Is 2500 watts too much for a x12? (critique my setup idea)


sangean

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Jun 25, 2012
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Hey everyone, I am putting 4 sundown x12's DVC 4 ohms in my lincoln town car. I was going with 2 sia-3500's, but I decided to buy a lithium battery that can support more power, so I was thinking, why not get 2 sundown 5k amps instead, since there's not much difference in price.

I'm getting a 370 amp alternator and a lithium hp-40. the chart says it can take a 9600 watt amp with a 350 alternator, so why not get stronger amps if i am spending more on a battery?



But anyway, my question is will I nuke my x12's with 2500 watts rms each? There's a guy on youtube who ran 4 u12's on a taramps 10k no problem.
 

Popwarhomie

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Nah. Go with two 8ks or a single 13500. Impedance rise is a bitch.
 

sangean

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There will be one amp per 2 subs, so 2 x12's will be wired to one ohm on each amp. Is that not the lowest impedance possible?
 

Popwarhomie

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You already have 4 D4s? If so the 2 8ks since you can't run the full bridge amps under 1.

If you have not bought the subwoofers yet I would get D2s and run all 4 at 1 ohm on a 13500. Then you don't have to mess with gain matching and more wiring.
 

sangean

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Oh i see what you're saying. The problem is I already own 2 x12's 4 ohms from a previous build- it does make setting things up tougher, and I never thought I would put 4 subs in a box.

Can you tell me more about configuring 2 mono amps? I was just gonna set the gains with a multimeter, but I don't know much more about it

I looked at that 13,500 amp btw. That amp is sick and not too expensive for what if offers
 

sangean

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Is this wiring as simple as it looks? You can connect the power through 1 amp then pass it to another from the outputs? Man I wish I could sell the 4 ohms I got, but I keep getting lowballers
27819
 

Popwarhomie

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No it has dual inputs. Amp needs two powers and two grounds. Only the remote wire has an output.

Those town cars have sealed off trunks don't they? Best bet would be put the two 12s in a 4th order blow through.

This is in a crown vic with two 15s. Port through the rear deck.

crown vic.jpg
 

sangean

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Dang I wish I had posted here before I started. I got all sorts of advice elsewhere that wasn’t the best. Here’s the box I built already
22D46168-F64E-450B-BFC2-433EC5ADC2FE.jpeg

I know I’m gonna get good SPL with 4 12’s. I’m still debating if I want to tear out the back seat.

How does one connect 2 sets of positive and negative cables? Does it matter if it’s a splitter or do they have to be connected directly to the trunk battery
 

hispls

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the chart says it can take a 9600 watt amp with a 350 alternator,
Good luck with that. The specs they publish for that look extremely dishonest, and trying to run 10,000W off a 40AH LiFePO with 2C rating before losing performance and cycle life seems a terrible idea.
Also be aware that Jacob rates those subs at like 1500W for a reason and if it isn't Sundown or the authorized dealer who sold you the subs telling you to run double that power to them you're not going to get warranty service if you blow them up.
 
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Popwarhomie

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Where is the port?

It would be the same as connecting an amp with single inputs. Just doubled. Two powers and two grounds from the rear battery.
 

shredder2

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Dang I wish I had posted here before I started. I got all sorts of advice elsewhere that wasn’t the best. Here’s the box I built already View attachment 27821
I know I’m gonna get good SPL with 4 12’s. I’m still debating if I want to tear out the back seat.

How does one connect 2 sets of positive and negative cables? Does it matter if it’s a splitter or do they have to be connected directly to the trunk battery
Please tell me thats not a sealed box for X12's
 

sangean

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Goddang y’all are hella knowledgeable. I’m having trouble responding to each quote individually from my phone, but that was what I needed- I’m not gonna double the power. A dealer recommended the new sia-3500 for 2 of them, so it’s only overpowered by 250 rms each

What’s your opinion on the lithium? The guy on Facebook who runs the company seems cool- the reseller seems like a tool.

