Is Class A/B==Mosfet?

sumone
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I'm looking for a 2 channel amp that is a class D amp - for that efficiency factor advantage over A/B amps. However, when reading through stuff, and I see Mosfet power supply, does that mean it's a class A/B amp?

Oh yeah, any recommendations on a 2 channel amp that does about 300Watts bridged (other than the profile CL400)?

 
Why a class D two channel amp? Class D's are only good at producing low frequencies, other frequencies tend to get to much noise added to the signal, so Class D's are marketed as subwoofer amps. Most Class D's will have outputs for two subs. If you want something similar as Class D but for main speakers you're looking at Class T for higher efficiency ratings than Calss A/B.

 
Oh btw MOSFET =Metal Oxide Semiconductor Field Effect Transistor. These have been available since the 70's and are used in a number of electronic devices. Companies just thinks it really sounds cool to say MOSFET, since almost nobody knows what the hell it means. It has its advantages over regular transistors (there are many different types) but I bet you ask any normal sales person what is so neat about MOSFET and they won't be able to tell you even though they make a big deal out of it in marketing the product.

 
Why a class D two channel amp? Class D's are only good at producing low frequencies, other frequencies tend to get to much noise added to the signal, so Class D's are marketed as subwoofer amps. Most Class D's will have outputs for two subs. If you want something similar as Class D but for main speakers you're looking at Class T for higher efficiency ratings than Calss A/B.
Class D amps are not linear amps. They do not reproduce the signal exactly as it is input. They use a high frequency pulsed output to approximate the input signal. The output is then passed through a low pass filter (inductor) to remove the high frequency noise. There are full range Class D amps out there, but there hasn't been a stereo one available since Blade made them in the mid 90's that I know of anyway. Class T (or X depending on the manufacturer) uses much the same priciple with a higher and variable switching frequency. It is more efficient than a Class A/B but not as efficient as a D. If you want it to run subs, then just get a mono amp. If you want a fullrange amp then don't worry about efficiency and stick with A/B, your mids and highs don't **** up a lot of current anyway. At that power level the benefits of a Class D amp are pretty close to a wash for subs even. Any amp that will give you the power that you want will be fine and the difference in current draw will be very small during normal listening.

As for a 300W bridged amp, the US Acoustics 2100 comes to mind.

 
Ok, I guess A/B would be better (for me). Cause what I was thinking about doing was getting 2 channel amp that I would bridge and use for my sub. But then I rethought about it and it would be more useful if I could run some components off of it.

I'm still contemplating what I wanna do though..

Currently have a usx4065 - 65x4 @ 4ohm, 160x2 @ 4ohm bridged. Running speakers off 2 channels, and the sub off the other two.

But...I'd like more bass. As far as how the speakers go, I'm pretty happy with the 65 watts but sometimes I feel like I need more (mainly on old hits & dusties music which really don't have the same quality-factor as most of today's modern music).

So my options:

#1

- grab a 2 channel amp, run speakers off em

- grab another e12kx and then use all the usx4065 channels - 320watts

#2

- use speakers off all of the usx4065 channels

- grab a 2 channel amp, run the sub off it

I'm leaning towards #1, but it'd be more expensive (and also I'd have to buy another box...)

 
Here's an idea. Get an amp to run the sub. Around 3-400 watts should more than satisfy you and a mono amp will be just what you need. Bridge your 4065 so channels 1&2 are bridged to run one side of your components and channels 3&4 are bridged to run the other. Turn the gains down pretty low to limit the max power going to your comps and call it good. If you need more later, get a mono amp to begin with that puts out more power into a lower impedance and then just add another sub if you still want more. Something like the JBL BP-600.1 might be perfect. Or if you want to match your other amp, the US Acoustics USB600D has a good bit less power but is about $30 cheaper. I'd spend the extra on the JBL myself.

 
^ good idea, I'll try that!

amp can do 160watts bridged, the hd-62efs can take 120watts.

one other q: for rear fill, should I just run stuff off the HU? I just don't want that distortion and stuff you get from the HU, even if it is attenuated.

 
300 watts!!! that's gotta be crazy loud!!!

65 watts is too loud on most songs I got! I figure throwing my cl-61s and hd-62efs 160 watts will throw away that not-enough-midbass that people say with

 
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