in2 of port.
This was as long realistically as I dared in that configuration.
Change the dimensions much and you'll end up with bends in the port, shortening them and raising tuning... Or a combination. Etc. And the depth put it right at min volume too.
It was a real bear to do in 13" h let me say 1st off because of the flare size.
I used the dual 3 for the added port area as a 4" is around 12in2 so it matches better on a larger amp like the 1k it was designed for.
Its awfully small. Only a 4" port would make it smaller but have less output potential
 
Those are dual 3" Precision ports 18" long hence the 14in2 of port.
This was as long realistically as I dared in that configuration.
Change the dimensions much and you'll end up with bends in the port, shortening them and raising tuning... Or a combination. Etc. And the depth put it right at min volume too.
It was a real bear to do in 13" h let me say 1st off because of the flare size.
I used the dual 3 for the added port area as a 4" is around 12in2 so it matches better on a larger amp like the 1k it was designed for.
Its awfully small. Only a 4" port would make it smaller but have less output potential
Reason I asked port size is because I got me a sundown sld12. I plan to build a box that is 1.5 cubes and use a 4” precision port that will be 15.5” long to make a tune of 35hz. I already ordered the port. Should I have gone with two 3” ports? Amp will be 1200 watts. Also, I plan to have the port external firing to the side behind drivers seat. (Single cab truck).
 
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