Id greatly appreciate any info, advice or audio wisdom!!!

[JAY¿FKN¿VAL]

I currently own 2012 Nissan Armada Platinum w/premium amplified 12 speaker Bose system. I removed the underseat sub, left the mini Bose sub amp & wiring in place. Then removed all other bose speakers, ran all new speaker wire & replaced with Infinity kappa perfect, primus & reference.
I retained stock Bose HU for navigation, and rear dvd player. I originally had an Audison Bit Ten using Hi Lvl feeds coming "OUT? OF" (I believe.....)stock Bose amp
I wasn't able to find enough consistent or definitive info on the Bose amp pinouts or color code.
Amp is located above gas pedal behind the ECM. I went with left harness, POV looking at amp b4 removal. That plugs wire colors closest to info I found.
The sound quality was pretty decent with Bit Ten........but recently upgraded to a Bit One. I had hard time updating PC with current Bit One S.W., F.W. & also DRC & AC driver links update. After researching till eyes bled, im somewhat confident all installations correct..
So I decided to land same wires
Used w/bit 10 & into hi level plugs on Bit One. Now the sound is horrible.... muffled and most prominent coming from new 10" active subs in cargo area. Almost no sound from active door speakers from what I can tell...even after running configuration wizard setup. Picked hi lvl inputs & listed 1-4 as LF Full, RF Full, LR Full & RR Full w/sub on 5&6....I read channel 1 used as an auto on, I removed internal jumper & same thing, put it back in... also I heard to omit Chanel1?
Also the next few steps tried from lil info out there and nada...
1)I left 1st plug w/1-4 channels empty & started at 5th channel
2)disconnected fronts & rears, extended & used only the old sub feeds pre & post stock mini amp
3) hooked up LOC to pre & post mini stock amp feeds
ALL WITH NO SUCCESS!!! I'm open to any suggestions cuz I'm getting tired of hooking up unhooking, pulling wire, ripping out wire... over and over it's driving me ******* nuts!!!
I tried uninstalling reinstalling software but I'm not the best with computers so maybe it could be that I read somewhere that when you use D Equalization wizard if you keep getting Channel 1 input level too low it might be software related or firmware???
The only two times I ever attempted installing any stereo equipment in vehicle.
first time worked, now 2nd time upgrade very similar and can't get anywhere please anyone with any suggestions I'm open ears!!
BEFORE I PUNT A BIT 1 ACROSS THE STREET & RIP IT ALL OUT!!! so sorry for thr long novel posting.... just wanted to be detailed as possible of what I've done and attempted so far

Click to read more...

 

[1aespinoza 10+ year member]

BEFORE I PUNT A BIT 1 ACROSS THE STREET & RIP IT ALL OUT!!

First, LOL! I feel your pain.

muffled and most prominent coming from new 10" active subs in cargo area. Almost no sound from active door speakers from what I can tell...

Second, does this mean that some speakers are still connected to the OEM amplifier? If yes, then it may be that the radio is not sensing the correct resistance on the wires going to the BitOne, so it may not be activating those four outputs.
Does the BitOne have speaker resistance matching?

 

[Kickstand Premium Member]

Had a very similar with the 360.3
Banged my head against a wall for months trying to figure it out
Gave up on active and ripped it out
Went with a LC7i
Problem solved

 

[JAY¿FKN¿VAL]

First, LOL! I feel your pain.

Second, does this mean that some speakers are still connected to the OEM amplifier? If yes, then it may be that the radio is not sensing the correct resistance on the wires going to the BitOne, so it may not be activating those four outputs.
Does the BitOne have speaker resistance matching?

Hey..thanks for quik response!!! Yes still has speakers connected through stock bose amp & im not sure about resistance matching, I've read 90% of manual not entirely tho, Ill def check maybe I overlooked something that I thought didn't pertain to my issue...thanks!!!

Had a very similar with the 360.3
Banged my head against a wall for months trying to figure it out
Gave up on active and ripped it out
Went with a LC7i
Problem solved

I had lc6i just sold not too long ago, I liked it, but when I had previous Bit Ten working prior to the Bit One, the difference in SQ was very noticeable...much clearer & crisper highs..