What battery specs actually matter? It’s been tough sifting through the different specs

I was initially looking at getting a north star 480, but it seems people are now recommending lithium. The guy who had the 10k amp had 2 North Star 220’s agm

Hahaha and hell no, not a sealed box. The cutout under the drill on the right is where I am gonna bust a hole for the port. I wanted a 12” tube but it’ll be tight so I’m going with a 10”

i plan to put a couple 1” dowels for bracing
 

Popwarhomie

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Wouldn't be over powered though. I run a full bridge 3k on my single X15. No where near too much power after impedance rise and voltage drop. IIRC I clamped around 1130ish rms.

I don't think a single 10" aero port is going to be enough port area or get your tuning low enough with the length you have to work with.

As far as battery I would do a CES 40ah LTO if you want a prebuilt battery.
 
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sangean

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Which amp you got?

thanks for the battery recommendation- def more reasonable prices than the one I was looking at
 

audiobaun

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What are the dimensions of the enclosure? What are you going to be tuned to?
 

sangean

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Gonna order that battery today. It takes 20 days to make but it looks like a good choice

Box is 39”wide by 21” high by 25” deep. Double baffle.

Volume is 8.76 ft^3 after speaker displacement. I’m going with a 10” quik tube port 30 hz
 

hispls

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What battery specs actually matter?
Reserve (measured in amp hours AH) and C rating (which is a multiple of amp hours).

The specs those JY clowns post have the caveat right next to their ratings of "at 2C" or "at 1C" which means they're mix-matching maximum safe numbers with optimum and intended numbers depending on which makes their marketing hype look best. I could not get honest answers from any of those snake oil salesmen when I was battery shopping so I just bought my own cells from China and went the DIY route.

Anyway if you're planning a 300A alternator it will be trying to charge your batteries with 300A (probably not real world but safe to assume it may). Let's say you pick a 30AH battery with 10C charge rating that means the maximum current you can safely charge with is 10(the C rating) X 30 (the amp hour rating) or 300A. There is a big difference between the absolute maximum you can do before rapid or catastrophic failure and normal intended continuous use that will not dramatically shorten the life expectency of your battery and lead to poor performance.

Same story with discharge rating. Let's say your 10,000W rated amps will attempt to draw 1000A of current, even 100AH of 10C rated cells are working at their straight out max limit (though since AH ratings are at 1C you're not even doing that well) and both voltage and current capacity will drop extremely quickly under load.

In short, if you're coming out the gate trying to pinch pennies on a battery bank you're setting yourself up for failure from the start. If you can't afford a big battery bank you can't afford a 10,000W audio system period full stop.

From there Lincoln Town Car is one of the absolute worst vehicles to try to get sound up out of the trunk in. I did a 1980 towncar many many years ago and the build was costly and very labor intensive and it still wasn't anything special for how much stuff I had into it. I really love Lincolns but I would not consider an audio build in a car like this short of deleting the back seats and doing a B-pillar wall.

It seems like you are in way over your head here, trying to cram 10 pounds of shit into a 5 pound bag using a plastic spork. I would encourage you to go back to the drawing board on this whole project, otherwise what I foresee happening is you spending a lot of money on equipment but not enough to really do it right and winding up with something that is only good for creating the amount of trunk rattling that you could have bought from Best Buy for under a grand.
 

sangean

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Thanks for clarifying all the ratings dude- The battery issue is the area where I am in over my head- I am gonna spend today learning about it. I'm not set on 10k- I'm ok with 7k rated watts.

If the alternator charges the battery faster than it's C rating, it will mess up the battery or shorten it's lifespan? I thought alternators were regulated for that. Or the battery wouldn't be able to take advantage of the alternators output.

Would you recommend adding an isolator for the lithium battery?

I hear you on the sound issue- The town car's seats don't fold down either, so I would have to remove the backseat (upright parts) to get more airflow. Check out this dude's system: He busted down the backseat. I hear you on the rattles- gonna turn it down when serving the trap.

 

Popwarhomie

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Don't have to remove the seats. Just cut the rear deck.

vic port 2.jpg


vic port 3.jpg




 

Kickstand

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Jan 1, 2021
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I would go back to the board with your box. Maybe its me but that box doesn't seem big enough for 4 12's.
The trunks on those town cars are huge so if you have the space use it
Slot port it like the one shown or do two round ports up through the existing speaker holes.
Please invest in some sound deadening, don't be that guy.
 

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