I also picked up a 2nd Bit Ten, price was too good to refuse...
I've been contemplating 2 things..
1- since the Bit Ten worked & pretty well, wondering if I can use Bit Ten sorta like LOC and use its outputs to feed Bit one & I guess run them both through DRC? not sure if it will work or which device to connect DRC to?
2- I've also researched
(Till my eyes felt as if they were gonna bleed from staring at phone 2 long) on any info for running a dual set-up using 2 Bit Tens...I recall maybe 1 video on it but it was in Thai and no way to translate or CC...
LMFAO... 2 BIT TENS + 1 BIT ONE ÷ BY 1 SHORT FUSED PERSON TO BEGIN WITH × by
A TRUCK W/NO AUDIO = MY FKN BOILING OVER & SNAPPING POINT!!!! ( if any neighbors r watching, they shud have phones ready to video me....lol def will be good footage for YouTube & social media!!

 

[HardofWhoring]

The Bose system they installed in the GM/ Chevy / GMC vehicles, those speakers aren't rated at 4 ohm. They have an odd ohm rating so they can make em really cheap and small. The speakers are wired at I want to say 2.7ohm and wired in series. If you still have the speakers you pulled out, you can check the resistance with a multimeter. If you can get to the speaker wiring, you can check between the speakers, and should be able to tell easily if they are wired in series or parallel (how we would all do it).

If it's wired in series that might explain why you are missing channels, but not sure if I'm reading that right.

Those bose units, are best to leave em alone, or rip the entire thing out. That navigation makes the difference in replacing that head unit from $100-$200, to closer to about $1K.

If those old speakers are an odd ohm rating, you can find speakers at that rating, but the wattage is really low on your setup, and won't sound much better.

I think at this point, (if that's the problem), your best option is to find a way to add an amp so that you can wire it to those speakers you bought at 4 ohm.

OR did you add an amp, use the factory wiring, and it is still wired in series, and that's your problem?

 

[JAY¿FKN¿VAL]

The Bose system they installed in the GM/ Chevy / GMC vehicles, those speakers aren't rated at 4 ohm. They have an odd ohm rating so they can make em really cheap and small. The speakers are wired at I want to say 2.7ohm and wired in series. If you still have the speakers you pulled out, you can check the resistance with a multimeter. If you can get to the speaker wiring, you can check between the speakers, and should be able to tell easily if they are wired in series or parallel (how we would all do it).



If it's wired in series that might explain why you are missing channels, but not sure if I'm reading that right.



Those bose units, are best to leave em alone, or rip the entire thing out. That navigation makes the difference in replacing that head unit from $100-$200, to closer to about $1K.



If those old speakers are an odd ohm rating, you can find speakers at that rating, but the wattage is really low on your setup, and won't sound much better.



I think at this point, (if that's the problem), your best option is to find a way to add an amp so that you can wire it to those speakers you bought at 4 ohm.



OR did you add an amp, use the factory wiring, and it is still wired in series, and that's your problem?

I have all the Bose speakers still I was looking to sell them but that was also over 2 years ago they're still sitting in a drawer downstairs and they are weird impedance like you said 2.7 or 3.2 maybe. Realized after ripping a few of them out & replacing them with "normal" speakers, sound got worse, also I read somewhere(was few years ago so not sure) to go with infinitys, that they were closest to the Bose Oddball impedances. It's crazy how addictive car audio can get.... what started this all bout five years ago.. Bose subwoofer blew under front seat. I started out with an Amplified no name 10 inch sub & just ran it off of stock wiring... next thing you know..5 yrs later Im a few thousand Scharoles in, lol u figure it get better which it did until this last project...I've tried alot of devices, most didnt cooperate w/bose. Until decided trying the LC6i and finally made huge progress(just sold it lil over yr ago) when I stumbled upon DSP'S & bought my 1st Bit Ten which sounded PRETTY DAMN GOOD. I think at the time I paid a little under $400 used & loved it. Right after I got rid of the lc6i, I couldnt pass up another bit ten used for 175 and bought another. Compared to the Bose they sound amazing Crystal Clear highs... just not a lot of write ups, videos or especially anything in English for such old devices... this last adventure has pushed my limits for few weeks!! Been reading posts & I have very good feeling it's either something with where I'm pulling inputs from.... my truck had the 12 speaker system. I keep reading when you use a line out converter or DSP to take signals from your rear speakers but my truck had six rear speakers, two 6.5's with seperate tweeters in rear doors, & two 3" in tailgate door. Also front doors are two 6×9's w/seperate dashboard tweeters, and I just noticed coming out of the stock amp for some reason Only the driver's side door 6x9 is tied together with dash tweeter, not the passenger..
And if it's not something to do with that it's definitely the software/firmware/drc update that I recently had 2 install on another laptop. Such a shame bout 1st laptop, IT LEFT ME NO CHOICE...I was so aggravated weeks of trying to figure this **** out.....it would either freeze, turn off, not charge, disconnect from the bit one before finalizing, on top of my wife bitchin about me constantly "PLAYING" w/my truck & it's stereo, & at same time laptop decided to reboot... I fukin snapped & lost my **** & literally PUNTED IT A GOOD 20' DOWN THE DRIVEWAY!!! It was a very old one that a friend upgraded to make quicker and I can laugh about it now but I could have killed somebody when it happened.. I'm going to try uninstalling and then reinstalling software and all that nonsense to see if that helps and then if that doesn't I'm going to try hooking back up the bit 10 and use it's outputs to feed the bit one and if that don't work I'm going to figure out a way to run dual bit 10 DSP setup I'll keep you posted thank you for your help all of you guys really appreciate it I'm still open for suggestions too...from anybody else.....thanx

 

[Kickstand Premium Member]

I have a Bose system in my car as well
I think the problem is the Bose system is processed to begin with
When you add a second processor it causes problems
Also the Bose amps are all surround sound
So different channels have different functions when it comes to sound delivery
When I turned off everything related to surround sound from the HU it get better but not fixed
If you are set on keeping the Audison in the mix then I suggest replacing the HU and bypassing the factory amp all together
Use the low level inputs

 

[JAY¿FKN¿VAL]

I think I might of just figured out "THE" solution!!!!! I'm leaving the blowz I mean bose HU alone & fully functional so the rear dvd player remains fully functional... navi may not have working audio, I hate the audio navi directions anyway, cause it interrupts my tunes... (briefly)
‍♂I STILL HATE IT

I bought an android HU not too long ago(had other plans for it.) I also just found an unused tablet mount for our oliptical.. I had some small aluminum angle laying around and made some flanges on top and bottom of Android H.U. for mount to be able to attach & hold Android H.U.
I removed the center dash speaker & grill. I used some 5/16 thick HDPE black plastic & cut it to fit perfectly in void for grill & speaker, used original holes that mounted speaker down and ran a 5/16 tap through them to fasten down HDPE sheet.
Ran a 9 conductor multi wire down into dash behind bose HU underneath shifter & center console to a Wago terminal block mounted underneath driver seat.
I already had dummy switches mounted just underneath steering column for led lights, on board air & air ride controls. Have two unused toggles 1 for Ign wire to feed power to bose & 1 for the remote wire feed to new Android H.U.(Not 100% on that yet) just wanna make sure that I have to use turn the corresponding toggle switch for device I need...bose strictly for navi, back up cam if needed & rear dvd player for my 2 boys on long travel hockey tournament trips
And the android for music, and upfront movies/entertainment, hopefully no more issues!!!!!

 

[1aespinoza 10+ year member]

And the android for music, and upfront movies/entertainment, hopefully no more issues!!!!!

If you can't beat 'em, leave 'em. I now think the BitOne may be the issue. No matter how processed those OEM signals are, DSPs are designed to override them; especially one of such high quality.

 

[Grimmjoww]

OP you are correct on the odd ohm of the Infiniti speakers. Most of them are 3 ohm's, they claim this squeeze's the most out of a stock head unit because of small factory wiring. I was studying on them pretty hard last week.

 

[JAY¿FKN¿VAL]

Lol I'm a REALburnout. yet I always seem to remeber the isht that don't really mean isht!!! Somebody can tell me a 5 digit number & that my lifes depending on remembering it.....I give it bout 5 mins & my response would be... HUH, what number???

 

[HardofWhoring]

long shot, but one of those might be an analong signal, and the other a digital.

 

[Jimi77 5,000+ posts]

Have you tried Diyma. You'll probably find more guys familiar with the Bitone over there

 

[JAY¿FKN¿VAL]

How would i be able to tell? Finally got some info on stock bose pinouts & somewhat accurate color codes, but as for the stock bose amp under dashboard, mounted behind the ECM. I've researched till my eyes felt almost like they were bleeding!! Bose don't even wanna answer any questions, looked it up by P.N.# & S.N.# only found out where to purchase one.... it's been so long I pretty much gave up...and tried goin diff routes....

Have you tried Diyma. You'll probably find more guys familiar with the Bitone over there

No....I didnt, but Im definitely goin to now tho....THANKS!!!

 

[JAY¿FKN¿VAL]

OP you are correct on the odd ohm of the Infiniti speakers. Most of them are 3 ohm's, they claim this squeeze's the most out of a stock head unit because of small factory wiring. I was studying on them pretty hard last week.

I found the paper from when i was looking into compatible impedance's close to Bose HU...
Cleaning out basement, lol found this and realize how much $$$ I spent on
"TOYS & AUDIO ISHT"